1250fa chain!

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Hey all, my chain is on its last leg, it's super still despite regular cleanings and greasing. No shops nearby stock chains and that leads me only with the net.

How the heck do I know what chain to get? I need to order one as soon as possible but Amazon lists three chains all with different number of links.

My sprockets are oem and so is my chain. At 31k miles. Please help
 
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First replace everything both sprockets and the chain. Also you will need a chain tool


I have heard good things about these guys
 
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Don Feyma may be along shortly to give advice based on his chain experience with that same bike. the only thing you need to know is the chain link size (520/530/630, etc) and the number of links. The chain in the box is usually not equal to the number of links you actually need, so you remove a few links to get to the desired number.

Where someone with your same bike may be able to help is with their experience of which chain brand/model lasted longer than others.

And depending on how many miles you have on the sprockets you don't necessarily need to change them with every chain replacement. You can usually see the teeth start to hook as they wear out. I saw one in a shop years ago that looked like a circular saw blade, the teeth were so hooked. The owner kept it as a demonstration of what not to do.
 
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Is there a Suzuki Bandit forum? I'm on the VStrom forum and I have to say that the quality of info is nothing like what we have here. That said, there IS a lot of good info on the stromtrooper website, and I would search for a Bandit website first. I've winnowed the number of v. good chain mfrs for my Suzi down to three based on what I have read on that website, but a DL650 is not a 1250 cc bike. There are also some very good vendors selling sprockets. Again, forums for recommendations.
 
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czarwolf
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Both sprockets have already been examined and they are in good shape, and both are OEM.
 
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Its been a long time since my last chain drive bike, but I seem to recall I'd get 20-25k per chain, and the sprockets would need to be changed every other chain replacement. What's the common wisdom on sprocket vs. chain replacement interval for those of you with current chain driven bikes?
 
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czarwolf
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Yeah my Bandit is way more twisty than my old ST1100, I still miss her. But I digress.

In my manual it says never to use a chain with a master link, only use the Suzuki continuous chains, But i cant find them anywhere, Is this like.. gospel or can I still use any chain? Also... I cant find it anywhere, what are the stock sprockets so i can order my chain?
 
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czarwolf
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Thanks ive tried google but i get a mass of different chain sizes, All i know is she is all original components still at 31k miles. She is a 2011 Suzuki 1250FA, One of the only years a bandit, wasn't called a bandit. But ive been told the 1250FA is just a full faring version of the Bandit.
 

Obo

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OEM appears to be a RK brand, model GB50GSV Z3, 118 links. I'm looking to see if that's a 520, 525 or 530 size. There are ways you can measure the pins and spacing to determine what you have. You can also count the links to figure our what you need for length. Just use a Sharpie to mark a link, then rotate the chain and count.
 

Obo

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I have a Bandit 1250S. Sprockets are 18-front 43 rear. Chain 118/530
you can use 44 or even 45 rear for even more torque (have to look what I put last time)
As for the chain, I use a master link and a clip. As long as the clip in in in the groove it will hold as good. I've used clips in many bikes.
I'm not a clip fan myself. I prefer the screw links, followed by the pressed links. The screw links provide the ease of installation of a clip with the security of a pressed.
 

sky.high

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Do yourself a favour, get the a motion pro chain tool mentioned by @Grabcon and rivet the chain as recommended by Suzuki
Personally I don't use the tool to remove the chain, bolt cutters are cheaper!
 

Obo

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@czarwolf there ya go. 530 chain and 118 links. You can decide what type of link you are comfortable with.

For what it's worth sometimes it's cheaper to buy a chain with more links and cut them off vs buying the exact links you need. Not sure why manufactuers charge more for the same chain that's shorter but they sometimes do!
If you do need to remove links (and the old chain) you don't need to buy a dedicated chain breaker. Removing the old chain can be done with a grinder or hacksaw. Removing excess links can be done by grinding away the pin heads on the new chain on both sides, then tapping them out with a punch. I put an impact socket under the link I was removing for support for hte pin to drop down into.

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The motionpro tools recommends grinding the links first, then pressing them out with the tool. If you don't grind them out it's not uncommon to break the tool - which they just happen to sell replacement tips for ;)
 
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What's the common wisdom on sprocket vs. chain replacement interval for those of you with current chain driven bikes?
Haven't owned my VStrom long enough to answer from experience, but from reading threads on the stromtrooper website, anywhere from 25k to 50k miles. Yes, at least a couple of guys have said they get 50K miles on a chain and sprocket set. I would think the life depends on the riding style, frequency of lubrication, and the owner's penchant for preventative maintenance.
 
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Spokane Wa
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Hey all, my chain is on its last leg, it's super still despite regular cleanings and greasing. No shops nearby stock chains and that leads me only with the net.

How the heck do I know what chain to get? I need to order one as soon as possible but Amazon lists three chains all with different number of links.

My sprockets are oem and so is my chain. At 31k miles. Please help
Just a personal opinion, and we all know about opinions... but with the mileage you have I would replace both sprockets and the chain. Good chains are not cheap and good sprockets are. I wouldnt run new chain on questionable sprockets, you wont get the mileage out of the new chain if your sprockets are worn.
 

Mellow

Joe
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On my Tracer, I replaced the oem DID chain as the x-rings were coming out and I think it was just a bad chain maybe.. not sure and doesn't matter at this point.

I went with an EK chain w/screw link.. VERY easy to install, so easy you keep looking at it to make sure you did it right as you just don't expect it to be that easy..


I also got a Motion Pro Chain Break which made removing the OEM one easy as well.

I think all OEM chains are continuous from the factory and not sure you'll find any like that to purchase but you don't want to anyway because it's extra work to get access to the front sprocket in most cases vs just threading it through... trick is to leave the old chain on when you break it and either tie it or use the pins and connect the new chain then thread it through that way but I didn't even do that last time.

If your sprockets don't have a shark-tooth look to them, don't waste your money on new ones.
 
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I think all OEM chains are continuous from the factory and not sure you'll find any like that to purchase but you don't want to anyway because it's extra work to get access to the front sprocket in most cases vs just threading it through... trick is to leave the old chain on when you break it and either tie it or use the pins and connect the new chain then thread it through that way but I didn't even do that last time.
I disagree, as aplicable to a 2nd gen V Strom. My bike came w/ the PO's installed 17 tooth front sprocket and I decided to change it. After loosening the nut, it became obvious that there was insufficient room to remove the sprocket and chain. I removed the rear wheel and with the slack available was able to remove the chain and then swap that oversized sprocket for a 16 tooth one (15 is OEM stock). Now there was more clearance and installing my endless chain was a piece of cake (pie?). On this bike, yanking the rear wheel to change the chain is easier, imo, than messing around with an endless chain, chain breaker, and master link. YMMV
 
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