A long screwdriver, preferably a JIS type should be able to reach all the lower clamps, unless someone else has been in there before and messed with them. I seem to recall they have alignment nubs on them though, so I think even if they were removed before the screws should be in the original positions. Once you have all the clamps removed, the most common method used is to remove the gas tank and pry up on them from the rear using a wooden lever of some type, like a broom handle. The frame cross member in the picture you posted is used for leverage. Leave those top snorkels attached, and when I did the job I was able to leave the throttle cables attached as well and just swung the whole assembly over to the right side and out of the way.
Yes I've ordered some jis screwdrivers should be here Wednesday, so I've put it all back together for now, at least I can ride it for a few days, how much of the front plastics need to be removed to get to those clamps ?All the "phillips" screws on Hondas are actually JIS. Invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers (available on Amazon and others)
The right-front carb clamps are the hardest to see/get to, but you do not need to remove the radiator, or the fuel tank.
You can leave the cables connected until you get the carbs off.
Disconnect fuel line
Loosen all 8 clamps (2 clamps on each "isolator")
The isolators will be very hard, and it takes a good bit of effort to remove. **YOU WILL NEED TO BUY NEW ONES AS THEY USUALLY CRACK WHEN REMOVED**
Pry around the perimeter between the carb mounting plate and frame. Wooden dowel rod, old broom handle, or other pry bars work.
It will eventually pop off.
Good Luck!
You'll find that for a lot of various maintenance items a lot of bodywork has to be removed, just to access the radiator cap for example, so you'll get good at it in no time.how much of the front plastics need to be removed to get to those clamps ?
Yup... they're getting like vulcanized to the metal, which is why I replace them every 2~3 years, precautionary...All the boots were hardened and cracked.
It's not hard. And if you're referring to the two elbow tubes downstream from the fuel filter and splitter, it might not be too hard to just lift the rear as opposed to pulling the whole carb set. BUT - you're in that far and your bike is 20YO. If it was me (I did this twice..) I'd pull the carbs all the way and install new insulators (boots, whatever you want to call them) and replace the cooling system hoses/elbows/o-rings and the fuel lines. Just do it all. The carbs will be mostly out, anyway. The most recent time I did it one of the fuel line elbows was N/A so I just used some bulk line from the local dealer. It works fine.So how difficult is it to remove the carb assembly? Thanks in advance, Ron
I'll take somethere are numerous OEM parts suppliers online that you can order the parts from, any reason you are going through a shop?
Its not clear what line you're referring to when you say "one rubber fuel line leaking", if you can point it out in a photo others here can help with suggestions regarding what type of line to use to repair it and if its generic or Honda specific.
One of the reasons people here will pull the carbs is to replace the coolant lines that sit below the carbs. Over time they swell and eventually burst, so replacing them after about 15 years is a good idea. At the same time you'll need to replace the carb boots, and a few other miscellaneous pieces, so if this is something you're interested in doing just ask here for help.
Will do,1st nice day here in Michigan...had to be outside. Now that I'm so tired I have to sit, I'll start on my parts shopping list. Another question, Is there a good source for honda parts other than a Honda dealer?It's not hard. And if you're referring to the two elbow tubes downstream from the fuel filter and splitter, it might not be too hard to just lift the rear as opposed to pulling the whole carb set. BUT - you're in that far and your bike is 20YO. If it was me (I did this twice..) I'd pull the carbs all the way and install new insulators (boots, whatever you want to call them) and replace the cooling system hoses/elbows/o-rings and the fuel lines. Just do it all. The carbs will be mostly out, anyway. The most recent time I did it one of the fuel line elbows was N/A so I just used some bulk line from the local dealer. It works fine.
When you get to that point, start a new thread and ask questions along the way. I'd budget a weekend with all parts in-hand first. Gotta go slow with the plastic parts or risk breakage..