ST1100 cooling system maintenance ?

JJames said:
The snow started falling here today , so since its a Honda - I'm looking hard for things to do. The ST is new to me and I want her to be ready , when summer comes back ! I've read that there can be certain problems with leaks in the cooling system - hoses under the carburators and these aluminum Elbow joints (2) on the hoses. Are those elbow joints something that should be changed regardless of how they look -since I'm going in there to have look ? Anything else that should be changed in there - regardless ? . Might be a lot to hope for , but I was hoping to have the parts before I start - so I can finish . It's a 2000 mod , 80 000 km. very clean , I haven't found any corrosion anywhere on the bike . I've only had one day of riding around - She didn't miss a beat and don't have any reason to suspect leaks , but want to make sure things look ok . Thanks for any tips on this matter !
Click to expand...
Replace the overflow hose going from the t-stat housing to the overflow bottle with a real coolant hose.
 
Last edited:
This is what it looks like . The elbow on hose 1 , looks a little green in the gills . I'll take off the hoses tomorrow . The insulators were fine , but maybe a little hard/stiff . Not sure how they are new . Seems the clamps get tightend til they bottom out. I could still move the clamps on the insulator , with a litte force. Lot of cruds , and penetrating oil in the bottom .Don't think anyone has been in there before me.

DSC_0244.JPG






DSC_0244.JPG
 
did you put the tape on the hoses? I suspect you did, but if not, then somebody else was in there before. Number 1 does appear to have a noticeable bulge at the clamp.
 
Yes it does , and yes I put the tape on
 
JJames said:
This is what it looks like . The elbow on hose 1 , looks a little green in the gills . I'll take off the hoses tomorrow . The insulators were fine , but maybe a little hard/stiff .
Click to expand...
Scale is definite sign of seepage, bulging hoses are done (aged inner layer leaking into braiding, causing outer layer to swell...), don't forget that notorious bypass line (despite the diameter would be inviting to do so, don't use standard fuel line as replacement, it'll see some significant high temperatures there...)
New isolators will eliminate air-leaks and make putting carb bank off/on so much easier... (I give them like 2~3 years...)
I clean all metal mating surfaces and stubs with abrasive fleece (the gray stuff, ferrite free(!), significantly softer then Scotchbrite...)
I further apply a smear of silicone-grease wherever rubber is meeting with metal, like O-rings or the hose-ends on their in- and outside, eases installation, the parts settle properly and the clips can close smoothly while tighten them, without causing wrinkles/cuts on the new coolant lines...
 
OK ! I have to drain the coolant later today and take all the hoses and fittings off. I've sendt a mail to the parts store here ,they should get back to me with price / stock. How about after market isolators ? Ok or nay ?
 
JJames said:
How about after market isolators ? Ok or nay ?
Click to expand...
I did come across some with power restriction/reduced inner diameter (apparently a German thing; lower insurance rates/vehicle tax if they strangle it below 100HP...)
Other then that... the rubber compound might not be as durable as the OEM...
 
ST1100Y said:
I did come across some with power restriction/reduced inner diameter (apparently a German thing; lower insurance rates/vehicle tax if they strangle it below 100HP...)
Other then that... the rubber compound might not be as durable as the OEM...
Click to expand...
I see your in Austria - where do buy your parts? I just found MSP , prices seem ok , and it's easy to just make a shopping list and push the button . Looks to me like it's oem parts too. I've use the local shop for small tings , but being in Norway ,I allways have to check up on there prices before ordering . But the local dealer has been fast and ok prices til now -Not typical Norwegian
 
When you put the new elbows on, those bolts holding them on require very little torque and if they have some corrosion on them, be careful as you don’t want to snap the bolt head off. I don’t know the torque spec off the top of my head but it’s got to be pretty low. When it’s time to put the carbs back on, they can be a little tough to position just right and ‘pop‘ them into place before tightening the clamps. I think I spent more time getting the carbs back on than anything else as I had a lot of trouble lining them up properly.
 
