diferg
Dan & Ingrid
I am easily confused, is the speed sensor the same as the rpm limiter?
Cutting out again
- Thread starter Tdinova
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2007
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- 1,611
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- 61
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- Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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- 1&2&3-2005 ST1300ABS
- 2024 Miles
- 001862
- STOC #
- 8562
Another long shot, maybe a bad replacement fuel pump.
Did you ever figure out how to check the fuel pressure in the fuel rail,
I know a while go, a lot of rant and rave about the Turbo Tom fuel pressure regulator, I never knew why and the symptoms everyone was mentioning it fix or made better
Did you ever figure out how to check the fuel pressure in the fuel rail,
I know a while go, a lot of rant and rave about the Turbo Tom fuel pressure regulator, I never knew why and the symptoms everyone was mentioning it fix or made better
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
No, totally separate and unrelated.
One provides an electrical signal that the speedometer uses to indicate road speed, the other limits the engine RPM to a predefined maximum.
No, I think you're good. The speed sensor should output either0v or 5V (it sends pulses, frequency = speed). Should never output anything else
OP
OP
Over a week. No parts til Tuesday at the earliest...glad it's cold in eastern Canada
We had hail and snow rain Wednesday evening.
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In, installed, not hard to install only lost 5 tablespoon full of oil, initial drive done... shhhh
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157km today
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Warm day in Nova Scotia 24c... filled up and drove 305km with 2 stops. Refilled .. snap shot below. The 1st 175lmwas speed of 125kph remainder was 90 to 100 kph. 609km since my speed sensor change. Fingers crossed.. that's imperial gallons
W0QNX
Blacksheep Tribal Member
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- May 30, 2006
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- Pensacola, FL. USA
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- 06/ST1300 19/R1250RT
- 2024 Miles
- 007437
Dare we say anything? I'm not going to.....
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I don't care at this point.. any ride is a good ride
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Well today was a different story. At 130 km it started to act bad.. I was doing 100kph, shook my head, pulled in the clutch and turned the bike off and left it free roll about 5-600 feet, reached up turned on key and done a normal start. It worked perfect for 30-40 km and started again. I done the same sequence on startup. Landed home, revved the bike and turned it off. .. I'm at 760km from sensor change
Did anyone have a collapsed fuel line that connect from the lower to the fuel rail? If so what was the symptoms?
I'm grasping at straws here..
Did anyone have a collapsed fuel line that connect from the lower to the fuel rail? If so what was the symptoms?
I'm grasping at straws here..
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OP
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122km today, all good, Came home removed the gas tank to measure the throttle postion sensor. I cannot do it as I have to remove the body to get at the inside pins of the plug. I had the body off years ago, but not ......
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Here we again again but this time I heard the problem
My friend Randy (owner of a new cbr500) and I went to Bear River and then to Digby for lunch. Came across the #1 and headed down the #10. 3km before Springfield 'it happened' 269 KM to here. The bike stopped. Waited 5 minutes and limped 40km home. Total from last time 889km..
But the bright side. When I got home I put the bike inside, turned it off, and tried to start it. I always heard my fuel pump whine to pressurize the fuel rails.. this time it sounded very faint/dull. The bikes started but worked horrible... I left it cool off and restarted and heard a strong fuel pump. The bike worked perfect... now to find out WHY ..
Last summer/fall I replaced the fuel pump and only bought the 1 new line from Honda as the other was on back order. I reused the other old one... so no aftermarket lines.. I gotta trace back to a connection or break..
I wished i could have caught the voltage on the pump....
Edit... I bought a new fuel pump relay last fall
Would the ecu be at fault?
It's fun..
My friend Randy (owner of a new cbr500) and I went to Bear River and then to Digby for lunch. Came across the #1 and headed down the #10. 3km before Springfield 'it happened' 269 KM to here. The bike stopped. Waited 5 minutes and limped 40km home. Total from last time 889km..
But the bright side. When I got home I put the bike inside, turned it off, and tried to start it. I always heard my fuel pump whine to pressurize the fuel rails.. this time it sounded very faint/dull. The bikes started but worked horrible... I left it cool off and restarted and heard a strong fuel pump. The bike worked perfect... now to find out WHY ..
Last summer/fall I replaced the fuel pump and only bought the 1 new line from Honda as the other was on back order. I reused the other old one... so no aftermarket lines.. I gotta trace back to a connection or break..
I wished i could have caught the voltage on the pump....
Edit... I bought a new fuel pump relay last fall
Would the ecu be at fault?
It's fun..
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Another poster had reported last week that they had a problem with the connection at the top of the pump housing. There is a bulkhead connector where the power passes through the top. They reported power on the top of the connector but not on the underside. I wonder if you could have an issue with this connector. It might be worth pulling the housing off and testing the connection and see if it's weak/loose.
Ryan_B
Site Supporter
Sorry you are having such a hard time with this, but I applaud your patience and persistence! I went back and re-read/skimmed most of the thread - but I still may have missed it. Have you tried a different battery through any of this? Batteries (even newer ones) can do weird things when they get hot. I know you have a good alternator from your volt meter farkle, but I wonder if you have something going on with your battery.
Only other thought I had, you had the front end repaired under insurance from your collision. Maybe your main wire harness was routed poorly/wrong and has caused the wire insulation to rub together with another wire or on the frame (possibly the kill switch wire)?
Ryan
Only other thought I had, you had the front end repaired under insurance from your collision. Maybe your main wire harness was routed poorly/wrong and has caused the wire insulation to rub together with another wire or on the frame (possibly the kill switch wire)?
Ryan
OP
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Yes bought a new battery apr 29 2023.. the fuel pump has a strong whine, but today I noticed it had a very weak sounding whine (no even a whine, more of a puttor) while it was working bad. Once cool it was back to normal. Tomorrow I'm gonna trace wires back to hopefully find a scuffed wire. It has a new aftermarket pump and a new Honda relay..
- Joined
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Just reading through - did you ever change all of the leads ? I know you checked resistance and replaced one.
But the copper core in the end of the leads can break leaving very little to make contact.
Two things you can do here.
1 Chop off a small amount from the spark plug end. Then screw the cap back on. It screws in about an inch. Mark it on the cable so that you can see. Use silicone lubricant spray or silicone grease to make this easier.
2. Buy a few metres of copper core HT lead and fit that temporarily to test. You will need to fashion something at the coil end for the gland to push against. I managed with glue and string - roughen the HT lead and wind thin chord tightly around the HT lead and superglue the string in place. This is so that when you tighten the gland nut, it pushes the cable onto the spike deep inside the coil body.
Info
www.st-owners.com
But the copper core in the end of the leads can break leaving very little to make contact.
Two things you can do here.
1 Chop off a small amount from the spark plug end. Then screw the cap back on. It screws in about an inch. Mark it on the cable so that you can see. Use silicone lubricant spray or silicone grease to make this easier.
2. Buy a few metres of copper core HT lead and fit that temporarily to test. You will need to fashion something at the coil end for the gland to push against. I managed with glue and string - roughen the HT lead and wind thin chord tightly around the HT lead and superglue the string in place. This is so that when you tighten the gland nut, it pushes the cable onto the spike deep inside the coil body.
Info
ST1300 Poor Running - HT Leads & Plugs - Solved | ST1300 Related
Describing an issue with poor running on my ST1300. Symptoms were engine seemed to be running fine except with little low end power and a sensation of always riding on a rough surface. Revs had to be kept up in order to set off safely. It turned out to be HT leads and plug caps. Details...