Where did the recommendation for Honda M-77 Assembly Paste start?

As promised I'm following up to a reply i made to this post. Talked to Ted Porter at the Beemershop and he said he still hasn't found a suitable replacement for the Gaurd Dog 525.

I also talked to the TS-MOLY people and they can't get the Gaurd Dog 525 anymore. He said he needs to update his website the remove the GD 525.

My Honda manual says use Dow Corning G-n molykote. I'm going to buy a little tub of that and see what it's all about, I'm still trying to find the molybdenum content of that. I haven't been able to as of yet. Cheers, Chunk.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong. I've always understood Assembly Paste/Lube to be used to lubricate dry engine parts when building a new engine. It provides short term lubrication until the pressure fed oil washes it away, leaving no residue. It is not necessarily designed for long term lubrication - like any good grease.
 
That's one use, all right.

But apparently it's also great for use on splines because it resists being squeezed out by high pressure, much better than ( much lower % ) moly grease. Honda specifies moly paste instead of moly grease. And the three O-rings in the rear spline & drive help keep the paste in place. That's why the O-rings should be replaced periodically.
 
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Chunk said:
As promised I'm following up to a reply i made to this post. Talked to Ted Porter at the Beemershop and he said he still hasn't found a suitable replacement for the Gaurd Dog 525. Snip .......................
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Tell Ted about the Jet-Lube MP-50
 
jfheath said:
Larry sent me some pictures of a wheel that had had Honda M77 Paste applied - mentioned in post #1. He says:

This was half way through a tire change.
I found that the M-77 had dried up like dirt and flaked off the splines.
You’ll also notice that it didn’t protect the inner hub, and you could see rust starting!​

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Wow, this is not a good testimonial for M-77.
I must say, I get better results with the Dorman "HELP" CV U-joint grease I have been using.
 
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Chunk said:
My Honda manual says use Dow Corning G-n molykote. I'm going to buy a little tub of that and see what it's all about, I'm still trying to find the molybdenum content of that. I haven't been able to as of yet.
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GIYF.

MOLYKOTE(R) G-N PLUS PASTE - MoS2: >= 6 - <= 10
MOLYKOTE(R) G-N METAL ASSEMBLY PASTE - MoS2: >= 14 - <= 18
 
Jim Van said:
I'm just interested in finding something with at least 40% moly that costs less, since I'm retired and on a fixed income. Maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet.
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Check this out:

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-MP-...001HWC1MK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

50% moly and I think the price is reasonable, especially since it should be a lifetime supply. It's what I used the last 2 times I replaced the tires and plan to continue using.

The first time I replaced the rear tire, I didn't use anything (because I didn't know). The next 2 times, I used CV joint grease and since then, this moly paste. At 56,000 miles, I can't see any significant wear to the splines.
 
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Chunk said:
As promised I'm following up to a reply i made to this post. Talked to Ted Porter at the Beemershop and he said he still hasn't found a suitable replacement for the Gaurd Dog 525.

I also talked to the TS-MOLY people and they can't get the Gaurd Dog 525 anymore. He said he needs to update his website the remove the GD 525.

My Honda manual says use Dow Corning G-n molykote. I'm going to buy a little tub of that and see what it's all about, I'm still trying to find the molybdenum content of that. I haven't been able to as of yet. Cheers, Chunk.
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Thanks for the update!
 
ddemair said:
Check this out:

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-MP-...001HWC1MK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

50% moly and I think the price is reasonable, especially since it should be a lifetime supply. It's what I used the last 2 times I replaced the tires and plan to continue using.

The first time I replaced the rear tire, I didn't use anything (because I didn't know). The next 2 times, I used CV joint grease and since then, this moly paste. At 56,000 miles, I can't see any significant wear to the splines.
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Jim Van said:
Then I did another search and came up with this product : [URL="https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-MP-50
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Thanks, I ordered some a few days ago. Good to hear you have had good results. I should have it delivered by tomorrow.
 
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Igofar said:
I wonder if we should be considering our application, rather than just the Moly content? ... What about heat issues? ... Maybe we shouldn't get caught up searching for the highest Moly content, and focus on the application.
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I think Larry has identified a very important consideration that we might be overlooking when we perseverate on the 'moly content' of a replacement for the dear departed Honda Moly 60 paste.

It won't help us if our chosen replacement product contains 300% moly by weight or volume if the stuff won't stay on the splines for the full length of time between rear tire changes. The differential at the back of the motorcycle gets very hot after a long period of riding, and we also need to consider the centrifugal force that will try to throw the lubricant off the splines during high speed riding.

I've looked at the different products that have been mentioned in the first three pages of this discussion - one product that clearly states an operating temperature range is the Loctite LB8012 paste, which is suitable for use up to 400˚C. The 'Jet-Lube MP-50' label shows an upper operating temperature limit of 185˚C - whether that is sufficient for our needs I do not know.

What I also don't know is how we can determine if a potential replacement lubricant is "sticky" enough to stay in place between rear tire changes.

Michael
 
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CYYJ said:
perseverate
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Good word! I've only come across that twice before in my entire life. Doesn't come up much in casual conversation. Surprising since it reflects the backbone of many a forum! :rofl1:
 
More photos from Larry of M77 paste used in the splines. The tell tale streaks radiating perpendicularly from the centre indicate the direction in which the grease went as a result of the forces exerted by a spinning wheel.


002.jpg 003.jpg 005.jpg 007.jpg

The last 3 pics show the results of failing to put any grease on the axle - Larry says this one had to be knocked out with a hammer and brass punch.

017.jpg 018.jpg 019.jpg
 
CYYJ said:
What I also don't know is how we can determine if a potential replacement lubricant is "sticky" enough to stay in place between rear tire changes.

Michael
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I guess I should have mentioned the 30,000 mile interval between some of my car tire changes.....TS70 is the good stuff but debate on....

This spring, (2017) preparing for another long ride season which included Alaska I cleaned the splines to bare metal. They looked almost new after 200,000 miles of TS70 use. Take that from a former machinist/machine shop inspector...or not. Back to the debate.

Just order the TS70, it will last 20 years for the average 10,000 mile per year rider.
 
ZIAMON said:
$33 for 8 oz. is what you need.

https://www.tsmoly.com/anti-seize-lubricants-compounds-moly-paste-with-mossub2sub-p-84.html
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This is the product I'm going to use when I run out of my Honda Moly60. Still have a full tube and half of another one. I also bought a product called Jet-Lube MP-50 years ago to try. It's 50% moly paste and comes in a 16 oz size at about the same price as 8 oz TS70.
I think I'm covered with this Moly stuff until I retire from riding.
No wear on my gear teeth as I even tried the Jet Lube for one rear tire campaign.

It really depends how you ride and where you ride also. Wife always complains I drive like a gramps. :old1:
 
Al Gully said:
It really depends how you ride and where you ride also. Wife always complains I drive like a gramps. :old1:
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Care to qualify that random statement? Not trying to make trouble but no it doesn't really matter how you ride or where you've rode. I'm pretty sure mines been rode rough and put up plenty wet.

What matters is if the lube stays on the splines between inspections, this stuff does.

I also place most of the lube on the female side of the hub joint so the lube stays on the splines as the male spline is installed into the female side. If you put a lot of lube on the male splines it just squishes off out of the joint coupling during install.
 
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