Looking to replace OEM clutch line to braided line,a straight shot so to speak or better to stay with stock? Line is 17 years old time to go.
ST1300 Clutch Line
- Thread starter Russ WIlson
- Start date
STumped
Because I usually am . . . .
A few years back, mine burst at the top near the master. Very irritating that the clutch line is ONE CONTINUOUS line rather than segments! It is a royal pain in the butt to replace it. It is, by far, the most I have had my bike apart to date.
If you decide to replace it, I would recommend that you get very familiar with all the steps in the service manual and make sure that you want to undertake that much disassembly. It took me a full day to get everything apart and the better part of next day to get it all back together.
I'm not at home right now so I don't have access to my photos but I will see if I can find a few pics to post later tonight when I get back home.
If you decide to replace it, I would recommend that you get very familiar with all the steps in the service manual and make sure that you want to undertake that much disassembly. It took me a full day to get everything apart and the better part of next day to get it all back together.
I'm not at home right now so I don't have access to my photos but I will see if I can find a few pics to post later tonight when I get back home.
OP
OP
Looking to replace OEM clutch line to braided line,a straight shot so to speak or better to stay with stock? Line is 17 years old time to go.
Ok thanks I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder,still having problems once bike is warmed up clutch lever looses pressure and I replaced the slave cylinder about 12000 miles ago. Thinking the rubber part of line is expanding not sure what else it can be.
STumped
Because I usually am . . . .
That is exactly how mine started. The clutch kept disengaging less and less. It was hard to shift when not moving. I would bleed it and it still continued. I changed out the master (thinking the seals were going bad) and it continued. Once day, I squeezed the clutch and all of a sudden all resistance was gone and the lever went straight back to the handgrip. I looked down and saw a puddle of brake (clutch) fluid on the ground!
Just to be sure though, if you haven't already, make sure to do a thorough flush of the line with new fluid.
I look for those pics when I get home tonight.
STumped
Because I usually am . . . .
OP
OP
Wow just to replace the one clutch line..holy crapo? Sitting on the bike it looks like all that needs to come off is the left cowling which is not a problem pulled it several times. Right now its at a local shop "I gave up" I rebuilt the master and still had same problem with lever loosing pressure after bike warms up but also like a popping sound when I pulled in the lever in? I even took a video of the rebuild and I showed the mechanic its a pretty simple job. They are going to rebuild the master with Honda OEM seal kit just to make sure on their end actually he indicated in his 17 years as mechanic he has never seen this occur. They also bled the clutch as I have many times. I think I'm wasting my money with them but we shall see. But overall I've had to put very little money into this bike just normal maintenance.
Shawn K
Professional Cat Confuser
For what it's worth, I faced a similar situation with my old Gold Wing. 80% of the OEM line was a model-specific molded steel line like the ST. I didn't bother with any of that nonsense. Instead, I called HEL Performance and ordered a braided stainless steel line long enough to snake it where I needed it.
Yes, it took a little time for me to measure (I used a string and then measured the string), and yes, I ended up having a line that was a couple inches longer than it needed to be. But it was WAY easier to deal with that than it would have been to disassemble half the bike to replace the OEM line.
If I were in your position, that's what I would be doing. There's nothing sacrosanct about replacing everything with stock in this instance.
Yes, it took a little time for me to measure (I used a string and then measured the string), and yes, I ended up having a line that was a couple inches longer than it needed to be. But it was WAY easier to deal with that than it would have been to disassemble half the bike to replace the OEM line.
If I were in your position, that's what I would be doing. There's nothing sacrosanct about replacing everything with stock in this instance.
OP
OP
I was thinking the same about snaking it to where it needs to end up.
STumped
Because I usually am . . . .
Yup! Like I said, major pain in the butt! You have to remove the lower fuel tank to get to the connection point at the back of the engine and everything else has to come off first in order to get to the lower fuel tank. If your shop does it they will charge you an arm and a leg. If you take your time and follow the steps in the service manual it is not really all that difficult. It just take A LOT of time.
I am a big fan of Honda engineering but I think they really goofed this one up. How hard would it have been to make a connection on the left side of the bike to mate the flexible part of the clutch line to the rigid part? That way, all you would have to do is remove the left cowl and disconnect the line, connect new line and the button it back up again.
OP
OP
That is exactly how mine started. The clutch kept disengaging less and less. It was hard to shift when not moving. I would bleed it and it still continued. I changed out the master (thinking the seals were going bad) and it continued. Once day, I squeezed the clutch and all of a sudden all resistance was gone and the lever went straight back to the handgrip. I looked down and saw a puddle of brake (clutch) fluid on the ground!
Just to be sure though, if you haven't already, make sure to do a thorough flush of the line with new fluid.
I look for those pics when I get home tonight.
