I want to have a look at the elbows and hoses underneath the carbs, how do I remove them, is it the retainers on the four rubber boots ? How do I reach the front ones, does the radiator have to come off
Carb removal
- Thread starter john_needs_a_bike
- Start date
A long screwdriver, preferably a JIS type should be able to reach all the lower clamps, unless someone else has been in there before and messed with them. I seem to recall they have alignment nubs on them though, so I think even if they were removed before the screws should be in the original positions. Once you have all the clamps removed, the most common method used is to remove the gas tank and pry up on them from the rear using a wooden lever of some type, like a broom handle. The frame cross member in the picture you posted is used for leverage. Leave those top snorkels attached, and when I did the job I was able to leave the throttle cables attached as well and just swung the whole assembly over to the right side and out of the way.
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Are those screws in my second pic Phillips or pz, my screwdrivers don't fit them
All scews that look like Phillips are gonna be JIS.
All the "phillips" screws on Hondas are actually JIS. Invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers (available on Amazon and others)
The right-front carb clamps are the hardest to see/get to, but you do not need to remove the radiator, or the fuel tank.
You can leave the cables connected until you get the carbs off.
Disconnect fuel line
Loosen all 8 clamps (2 clamps on each "isolator")
The isolators will be very hard, and it takes a good bit of effort to remove. **YOU WILL NEED TO BUY NEW ONES AS THEY USUALLY CRACK WHEN REMOVED**
Pry around the perimeter between the carb mounting plate and frame. Wooden dowel rod, old broom handle, or other pry bars work.
It will eventually pop off.
Good Luck!
The right-front carb clamps are the hardest to see/get to, but you do not need to remove the radiator, or the fuel tank.
You can leave the cables connected until you get the carbs off.
Disconnect fuel line
Loosen all 8 clamps (2 clamps on each "isolator")
The isolators will be very hard, and it takes a good bit of effort to remove. **YOU WILL NEED TO BUY NEW ONES AS THEY USUALLY CRACK WHEN REMOVED**
Pry around the perimeter between the carb mounting plate and frame. Wooden dowel rod, old broom handle, or other pry bars work.
It will eventually pop off.
Good Luck!
kiltman
Site Supporter
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- Apr 27, 2013
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- Age
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- Stratford, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- 2002,ST1100ABS
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- 8826
The mechanic I use advised to have the bike run for 15 minutes so the intake rubbers get soft from the heat, or you could aim a hairdryer in that area to warm them up first. Heat them up again with a hairdryer to install them. A bit of rubber friendly lubricant will also make the install a bit easier too.
bdalameda
PaleoCyclist
To install I lube the manifolds and then in my garage climb a ladder next to the bike, do a pull up on the garage rafter and step down on the sides of the plenum box and pop the carbs in place. It's getting a little more difficult in my 65+ years but it works. LOL
bdalameda
PaleoCyclist
Here is a good guide about carb removal - I think I beat John O. to this!
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Yes I've ordered some jis screwdrivers should be here Wednesday, so I've put it all back together for now, at least I can ride it for a few days, how much of the front plastics need to be removed to get to those clamps ?
You'll find that for a lot of various maintenance items a lot of bodywork has to be removed, just to access the radiator cap for example, so you'll get good at it in no time.
For this job:
1) remove both saddlebags
2) remove seat
3) remove both side covers below the seat
4) remove false gas tank cover
5) remove side covers by the cylinder heads
6) remove the two grey plastic pieces on each side of the false gas tank cover
Its been 8-9 years since I did mine, so I can't recall if 5) and 6) are actually necessary, you'll be able to see as you get the airbox off after step 4).
In reference to my previous comment about the radiator cap, steps 1-6 are needed for clear access to the rad cap, with the exception of the left side grey piece.
1-6 above is correct. Put my carbs back on today, cruise control installation.
I took lots of photos when I rebuilt the carbs on my 1991. All the boots were hardened and cracked. An old broken boot is on the left of the first photo, new one on the right. There is an index feature on both the boots and the casting on the heads, just line 'em up.
Make sure the clamp screws are located 'outward' on all four carbs, otherwise several may interfere with the throttle linkage. I found three of these clamps very loose and just hanging.....I suspect the last 'mechanic' had some linkage blockage and simply moved the clamps out of the way, rather than popping the carbs back off and properly aligning the clamps. Still...the bike ran fine.
Make sure the clamp screws are located 'outward' on all four carbs, otherwise several may interfere with the throttle linkage. I found three of these clamps very loose and just hanging.....I suspect the last 'mechanic' had some linkage blockage and simply moved the clamps out of the way, rather than popping the carbs back off and properly aligning the clamps. Still...the bike ran fine.
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ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Yup... they're getting like vulcanized to the metal, which is why I replace them every 2~3 years, precautionary...
(once had to remove the tank and use a blank hacksaw blade (wrapped one end with duck-tape to have a handle) to cut one off... once is enough, never again!
)
So how difficult is it to remove the carb assembly? I've done some research, looks a bit scary but not impossible... I'm Interested in your opinions. I have at least one rubber fuel line leaking, on my 2002 ST1100 with 33k miles. I called a repair shop and was told there is a current 5 week wait to get your bike in and obtaining parts is a problem do to supply chain issues. So I'm asking because I don't know, can you buy a length of hose and cut to size or do you have to buy individuals pieces? I'm thinking if I remove the carbs, all rubber hoses should be replaced. Thanks in advance, Ron
So, finally got thru to parts dept, some parts are still available. Factory rubber hoses, some are pre-molded, the rest should be able to buy length and cut to size. Ordered my JIS screwdrivers. Need to make up parts list.
there are numerous OEM parts suppliers online that you can order the parts from, any reason you are going through a shop?
Its not clear what line you're referring to when you say "one rubber fuel line leaking", if you can point it out in a photo others here can help with suggestions regarding what type of line to use to repair it and if its generic or Honda specific.
One of the reasons people here will pull the carbs is to replace the coolant lines that sit below the carbs. Over time they swell and eventually burst, so replacing them after about 15 years is a good idea. At the same time you'll need to replace the carb boots, and a few other miscellaneous pieces, so if this is something you're interested in doing just ask here for help.
Its not clear what line you're referring to when you say "one rubber fuel line leaking", if you can point it out in a photo others here can help with suggestions regarding what type of line to use to repair it and if its generic or Honda specific.
One of the reasons people here will pull the carbs is to replace the coolant lines that sit below the carbs. Over time they swell and eventually burst, so replacing them after about 15 years is a good idea. At the same time you'll need to replace the carb boots, and a few other miscellaneous pieces, so if this is something you're interested in doing just ask here for help.
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
It's not hard. And if you're referring to the two elbow tubes downstream from the fuel filter and splitter, it might not be too hard to just lift the rear as opposed to pulling the whole carb set. BUT - you're in that far and your bike is 20YO. If it was me (I did this twice..) I'd pull the carbs all the way and install new insulators (boots, whatever you want to call them) and replace the cooling system hoses/elbows/o-rings and the fuel lines. Just do it all. The carbs will be mostly out, anyway. The most recent time I did it one of the fuel line elbows was N/A so I just used some bulk line from the local dealer. It works fine.
When you get to that point, start a new thread and ask questions along the way. I'd budget a weekend with all parts in-hand first. Gotta go slow with the plastic parts or risk breakage..
I'll take some
Will do,1st nice day here in Michigan...had to be outside. Now that I'm so tired I have to sit, I'll start on my parts shopping list. Another question, Is there a good source for honda parts other than a Honda dealer?