1250fa chain!

[Don-STOC237]

I got 40K+ out of the first chain on my 2011FA. I'd suggest replacing the sprockets every time you replace the chain, unless you're doing a lot of dirt riding and are going through chains at an abnormally high rate. I've had plenty of sprockets with considerable visible wear (comparing them with the new ones) without looking "shark toothed. "I'm using chain and sprockets purchased from Dale Walker at Holeshot Performance. Bikemaster 530 gold chain 530 - 120 tooth. 18 tooth and 43 tooth sprockets are stock sizes. Use heavy steel sprockets - the aluminum ones wear out too fast.
You'll need to remove a couple of links from the chain to get to the 118 tooth required - leaving 120 on will put the adjustment points too far back. You can probably get a continuous chain at 118 links from Suzuki OEM parts houses but it is a lot more expensive and cutting/installing chains is pretty easy. I think riveting the ends with the supplied master links are the best way to go - i don't trust the clips or screwed on ones except maybe in an emergency. ALL IMHO - YMMV

 

[Don-STOC237]

maximum-suzuki.com is probably the best USA based Bandit/1250FA forum.

 

[dduelin]

I'm guessing from this thread posts you don't have much experience replacing a chain but I could be wrong. Please forgive me.

A 100+ horsepower motorcycle chain that breaks or throws the master link can destroy the transmission case, maim your ankle, or perhaps lock up the rear wheel at speed. I'd consider finding experienced help with this task if you don't know how to do it.

 

[Larry Fine]

I've never had an issue with a clip-type master link, but my last chain installation on my NH750 was a kit that came with a Regina chain with a hollow-rivet master link and JT sprockets. Simple and reliable installation with a Bikemaster link tool.

 

[SMSW]

I'm guessing from this thread posts you don't have much experience replacing a chain but I could be wrong. Please forgive me.

A 100+ horsepower motorcycle chain that breaks or throws the master link can destroy the transmission case, maim your ankle, or perhaps lock up the rear wheel at speed. I'd consider finding experienced help with this task if you don't know how to do it.

I second that. A guy on the V Strom website was out in the dirt climbing a hill when his chain let go. It jammed at the front sprocket and he had to call his wife to pick him and the bike up with a trailer. The chain not only jammed against the case, but it broke the cast cover and bent the output shaft (countershaft(?)) upon which the sprocket was mounted. He ended up pulling the motor, splitting the cases, and rebuilding the whole thing, spending more than the bike was worth. The project evolved over a year's time requiring more and more parts and money until he realized he was in too deep to stop.

 

[thekaz]

I went with an EK chain w/screw link.. VERY easy to install, so easy you keep looking at it to make sure you did it right as you just don't expect it to be that easy..

I am not sure my old school brain can deal with that kinda link but wow that is a great no special tool or no special skills solution

 

[Mellow]

I am not sure my old school brain can deal with that kinda link but wow that is a great no special tool or no special skills solution

Been working great on the Tracer. I'm planning on sticking with this setup.

 

[czarwolf]

maximum-suzuki.com is probably the best USA based Bandit/1250FA forum.

Cant join them, they don't accept Gmail emails for what ever reason

 

[czarwolf]

I'm guessing from this thread posts you don't have much experience replacing a chain but I could be wrong. Please forgive me.

A 100+ horsepower motorcycle chain that breaks or throws the master link can destroy the transmission case, maim your ankle, or perhaps lock up the rear wheel at speed. I'd consider finding experienced help with this task if you don't know how to do it.

I have zero experience with working on chains, my last bike was shaft driven so maintenance only required fresh oil once or twice in the life of the bike.

This all started a few weeks back, I live on a dirt road, ride 300 - 500 miles a week and was cleaning my chain every other week, Then my chain started rubbing a lot, grinding, getting snatchy when at low speed. Me and my Mechanic assumed this was a bearing issue as the read wheel didn't free spin to well when the bike was on its center stand. Last week end we took the back tire off, broke it down and the bearings were fine and still had clean factory grease in a good amount left! So we got new seals and put it back together, we then moved forward, checking the sprockets which look fine with no shark toothing or pointed bits.

Finally we settled on the chain, it had a few really stiff parts. We believe either my Dupont brand degreaser for the chain is getting under the seals and washing away the grease OR at 31k miles, the chain is just at its end.

Thus my quest for a new chain and now i reckon matching sprockets. I now know my Sprocket numbers are 530 and 118 so i can work on buying a chain kit for my bike.

This leads me to a new question on is moving up or down teeth numbers would be better or not? Personally I would like to keep my 1250FA close to stock as i like how it rides and want my speedo to remain accurate. But would I gain anything by changing teeth? And, any recommendations on Sprockets? I don't 'squid', Never have I don't an intentional wheelie [One or two accidentals when i first started out lol]

Thanks for the help so far!

