ST1100 Motor Pull / Transmission Swap

Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Messages
38
Location
Gilroy, CA
Bike
ST1300
STOC #
3593
I wanted to document the replacement of the transmission on my 1995 ST1100. I have started a public photo album in my profile to store all of the pictures for all to view. I reciently had two back surgeries the last was a fusion of L5S1. so I needed to enlist the help of my good friend John (Fortuite1) and my cousin Bubba to pull the engine. John did all of the prep work of draining the fluids, pulling the radiator, pulling the exhaust system and tupperware and air filter housing. Prior to pulling the motor we also remved the fuel tank and all of the wires and brackets per the Honda service manual in section 7-3. I will try to answer any and all questions to the best of my abuility. I will be updating this post as we procede with the transmission swap. the pictures below show the motor being pulled.

Motor Pull 1.jpg

Motor Pull 2.jpg

Motor pull 3.jpg
 
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Just wow...but gotta ask-how does the circular saw figure into all of this (pic#3)??
 
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Valve ajustment...... No, just kidding. John was cutting wood to support the engine on the stand. We strapped the motor to the stand to allow us to clean and check the valves.

Motor Out 1.jpg

Motor Out 12.jpg

Motor Out 19.jpg
 
Good job, Todd. John is great help,,, looks like Bubba is right in there too. Gotta luv John's garage.

Keep'em coming.
 
OK guys. I work in the propane business and do you know how DANGEROUS it is to have a propane bottle (pic #2 & 3) in the garage??????? And especially that close to the heater!!!!!!! Just sayin. You know the song "I wanna go to heaven but don't want to go today"???

But glad ya got the motor out.
 
OK guys. I work in the propane business and do you know how DANGEROUS it is to have a propane bottle (pic #2 & 3) in the garage??????? And especially that close to the heater!!!!!!! Just sayin. You know the song "I wanna go to heaven but don't want to go today"???

But glad ya got the motor out.

Dooly noted sir. We removed the 1100 gas tank and moved it outdoors (the day before) prior to firing up the heaters. The tall heater with the radical flame inside has about a six foot hose attached and was some distance from the flame. We also have a ten foot ceiling and plenty of air volume to dissapate any residual fumes around the work areas.
In photos 2 & 3 ...The heater was off at that point and the garage door was fully open. We used the big heater (pictured) to knock the chill off in the garage in the morning hours , then switched to a smaller unit later.

Our shop rags get moved outdoors as well if any solvents are used in the cleaning process, and we have an outdoor solvent sink as well.
Thanks for you safety concerns and we will keep safety in the shop at the forefront during this project and at our upcoming tech event here.
 
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Is this the $500.00 bike you stole from me? LOL

If it is, would you have had the great volunteer team we have to accomplish this restoration project? This project brought three of us many hours of learning experience, as well as an element of camaraderie during those shop hours. I myself have learned a huge amount of knowledge of the mechanical workings of the ST.

Are you planning to attend the Tech Event this month?
Hope to see you there !
 
I may come down for the day. I always like to meet the ST folks. I won't need any repairs but I can give lots of armchair advice. LOL

If it is, would you have had the great volunteer team we have to accomplish this restoration project? This project brought three of us many hours of learning experience, as well as an element of camaraderie during those shop hours. I myself have learned a huge amount of knowledge of the mechanical workings of the ST.

Are you planning to attend the Tech Event this month?
Hope to see you there !
 
I may come down for the day. I always like to meet the ST folks. I won't need any repairs but I can give lots of armchair advice. LOL

Just having you there is one of the best reasons we held this event again. I think I convinced my BMW rider friend to come down this year from Campbell. I'm sure he will have fun mingling with the ST crowd.
 
Steering the 1100 motor back into the frame was a little tricky, however using a bike lift with a plywood platform and with the assistance of the frame/bike being suspended by a strap to a cross bar on the high ceiling it made the chore much easier. Here are a few shots of that procedure.
The key points were to have the engine tited slightly entering the frame zone, then clear the left side frame/engine mount (photo's two and three) and finally clearing the upper belt pulley with the right side frame. Slow well thought out moves will get the engine into position without scratching the frame or damaging components doing so. First stop is getting it lined up to slide the long bottom through bolt through the frame and engine.
 

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Following the bottom through bolt install, the top motor mounts are loosely threaded into place, as well as the side motor mounts and left frame rail.

In the first photo the engine (timing belt pulley housing) had not cleared the right side side upper frame rail yet, enough to move the engine rearward and to tilt back into the proper level position.
The use of the strap to two mount points (front and rear) on the frame allowed us to adjust frame position tilt forward and aft, as well as side to side pitch without worry of loosing control or tip over.
 

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Once all the motor mount brackets & bolts have been installed the drive shaft can now be pushed forward in the swingarm sleeve, (where it was laying),and reunited with the transmission spline. Ensure the rubber boot is slipped fully onto the transmission at this joint, to ensure road grime stays out of the ujoint area.
Adding the tapered gear cone and spline (separate part from the drive shaft) to the back end of the drive shaft the "pumpkin" can now be bolted to the right swing arm end with four bolts. The rear wheel was now installed, (and spun) to insure full contact from engine to wheel, at all drive shaft points. Adding the shifter lever helps at this point also. New brass exhaust rings are placed in the exhaust ports, or should I say "balanced" on top of each header flange, which is quite tricky as they are smaller diameter than the port before being flattened by the header bolts. Good idea to have two people working these brass squash gaskets from each side. The stainless exhaust headers are now bolted into place. Again it was a pleasure doing these procedures with the entire bike elevated and free of lifts from below.
 

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Outstanding!

That is one CLEAN ST1100!!!

BeST, John

It wasn't so clean when we first rolled that 1100 into the garage John. The previous owner had ridden that for nearly 70k miles without doing much maintenance at all, besides change oil.
It took several sessions of Engine Brite and paint brushes just to clear the engine and frame of black oily film. The wheels had so much brake dust on them we thought they were black. Fortunately being a California bike there is little rust anywhere and the frame paint is in excellent shape. We assume the original transmission was damaged from a slide on the left side (shifter). Note the ground down left tip over bar. Later on we will open that trans and see if it can be fixed, but for now the donor trans looks like a winner. All air and water hoses will be replaced so a new owner won't have to worry about any of those leaking. The valve clearances have been checked and adjusted as well. I'd like to see this bike sell to someone we know locally so we can see the bike we rebuilt often, as well as ride with that person.
If anyone has interest in this bike when it is finished, keep us in mind. It should prove to be a solid machine.
 
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