So talked to a Honda shop today for $73.00 they can have a SS braided line custom made plus around 3 hours shop labor $400.00 I have to remove both side covers "cowlings" this might be the most logical option. They remove the clutch line for measurement purposes and send to hydraulic shop that they use.
I haven't seen any reference to the clutch slave. 
These have a tendency to go bad, due to lack of maintenance. And even if you "flush" the clutch line, getting all of the old fluid out of the clutch slave requires several flushes.
With replacing the line, you might ask them to replace the clutch slave at this time.
These have a tendency to go bad, due to lack of maintenance. And even if you "flush" the clutch line, getting all of the old fluid out of the clutch slave requires several flushes.
With replacing the line, you might ask them to replace the clutch slave at this time.
OP
OP
Yes I was thinking the same but I just had it replaced 12000 miles ago.I haven't seen any reference to the clutch slave.
These have a tendency to go bad, due to lack of maintenance. And even if you "flush" the clutch line, getting all of the old fluid out of the clutch slave requires several flushes.
With replacing the line, you might ask them to replace the clutch slave at this time.
Did a shop replace it? Are you sure they did a good job? I'd stick my head underneath the backside of the engine and check the weep hole for signs of leakage.
A lot of times the shop(s) don't replace the inner seal, or clean up the inside of the bore because it takes too long, and just shove a new unit in place. The rubber center seal often fails rather quickly when this is done.
A lot of times the shop(s) don't replace the inner seal, or clean up the inside of the bore because it takes too long, and just shove a new unit in place. The rubber center seal often fails rather quickly when this is done.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
I can't understand why the bike needs to be stripped down so thoroughly. Obviously I'm wrong in what I'm thinking. I was under the impression that the clutch line runs from the handlebar down and along the left side to the slave cylinder down low on the left side of the motor. What am I missing?
OP
OP
No leakage from slave that was replaced 12000 miles ago, prior to that it was leaking. No fluid loss at all but as bike gets hot rubber lines in clutch line might be compromised and or expanding due to age. Clutch lever is great when cold but as bike gets hot I loose clutch resistance and have to pump the lever to build up pressure to shift into gear.
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Shawn K
Professional Cat Confuser
I don't mean to ask the obvious, but when was the last time that you bled the system with all new fluid? And how did you bleed it?
You said you've done it "many times", but when was the most recent?
Like Shawn asked...when was the last time you bled the system?
Have you rebuilt the clutch master cylinder at the lever?
When was the last time you did an oil change? Is your engine running hot cooking stuff?
Have you rebuilt the clutch master cylinder at the lever?
When was the last time you did an oil change? Is your engine running hot cooking stuff?
I've been designing machinery and vehicles my entire career and while I do love the way my ST1300 looks and works, it is absolutely one of the least serviceable vehicle designs I have seen since they invented mid-engined cars (come on down Fiero, Porsche and Toyota MR2).
Nearly everything you do or need to replace in routine servicing requires the removal of a multitude of pieces of expensive and fragile plastic, the removal of four other components and a head-scratching array of wires and hoses. Even checking the engine oil is a PITA - you have get right down into the dirt and peer in past hot exhaust pipes at a crummy little dark glass which is invariably covered in road grime. Adding oil requires the removal of not one, but TWO silly ceremonial covers - at least one of which is the verge of breaking throughout the process (or being stepped on).
It simply does not have to be this way - every design starts with a clean sheet of paper and every engine starts with good intentions. Its the "beauty police" (i.e. marketing people) and the money cops (finance dingalings) who often interfere and drive poor decisions - but yes, sometimes it is the engineer themselves who forget to take their medication and really mess up.
Gee Uncle Soichiro - could you please do a better job on the ST1600?
Nearly everything you do or need to replace in routine servicing requires the removal of a multitude of pieces of expensive and fragile plastic, the removal of four other components and a head-scratching array of wires and hoses. Even checking the engine oil is a PITA - you have get right down into the dirt and peer in past hot exhaust pipes at a crummy little dark glass which is invariably covered in road grime. Adding oil requires the removal of not one, but TWO silly ceremonial covers - at least one of which is the verge of breaking throughout the process (or being stepped on).
It simply does not have to be this way - every design starts with a clean sheet of paper and every engine starts with good intentions. Its the "beauty police" (i.e. marketing people) and the money cops (finance dingalings) who often interfere and drive poor decisions - but yes, sometimes it is the engineer themselves who forget to take their medication and really mess up.
Gee Uncle Soichiro - could you please do a better job on the ST1600?
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Shawn K
Professional Cat Confuser
Show me a motorcycle that's easy to work on, and I'll show you an old motorcycle.
True - I love working on my Yamaha XS650s (1970s) which are like the British bikes but with actual working lights.
However, as for modern bikes, try a Suzuki SV650 - pretty darned nice and not hard to work on at all.