St1100 Full Restoration Rebuild

Can you read any of the Vehicle Id. Number stamped into the side of the steering head of the frame?

Can you read any of the engine number that is more or less on the bottom of the crankcase?

An "ST1100A" is an ABS model, but an "ST1100 A" is a non-ABS model built for the American market that excludes California. In other words, the A in "ST1100 A" stands for American, not for ABS.

I think you said you have "the" shop manual. But there are three. The Clymer has a chapter on engine removal. The Haynes was done on a complete teardown of a pre-1996 ABS model, known as ABS I.

If you have a 1995 or earlier ABS model, I have one of those and also a non-ABS model to compare. I know most of the differences. And yes, the ABS I is pretty complex. It has the coolant reservoir moved off of the frame and onto an engine guard. It has metal rear brake lines, not rubber.

And if your frame is a post-1995 ABS one, known as ABS II, I would never attempt what you're doing. Those STs have non-standard brakes. For me, life is too short to mess with such.

I think you said "the" ST1100 was your dad's favorite. There's no such thing as the ST1100. Do you have any info at all on what version of ST1100 your dad had? What year? Did he mention ABS? (Many people like ST1100s just for the engine, drive train, and handling.)

Thanks, and good luck to you.
 
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DaveWooster said:
Can you read any of the Vehicle Id. Number stamped into the side of the steering head of the frame?

Can you read any of the engine number that is more or less on the bottom of the crankcase?

An "ST1100A" is an ABS model, but an "ST1100 A" is a non-ABS model built for the American market that excludes California. In other words, the A in "ST1100 A" stands for American, not for ABS.

I think you said you have "the" shop manual. But there are three. The Clymer has a chapter on engine removal. The Haynes was done on a complete teardown of a pre-1996 ABS model, known as ABS I.

If you have a 1995 or earlier ABS model, I have one of those and also a non-ABS model to compare. I know most of the differences. And yes, the ABS I is pretty complex. It has the coolant reservoir moved off of the frame and onto an engine guard. It has metal rear brake lines, not rubber.

And if your frame is a post-1995 one, I would never attempt what you're doing. Those STs have non-standard brakes. For me, life is too short to mess with such.

I think you said "the" ST1100 was your dad's favorite. There's no such thing as the ST1100. Do you have any info at all on what version of ST1100 your dad had? What year? Did he mention ABS? (Many people like ST1100s just for the engine, drive train, and handling.)

Thanks, and good luck to you.
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Hi Dave,

Thanks for your post and the information. I've been wondering why some A designations were attached to the model name and some had a space in between. Thanks very much for explaining the difference.


Yes, the VIN is clearly visible on the headstock of the frame. It is an ABS model and came with its ownership papers.

The running engine that came with the purchase of the frame and title is from a different bike altogether unfortunately. The serial number is also visible.

The original engine for the frame and title is still available but it threw its cambelt so there is valve and piston damage at the very least.

Is it worth me getting what's left of the original engine and getting new cylinder heads so that it can go back into its original frame? I do plan on a complete tear down to the last nut and bolt in whatever engine goes in the frame so it wouldn't necessarily be any extra work. Or would it?

For now, that build will be a very long term project due to the below:

I've decided to take the advice of others (far more knowledgeable and experienced than me) and acquire a more or less complete donor bike rather than having to source potentially hundreds of different components individually and at greater expense.

With regards to your questions about my Dad, he has vascular dementia and will no longer be concerned about ABS or non-ABS. But he is likely to recognise a complete ST1100 if I can get it done in time.

Any advice on the existing frame and/or my plan for a complete donor is sincerely appreciated.
 
Ok, so have got pretty much everything now to make a complete ST. Am going to see if it runs properly before disassembly.

Does anyone have any colour suggestions for the respray? Should I stick with a traditional colour or go crazy with Ninja green, etc?

Also, if anyone has a suggestion regarding the reassembly please let me know.
 
Phil1164 said:
Ok, so have got pretty much everything now to make a complete ST. Am going to see if it runs properly before disassembly.

Does anyone have any colour suggestions for the respray? Should I stick with a traditional colour or go crazy with Ninja green, etc?

Also, if anyone has a suggestion regarding the reassembly please let me know.
Click to expand...
One of the anniversary editions (25th or 50th) is a Gold. Very nice in my opinion.
Or... the original Silver is always good.
 
Not seen the Gold anniversary colour. Do you have a pic please?

Silver is timeless. Am also considering the traditional burgundy and British racing green.
 
Does anyone know what tools are needed to check the various engine tolerances beyond feeler gauges ?
 
That looks well smart!

Not too bright and blingy. Subtle and understated, just like me. Lol

Have recently acquired a genuine anniversary panel for the ST1100 which would complement the paint.
 
Major Project! Good luck with it.
I started with a complete 93 1100 non ABS this winter and at times get overwhelmed.
At the moment I am wrestling with whether or not to seal the voids in the Swing Arm fabrication
Prior to painting.
That is do I calk them shut or let well enough alone?
It is surprisingly rust free and I want to keep it that way.
Dose any one have an opinion on this as well as extending the inner fender, near the swing arm, with rubber or some other material?
 

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mr.m said:
Dose any one have an opinion on this as well as extending the inner fender, near the swing arm, with rubber or some other material?
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Bike Quip sells a swing arm protector. I installed them on my ST1100's and my ST1300.
They do a surprisingly good job of keeping all of the crap off of the swing arm, and preventing it from being blasted by the road grit as you ride.

I would clean the swing arm free of any rust and then apply some rust preventative paint/primer. I would install the below swing arm protector, which will keep the water and dirt away from it. I would think that some ventilation is a good thing so that any moisture that does get in there can dry out. Any wetness from the road that hits my swing arm is only water. I don't ride in conditions that are conducive to swing arm rusting like they do in the UK, so they might have a different opinion.

Swing Arm Protector ST1100
 
Well,

Didn't take long to find the first issue.

Battery freshly charged but no dash lights or power when the key is turned.

It doesn't appear to have had the red wire bypass done so my guess is that part of the wiring harness is fried.

After fuse checks can anyone suggest potential causes or what to look for please?
 
mr.m said:
Major Project! Good luck with it.
I started with a complete 93 1100 non ABS this winter and at times get overwhelmed.
At the moment I am wrestling with whether or not to seal the voids in the Swing Arm fabrication
Prior to painting.
That is do I calk them shut or let well enough alone?
It is surprisingly rust free and I want to keep it that way.
Dose any one have an opinion on this as well as extending the inner fender, near the swing arm, with rubber or some other material?
Click to expand...
Waxoil the cavities, you know it makes sense.
Upt'North.
 
Phil1164 said:
Well,

Didn't take long to find the first issue.

Battery freshly charged but no dash lights or power when the key is turned.

It doesn't appear to have had the red wire bypass done so my guess is that part of the wiring harness is fried.

After fuse checks can anyone suggest potential causes or what to look for please?
Click to expand...
Phil, you're checking the right stuff but does the kill switch kill the lights? If it does, is it "on"?
Upt'North.
 
Upt' North said:
Phil, you're checking the right stuff but does the kill switch kill the lights? If it does, is it "on"?
Upt'North.
Click to expand...
There's no headlamp with the bike but have one in a box with some other bits n bobs. Will connect it up and let you know.
 
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