JJames said:
I see your in Austria - where do buy your parts?
Click to expand...
Depending on the batch/total cost vs shipping it can be via my accounts at David Silver, CMSNL, eBay (often find NOS parts there) or at my local Honda stealer...
I generally first ID the correct Honda part number on CMS and search for the most sensible total price... very rarely I use pattern parts, but the asian made 40A genny at eBay is a real bargain...
Some consumables, like spark plugs or bulbs, can be found at the German Louis store-chain (they had a winter sale on instrument bulbs, so I stocked up), they also carry some decent tools like the scissor jack, or ratchet kits...
 
I see there is some money for me to be saved going -international - and have "big" order. But for one or two items ,its the other way around.
Got to the bottom of things today (I hope) . Both of the main hoses connected to the elbow joints showed wear. The Elbow joints don't show any visible corrosion /pitting. I'll change every thing thats been recommended in this thread. Photo for todays workout -nothing spesial
DSC_0246.JPG
 
I did a similar job a few years ago on my ST11. My thread my help...

ST1100 Carb removal/rebuild | ST1100-Carb Talk

I've had a strong gas smell (off my ST1100, not me ;)) for over a year now. I could never find the leak, only maybe a little evidence of wetness on the rear of the carbs, at least what I could see. So, I finally decided to to pull the carbs and get this solved. With many thanks to Adam...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
My parts parts order came in , so time to put somethings together. BUT my thermostat does not close at room temp. Does anyone know what cars/alternative use the same thermostat ? With all the cool weather here, I don't think I want to put it back in , though the gauge needle showed 12 oclock in cold weather. Thanks !
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0285.JPG
    DSC_0285.JPG
    301.4 KB · Views: 8
I have a note - it may be wrong...
O.E.M. thermostat - Honda p/n 19300-MG9-000 ...80*C~84*C (176*F~180*F)
Honda Accord & the 1973-1980 Civic 1.2L, 1.3L & 1.5L, with a 180 degree rating. (THM010?)
Various Stant/Napa/Gates will also fit - Stant 35868/13868, NAPA THM 101/535080 etc.
O-ring (54x2mm) NAPA ATM TG2903
O-ring (54x2mm) Honda 91307-MBO-003
 
JJames said:
... though the gauge needle showed 12 oclock in cold weather. Thanks !
Click to expand...
Is that at idle sitting, or running down the road? It should normally run around the 1/4 point in clean air at speed, will hit 1/2 way (12 o'clock) in stop/go traffic and the fan comes on just past the 1/2 way point. When idling and stopped, i.e sitting in the garage, the fan should switch on/off every minute or two and temp shouldn't get more than 5/8 or so.
 
paulcb said:
Is that at idle sitting, or running down the road? It should normally run around the 1/4 point in clean air at speed, will hit 1/2 way (12 o'clock) in stop/go traffic and the fan comes on just past the 1/2 way point. When idling and stopped, i.e sitting in the garage, the fan should switch on/off every minute or two and temp shouldn't get more than 5/8 or so.
Click to expand...
I only rode it one day on it in 3-4 C . That was driving around ,at 35 -50 mph -not pressing the engine. It seemed to hold the temp somewhat - at slower speeds /idle, but I'm really not sure now. I never heard the fan kick in .
Thanks Roger , I'll get my friend at parts store to look in to it. I think the original Honda one is $120 ,I'll check on that too.
 
Interesting thread. That is also on my "to do list". Mine is a 2000, with very little mileage 32K km / 20K miles.
When I replace the coolant, last summer, I noticed a date code (99 11) on the lower radiator hose, just one month prior to the manufacture date of my bike (99 12).
So I guess all hoses are still the original ones on this bike.

20200708_131327.jpg

With such a low mileage, they had seen a low running time, but still... they are 21 years old now.
 
Last edited:
All my hoses and the timing belt on both bikes (94 and 00) looked like new when I swapped them out. It may have been unnecessary to change them out, but it’s always a gamble to keep pushing it. You might be lucky...or not. I ride with confidence that all the rubber bits are replaced.
 
I caved ,new Honda thermostat on the way - From -Norway ! She gonna be hot !
 
While I'm in there .New Timing belt installed this evening . One thing that I don't get is : Tightening the tensioner pulley .Clymer calls for cranking the engine 2 or 4 times _check marks -then moving it 3 teeth further - before tightening Tensioner Pulley bolt to 46nm . 3 teeth further, what is the point of that ?

DSC_0324.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom