Article [13] ST1300 - Brake Maintenance - Avoiding the Pitfalls

I don't use Copper grease any more. I use Ceratec. Copper grease is fine - but there were suggestions - from someone I know who tests brakes for a living - that the copper in the grease may cause galvanic corrosion - ie the copper in the grease reacts with the different metals that it is in contact with which causes some oxidation to occur.

I have to say that I've never experienced this. (Nor have I seen it when using copper banjo bolt washers). But the Ceratec grease is specially formulated for use on backing plates. Curiously, the Honda manual does not specify anything to use, and neither of my brand new ST1300s have had any grease applied to the brake pads.

Never use grease to clean the pistons. Mineral or petroleum based greases swell the rubber seals, rendering them pretty useless for sealing anything. Silicone greases are usually Ok in these situations - but you have to have something that isn't going to melt and get onto the disc surface.

When the pistons are extended, then I will smear the exposed part with rubber grease to protect them from the salty crud on our roads. This is kind to the seals (not that it is going to get near to them), it doesn't attract crud as is often claimed, but any that gets on it sticks. Neverthless it is captured in a soft grease and it cleans off very easily leaving the piston surface shiny. Its not as if the pistons are going to be pushed back into the seals at any time in that state. The only times I have never not applied rubber grease to the pistons, the expose surface of the piston has been covered in a thin layer road dust and it has set like concrete. This is much more difficult to remove and doesn't always leave a shiny surface underneath it. Maybe that is a UK thing.

Back of pads - copper grease/ Ceratec / Maybe Moly paste. These are subject to high heat and high pressure so generally a silicone based product is not as suitable - although Honda recommended the Silicone based M77 Moly grease as a suitable alternative to the M60 paste for a couple of their cars for the back of brake pads.
Metal retainer clip - TB 1521 adhesive, then a smear of copper grease or moly paste for the bronzed backing plate of the pads to slide smoothly.
Slider pins - rubber grease / Silicone grease - they fit inside rubber boots, so something that isn't going to damage the rubber. ie not mineral oil based or petroleum.
Pin Hanger(Pad Pin?) - Copper grease / moly paste / ceratec. Not sure about rubber grease here. Purpose is to enable pads to move and to keep it from becoming corroded.

The workshop manual makes no mention of securing the chrome retainer clip in the instruction pages, but there is mention of using Threebond 1521 glue for the clip in the pages of tables at the start of the manual:

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Threebond 1521 is:
https://threebond-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/1500_series_large.jpg
TB1521C is a multi-purpose, high strength, chloroprene rubber adhesive. It is suitable for bonding a wide range of substrates including metals, rubbers and plastics, gives high initial bond strength and elasticity after setting. TB1521C is widely used in the automotive and allied industries where its viscosity makes it ideal for bonding weatherstrip rubber. It has an operating temperature of between -40 and +100 deg C


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I think that its purpose is to provide a flexible cushion between the clip and the bracket, to stop it vibrating and grinding away the recess in the caliper Here is a photo from my first 1300 where the rear caliper has done just that. Note the cap above the clip. Note the position of the tab in relation to that rectangular shaped raised part of the casting. These brakes were working fine no symptoms presenting themselves - but it may not have taken too long for problems to arise.

I decided that any strong, flexible adhesive for metal that could cope with heat up to 100 deg C would be OK.
I went on a hunt and found UHU Max Extreme Repair. I've attached the pdf of the spec. It seems to call itself Max Repair Power now. Check on Amazon, see if it is available in USA. Both of my bikes were supplied brand new without glue applied.
 

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No, I'm only using the brake fluid with a 'watusi' rag(the back drying thing) on the pistons. Only mention the grease 'cuz you talked about it in an earlier post. Igofar educated me how maintenance in the UK(with the moisture, rain, etc) may not apply in the dry climate I live in(rust? what's that?).

The retaining clip kind of fell out as I pulled the caliper apart. Didn't really think anything of it till I read about the adhesive and Larry saying that shouldn't happen.

I'm going to poke around inside the slider pin sockets(?) with a q-tip just to see how much gunk is in there. The caliper did not pull apart that easy, even though the slider pins were dry.

Thanks for clarifying all that.

Between you and Igofar I have a better idea what to look at/for in the caliper.
Cheers!
 
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Scary stuff... wonder how long it'd take the steel pad backing plate to wear through that soft alu bracket...

Re glue: It would probably also help stop corrosion from forming between the alu bracket and stainless clip. Here in sunny Wales, I found my rear pads were sticking as corrosion had pushed the clip out, squeezing the pads backwards against the pin, preventing them from retracting easily... Cleaning that out and glueing the clip back (thanks for finding/mentioning the adhesive John!) seems to have solved that...
 
mjc506 said:
Cleaning that out and glueing the clip back (thanks for finding/mentioning the adhesive John!) seems to have solved that...
Click to expand...
I believe that it is the kind of adhesive that it the key - ie a flexible rubber, or flexible polymer that keeps the clip in place but also adds a cushion to prevent small movements of the clip from grinding the bracket away.
​
Actually - the discovery of the glue in the manual is relatively recent (I know it was a modification that I added to the Avoid the Pitfalls article when I found out about it). It always seemed odd to me that a 'loose' piece of metal should be placed against soft alloy. I used to rub moly paste into the bracket part before I found out about the glue - taking care not to leave any surplus moly, it is very close the the brake disk surface. I reckoned if it was good enough for pad backing plates .....​
 
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Indeed, anything too rigid will just break and be no help anyway.

Before I had the caliper and bracket apart, I had assumed that the clip (or rather, its' 'seat') would be very worn... finding a replacement bracket in the UK is 'tricky' at the moment, so I had concerns I'd be repairing it by brazing the clip to the bracket at filling the worn gap. Fortunately there appeared to be no wear, and the Uhu glue mentioned was perfectly sufficient :-)
 
Here's a lessons learned from my front master cylinder rebuild:

Screenshot 2026-01-18 at 4.50.59 PM.png

Picture is of ST1300A6 front brake master cylinder I rebuilt. Something was wrong. Symptom was front brakes would not release, then would heat up and lock. Cause was I installed the push rod backwards, fat end to piston. OOOPS!!! Result was when assembled, push rod would not fully seat in piston. This caused piston to be partially depressed with brake lever released. This blocked the compensation port, preventing the ability for fluid to return to the master cylinder. After a few brake applications, front brake would lock up. Solution was to reverse the push rod and install it correctly allowing it to seat further into the piston. This shortened the piston-pushrod length, allowing the piston to fully retract. This unblocked the compensation port, releasing fluid pressure, thus releasing the front pads, and resolving the issue. I hope this helps other avoid this mistake, and sort things if you do. /r B
 
Yes, that would do it ! And maybe that was the cause - but I remember clearly that the shape either side of the boot seal was simple straight rod with rounded end. But it was an aftermarket part. It looked symmetrical, not like that OEM part in your photo. I have never replaced this part myself on the ST1300.

That is a good addition to this little story - thank you @eyrepb .
 
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eyrepb said:
Here's a lessons learned from my front master cylinder rebuild:

Screenshot 2026-01-18 at 4.50.59 PM.png

Picture is of ST1300A6 front brake master cylinder I rebuilt. Something was wrong. Symptom was front brakes would not release, then would heat up and lock. Cause was I installed the push rod backwards, fat end to piston. OOOPS!!! Result was when assembled, push rod would not fully seat in piston. This caused piston to be partially depressed with brake lever released. This blocked the compensation port, preventing the ability for fluid to return to the master cylinder. After a few brake applications, front brake would lock up. Solution was to reverse the push rod and install it correctly allowing it to seat further into the piston. This shortened the piston-pushrod length, allowing the piston to fully retract. This unblocked the compensation port, releasing fluid pressure, thus releasing the front pads, and resolving the issue. I hope this helps other avoid this mistake, and sort things if you do. /r B
Click to expand...
Where is the little deflector spoon that sits in the master cylinder housing?
I don’t see it in your housing, or your laid out parts picture?
 
eyrepb said:
Here's a lessons learned from my front master cylinder rebuild:

Screenshot 2026-01-18 at 4.50.59 PM.png

Picture is of ST1300A6 front brake master cylinder I rebuilt. Something was wrong. Symptom was front brakes would not release, then would heat up and lock. Cause was I installed the push rod backwards, fat end to piston. OOOPS!!! Result was when assembled, push rod would not fully seat in piston. This caused piston to be partially depressed with brake lever released. This blocked the compensation port, preventing the ability for fluid to return to the master cylinder. After a few brake applications, front brake would lock up. Solution was to reverse the push rod and install it correctly allowing it to seat further into the piston. This shortened the piston-pushrod length, allowing the piston to fully retract. This unblocked the compensation port, releasing fluid pressure, thus releasing the front pads, and resolving the issue. I hope this helps other avoid this mistake, and sort things if you do. /r B
Click to expand...

After reassembling, I just completed a very successful brake system bleed to my ST1300A6. I’ve read through several frustrating experiences and saw several different preferences to perform the well documented bleeding procedure on this forum. My sincere thanks to all who prepared and shared all the info articles, and experience. I rounded up a set of tools for the job and gave it yet another go. I was very happy with my results, and am sharing what worked well for me.

I bought a Mityvac vacuum tool. I opted for the Silverline professional kit. Money well spent. I wanted an American quality-built tool, with seal spares and accessories available. I settled on the MV8500. It has a quality built, solid feeling metal housing. It can pull a sustained 30 inHg vacuum.

Mityvac MV8500
MFR info: https://www.skf.com/mityvac/products/hand-vacuum-pressure-pumps/hand-pump-kits/mv8500

SOURCE: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITM...cuum/dp/B0002SQYUA?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

User Manual
https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api...edium/0901d196809b1436_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

Pump seal rebuild kit
https://www.jbtools.com/mityvac-mvm...892&gbraid=0AAAAADsRHpNyuQHXBfXupNyPfLB6UoQ_0

Replacement catch bottle
Mityvac 4.5 oz. Fluid Reservoir Kit For Mityvac Vacuum Pressure Pump (MVA6910)$6.58JBTools.com(39)

Complete Mityvac catalog
https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api...edium/0901d196809a1d86_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

Mityvac history
https://www.skf.com/mityvac/about-mityvac/history

I installed a Motionpro one way bleeder check valve in the line
www.cyclegear.com

Motion Pro Hydraulic Brake Bleeder - Cycle Gear

Pick up your Motion Pro Hydraulic Brake Bleeder for $15.99 today. Shop Cycle Gear for our 30-day best price guarantee & 90-day hassle free returns.
www.cyclegear.com www.cyclegear.com

I used 1/4”ID, 3/8 OD plastic tubing for the circuit


I zip-tied all hose joints. There are also metal spring clamps available.

I set up a rolling adjustable height work table that I can move around the bike with tools, brake fluid, towels, etc.

Adjustable bedside table
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...letop?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22805635343

I installed an inverted ratchet clamp as a catch bottle tree.
Ratchet Bar Clamp
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-62123.html

I used a plastic squeeze bottle to dispense new brake fluid to the reservoirs to reduce spillage. These also work to suck out old fluid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LS6HG8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Here’s some pix. I hope this helps someone.
/r
B

tempImageInoD7Y.pngtempImageZQvCxZ.pngtempImage8puRsr.png
 
I think so, I really like the idea of using the clamp, the inline one way valve on the bleed tubing is a smart idea for 1 person bleeding.

I am curious if they used the pressure (vs vacuum) feature of that hand pump to push the fluid from the master cylinder and how well that worked.
 
You would have gotten a better bleed without using the vacuum.
I’ve shown folks at many tech events, by allowing them to use a vacuum, claiming victory, then re-bled the system with just a check valve, by hand, and got a whole bunch more air out of the system.
 
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