not familiar with a m/g but there had to be some power or it had a magneto ignition.I once started my Guzzi by bump starting it. Back in the good ole days () headlights were optional during daylight and the bike, as heavy as it was to push, started right up.
ST1100 - jump starting
- Thread starter myst1100
- Start date
DJDixon
Site Supporter
The problem with jumping a motorcycle battery from a car or truck isn't a voltage issue - it's an amperage issue. If the battery is extremely flat (won't even crank the bike, very dim headlights) the donating system can provide far too much amperage (in a very low battery, it can be seen by the donor as a massive load) and the resulting inrush current can exceed the capacity of the dead battery to absorb it. Next step - boom (and yes, as an electrician I have seen this happen, and had to fix the results).
This is why the donor vehicle shouldn't be running if it has a higher current availability than the recipient system (most car systems have 100+ amps available!). I carry jumper cables that are sized for a motorcycle, the smaller cables help to limit the amount of current flow available. If my battery goes so flat I have no cranking or headlights, I won't jump it - I'll either have the bike towed home or buy a replacement battery, once I fix the reason it's dead, of course!!
This is why the donor vehicle shouldn't be running if it has a higher current availability than the recipient system (most car systems have 100+ amps available!). I carry jumper cables that are sized for a motorcycle, the smaller cables help to limit the amount of current flow available. If my battery goes so flat I have no cranking or headlights, I won't jump it - I'll either have the bike towed home or buy a replacement battery, once I fix the reason it's dead, of course!!
not exactly true , a battery creates hydrogen gas. A battery can be rated as hi as 10000 cca older starters took 160 amps to crank an engine over. and what happens to cable that do do meet the needs of current flow, they get hot and can melt. Try using wires rated for a 10 amp in a 25 amp light circuit , The lights will not be dimmer, restricting the flow but the wires will get hot or melt. see https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-aug-26-hw-3902-story.html
Last edited:
No magneto or generator, just a three phase alternator. The Italians may make quirky vehicles, but they are not that far behind the times. I don't think I have ever had a completely dead battery. One cell might have been gone in a battery years ago, but most just hover around 9 or 10 volts, giving me a click of the starter relay but not enough power left to turn the starter.
I
I have a connector permanently wired for my trickle charger and have used the connection to jump start. Don't crank too long though, could melt the wires.
Attachments
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
I found the BAAS BS11/BS12 system solid enough for boost starting (receiving and donating), as well as charging/maintaining of course.
Can even be integrated into the tailcone for easy access:
Dunno if that link displays properly over there
Can even be integrated into the tailcone for easy access:
Dunno if that link displays properly over there
BAAS BS103 STARTSYSTEM Set (BS11+BS12): Amazon.de: Auto
BAAS BS103 STARTSYSTEM Set (BS11+BS12): Amazon.de: Auto
www.amazon.de
Attachments
That's pretty cool, I'm ordering one to see if I can do a clean install with it.
Thanks to everyones suggestions and input.
Here's a couple of old vids of a similar BAAS Kit BS102 but the BS103 above has a more appropriate socket by my reckoning and may be newer kit.
I looking into ordering form Deutschland but the back and forth with Google Translate got me down. It looks to be about $35 plus duty. I can't find a similar DIY plug/socket combo. I like the panel mount of the BS103 kit.
I also found it on ebay.
Baas start system "BS103" consisting of jump start cables BS12 and Board Socket BS | eBay
BAAS Startsystem "BS103" bestehend aus Starthilfekabel BS12 und Bordsteckdose BS11.
www.ebay.com
Last edited:
Yikes! Shipping cost is greater than the item.
Makes an even better case for a couple of EC5 connectors and a few bits of wire.
Not too bad from the UK amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/BAAS%AE-BS103-Start-System-BS11-BS12)
11 Pounds to California
The purpose of (4) is usually a good source of controversy !
It is often cited as being to minimise the possibility of a spark igniting hydrogen coming from the battery. Seeing as its most likely the drained battery that is possibly emitting hydrogen (because its internal resistance is high and its just produced a load of heat trying to start the engine), it would be safer to do the final connection on the donor end because that is likely to be a fully charged battery with low internal resistance. (Internal resistance being linked to SoC and condition and temp ..)
The main benefit though: is that it takes a chunk of cable resistance out of the circuit, the starter motor returns through the engine block and by connecting the negative directly to the engine block it eliminates the resistance of the block to frame (to chassis on car) and then to battery negative terminal.
If the negative cable is connected to a flimsy connection point, then that flimsy connection point will have to carry the full starting current so best to choose location carefully !
Last edited:
This got me thinking, with one of these kits where is the best place to connect the cables. For lowest I2R loss during boost (jump) starting the red would be at the solenoid and the black at the starter to engine mounting bolt.
For trickle charging it would be directly to the battery terminals so that the charger gets the most accurate voltage reading. Now with trickle maintaining it wouldn't really matter but for full on max current charging the battery wouldn't receive full charge.
In reality none of this really matters, it works either way but as a purest !!!
I am a big user of Anderson Powerpole connectors especially in wet conditions, I didnt realise the EC5 could handle such high currents but from the forums it appears they do (although for the life of me I could not find a proper specification sheet )
120 amps from what I recall. That is a full-time rating. For the amount of time it takes to start a bike, it doesn't get warm to the touch. The handy thing is that it matches the termination used on lots of lithium jump batteries. Thus you can use the port to connect either. The lithium jump battery can be dead when you need it as well. I have a friend who carried one on his GS for several years not thinking that the charge needed to be refreshed occasionally. Mine is probably dead now too. I should go check.
Aha, I hadn't realised that, very handy
Attachments
Does somebody make an EC5 with a cap similar to the PowerPole connector above? I've been looking and haven't found any.
I don't know of any. All that I have seen are inline connectors. They are widely used in the remote control hobby. Those kinds of outlets might have a bulkhead / firewall type connector. I just leave a pigtail like you would do with an SAE. Anderson Powerpoles same strategy.
