What tools do you have.
A metric socket set ?
A torque wrench ?
Allen keys or allen drivers ?
Bleed tube and non-return valve ?
Does your bike still have its toolkit ?
What year bike is it ? Not the registration - the model number printed on the white label stuck to the frame under the pillion seat. Eg ST1300A-8
The instructions will differ slightly according to which year it was made - 2008 onwards are different from 2002-2007.
Do this in stages with a success planned for the end of each day. You don't want the bike to be out in the open without a fairing, so getting behind the fairing can be left until you are ready to refill the hydraulic fluid.
You can probably get away without removing the upper banjo bolt from the left caliper. This is fed from the front brake lever, but the two for the SMC need to be removed and it is easier if the lower one from the caliper is removed. Note my comment about slackening two of the bolts while the pads are still in.
Plan your first target for the day / session. You are on a slope. Which way will the bike face ? It will be better on the centre stand. IT is awkward to work on the left hand side with the bike on a sidestand. Get a piece of thick wood to roll the back wheel onto. 1" say ? You may need a chock under the downhill wheel to stop it trying to roll back. You will need to be able to rotate the front wheel. How are you going to prevent brake spillage when you undo the banjo bolt - the lines will still have some fluid in them. The caliper and SMC will be full. You need to protect your wheels and tyres.
An early job is to remove the front left brake pads. This is either a hex head or an allen key. Make sure that it is the thin metal bolt which you can see passing through the two eys of the brake pads - at the lowere end of the caliper. Once the pins are out, rolling the front wheel backwards will help to get the pads out. Check them, clean them. Check the pad pin for being smooth, clean that up.
Make sure that the front brake lever cannot be squeezed by accident. eg Tape a block of wood or something between lever and handlebars.
Then stand back and realise that you have succeed in starting the job. Plan the next part - which is bound to involve brake fluid !
Yell out for help.
Thanks! BTW, is your first name John...?
I have all the tools except I do NOT have a torque wrench.
I bought a brake fluid bleeder kit last year (still unused) and I'm pretty sure it includes a one way valve.
My bike used to be my sole mode of transport, and now it is still my main transport and hence I do not want it laid up for 6 weeks while I start to rot and fester in my paralysis and anxiety.
I am in Dartmouth Nova Scotia, and I've asked before but there doesn't seem to be anyone near me able to help.
I'm getting stressed again because of mixed signals. Igofar says changing the SMC is 15 minutes... But reading everything, it seems like my bike will be grounded for weeks and I may not ever get it working again...
Some people say I need 8 crush washers... Igofar says 4. "Honda ones are expensive... get generic..." says someone. But what size...? and where from...?
Result... Paralysis.
Removing side covers is enough to paralyze me...
I need in-person help once... Then I'll be okay...
Otherwise, as it is (and because my front brakes are sticking and I'm afraid they could lock and throw me) I have a 15 thousand dollar paperweight in my driveway...
:-(
Also, what brake fluid should I buy off the available choices I posted in the original post...?
www.st-owners.com
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