- Joined
- Sep 25, 2009
- Messages
- 1,083
- Age
- 71
- Location
- West Des Moines, IA
- Bike
- 2024 Kaw Vulcan S
- 2026 Miles
- 006690
Rode to the Kawasaki dealer to pick up a few parts. I had ordered some axle nut cotter pins that were in. There was also a warranty part, a rear brake light switch, that I was told had arrived for me. I found that the rear brake light would stick ON sometimes and discovered it was due to a "catch" or detent that shouldn't be there in the rear brake light switch. I had adjusted it out of spec so I would have to push the rear brake harder to make the light turn on. But since I almost always use both front and rear brakes together I wasn't worried too much about it. Still, because it is a "new" bike I had the dealer order the switch. Turns out they ordered the front switch and not the rear switch. So that will be another ride when they correct their mistake. I don't mind too much since it is no charge to me (warranty) AND it's another ride.
Rode 47.6 miles today. That was planned to bring me right up to as close to 600 miles as I could get. That put me at 599 on the odometer... but likely JUST under 600 based on where I was when it turned over to that last mile. My odometer does not show tenths but it's still close enough to show Kawasaki I was right on time for the break-in oil/filter change. So I did that also this afternoon. Dumped out the factory break-in oil and mutilated the factory filter getting it off. They always seem to use an impact drill to install those at the factory. Stabbed a long screw driver through the old filter and still had a hard time to get it to move at all. The new filters I am using are HiFloFiltro HF303RC. One of the items Kawasaki officially named as a cross to the factory branded one. Being a Ninja engine it does use a racing filter. It has an O-ring seal and a nut on the end and the manual for the filter says the nut is only for removal as expected... but the instructions also state that if needed the nut CAN be used to install as long as torque is not higher than 32 ft lbs. Not to worry since torque per the bike owner manual is 12.9 ft lbs so I did use the nut. The nut on these filters are welded with a very wide flange to spread the torque when tightening so I felt OK doing that. Normally I wouldn't, but there was no way I was going to use my hands to get the filter anywhere close to that tight. Though it likely wouldn't drip even if I didn't get it to official torque. An no flutes on these filters so the only other way is to use a strap wrench.
Now I am ready to go on longer trips to go camping. I simply didn't want to take off on a trip and have to change the oil and filter while on the road. So now I have 7000 miles to the next regular service on the schedule.
edit: Took me 29 days to put the first 599 miles on the new bike. Actually only 570 miles of those are mine since there were 29 miles on the bike when I first looked at it.
Rode 47.6 miles today. That was planned to bring me right up to as close to 600 miles as I could get. That put me at 599 on the odometer... but likely JUST under 600 based on where I was when it turned over to that last mile. My odometer does not show tenths but it's still close enough to show Kawasaki I was right on time for the break-in oil/filter change. So I did that also this afternoon. Dumped out the factory break-in oil and mutilated the factory filter getting it off. They always seem to use an impact drill to install those at the factory. Stabbed a long screw driver through the old filter and still had a hard time to get it to move at all. The new filters I am using are HiFloFiltro HF303RC. One of the items Kawasaki officially named as a cross to the factory branded one. Being a Ninja engine it does use a racing filter. It has an O-ring seal and a nut on the end and the manual for the filter says the nut is only for removal as expected... but the instructions also state that if needed the nut CAN be used to install as long as torque is not higher than 32 ft lbs. Not to worry since torque per the bike owner manual is 12.9 ft lbs so I did use the nut. The nut on these filters are welded with a very wide flange to spread the torque when tightening so I felt OK doing that. Normally I wouldn't, but there was no way I was going to use my hands to get the filter anywhere close to that tight. Though it likely wouldn't drip even if I didn't get it to official torque. An no flutes on these filters so the only other way is to use a strap wrench.
Now I am ready to go on longer trips to go camping. I simply didn't want to take off on a trip and have to change the oil and filter while on the road. So now I have 7000 miles to the next regular service on the schedule.

edit: Took me 29 days to put the first 599 miles on the new bike. Actually only 570 miles of those are mine since there were 29 miles on the bike when I first looked at it.
Last edited:



Russ.