 

[RaYzerman]

If your chain has all those stiff parts, I'd replace it too. I'm anal, so would do new sprockets at the same time, save the others for wall decoration in the shop. The only reason for changing the gearing is for certain revs at a certain speed, or low gear is too tall or personal preference. The bike has gobs of torque, so you could conceivably change to higher gearing, but.... will that now make first gear too tall? Only you can decide, or see what the consensus is on a Bandit forum.
Here is a gearing calculator you can play with

Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7

Motorcycle speed and sprocket calculator with bike database for gearing, sprockets, tires and chains of over 1900 bikes. Request yours to be added as well.

www.gearingcommander.com

 

[Obo]

The 530 is chain size, and is mated to the front and rear sprockets.

Chain Pitch Width

520	15.88mm	6.35mm
525	15.88mm	7.85mm
530	15.88mm	9.53mm

The 118 is the total number of links in the chain.

Advantages of going up in chain size "aka thickness" could include a more robust chain that can handle more power, but if the stock size is fine there's no real need. Going smaller, well that would be bad if the tensile strength was less. As per above if you have a 525 and try to go to a smaller 520 the chain won't fit right on the teeth. If you went to a 530 when you have a 525 sprocket it would be loose side to side.

The only reason to add / remove the number of links would be if you greatly increased or reduced the front or rear sprocket size. (larger sprockets mean more chain)

I went with an increased front sprocket on my Kawi to lower the RPM's when cruising on the highway.(The OEM setup makes the bike buzzy at highway speeds and you're always hunting for another gear.) Usually if you go up 1-2 teeth in a sprocket you can keep the same length chain.

The things to consider are if you go too large in the front (if you do a larger front sprocket) you may not have clearances and the chain will hit/rub.

Modifying the front and rear sprockets will adjust a variety of things. You can make the bike easier to wheelie or slower off the line but possibly a bit faster top end. It will also play with your mpg. Factory settings are there for the best overall usability day to day unless you want something specific.

If your speedo is driven off the front wheel then changing sprocket sizes will have no effect. If it's driven off the engine or based on rear wheel spin, you'd need to see if you could buy a speedo healer for your bike to correct that.

The other thing that manufacturers will tote is the difference between o-ring, x-ring, double-x ring, w-ring etc. Each will say one is better than the other.

 

[Larry Fine]

Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7

Motorcycle speed and sprocket calculator with bike database for gearing, sprockets, tires and chains of over 1900 bikes. Request yours to be added as well.

www.gearingcommander.com

Sprocket Calculator - The easy motorcycle sprocket and chain calculator

Weird that they look different; I linked them both the same way.

 

[RaYzerman]

What obo says..... I'd stick with the stock 530 chain with all that torque, likely an O-ring... x-ring if you like.
The other thing you can do is increase the rear tire size from the stock 180/55 to a 190/55 as it is a slightly larger diameter and may correct any minor speedo error. From FJR experience, handles better too with no ill effects whatsoever.

 

[SMSW]

On the V Strom forum, a number of guys have said that changing the front sprocket a tooth doesn't seem to affect the mileage. When I changed my front sprocket down in size one tooth, the rpm's at 60 mph dropped about 500. Your bike will be different.

EDIT: I blew it. The rpm's increased by 500. Thanks @Walleye .

 

[Walleye]

On the V Strom forum, a number of guys have said that changing the front sprocket a tooth doesn't seem to affect the mileage. When I changed my front sprocket down in size one tooth, the rpm's at 60 mph dropped about 500. Your bike will be different.

Engine RPM will increase by dropping a tooth on the front at any speed, and lower RPM adding a tooth.

 

[SMSW]

Engine RPM will increase by dropping a tooth on the front at any speed, and lower RPM adding a tooth.

Oops. yes, you are right. I was thinking backwards.

 

[Don-STOC237]

A lot of Vstrom guys will change the gearing in order to run a little higher rpm's, since the stock gearing on that bike makes it lug in 6th until you're above about 65-70 mph.

I did that when I had my DL1000.

However, the Vstrom is a twin, and the 1250FA is a 4. The FA has to be going at ridiculously low speeds before the engine will lug in any gear because it has so much torque. I stay with stock gearing on this one.

 

[Don-STOC237]

I can guarantee that the 1250FA doesn't lug in any gear with the stock gearing. Loads of torque. The only time it lugs a little is when you mistakenly start from stop in 2nd gear - even then it's not much.

 

[czarwolf]

Thanks for all the advice and assistance, successfully replaced the chain over the weekend and it made a world of difference! The stock chain had 31k miles on it, the new one makes the bike ride sooo much smoother and quiet, Its like riding a new bike

 

[Obo]

Thanks for all the advice and assistance, successfully replaced the chain over the weekend and it made a world of difference! The stock chain had 31k miles on it, the new one makes the bike ride sooo much smoother and quiet, Its like riding a new bike

Just remember to keep it cleaned and lubricated (and adjusted).
I like to use Maxima chain cleaner and Maxima chain wax.