Cutting out again

OP
OP
Tdinova
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Just reading through - did you ever change all of the leads ? I know you checked resistance and replaced one.

But the copper core in the end of the leads can break leaving very little to make contact.
Two things you can do here.
1 Chop off a small amount from the spark plug end. Then screw the cap back on. It screws in about an inch. Mark it on the cable so that you can see. Use silicone lubricant spray or silicone grease to make this easier.

2. Buy a few metres of copper core HT lead and fit that temporarily to test. You will need to fashion something at the coil end for the gland to push against. I managed with glue and string - roughen the HT lead and wind thin chord tightly around the HT lead and superglue the string in place. This is so that when you tighten the gland nut, it pushes the cable onto the spike deep inside the coil body.

Info
I replaces all 4 caps and # 3 and 4 leads as #3 cap had the cracks, and #4 had a piece out of the insulation out of the cap.... but yesterday, when I got home I put the bike in the garage right away. Turned it off then turned it back right away and the pump sounded funny, not that high pitch. The bike worked really bad. Also i still have the Tupperware off so i pulled each cap off and made no difference I then turned it off and restarted no high pitch. Then i waited a few mins and restarted and the pump was back to the high pitch.. I pulled each 1 at a time and the bike stumbled as it should..

I usually wear ear plugs to deaden the wind noise. I removed my plugs when she stopped coming home. Talked to Randy then tried the bike, it went so we headed for home with no ear plugs in about 70km.. if I would have kept my plugs in I would not have heard the different pump noise.. . It started this problem on another thread.. and I think I did do the snipping. Let me check
 

Kevcules

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Well......If you heard the fuel pump not prime or start properly, that's a good indicator that it's either faulty, or there is a bad connection in that circuit. That's what is probably happening while riding also, fuel starving your engine. You need an electrical motorcycle guru close by to test the wires in that circuit.
I believe someone already mentioned to install a fuel pressure gauge so that you could see what was it was doing when the problem starts? Did you do that yet?
Good Luck
 

jfheath

John Heath
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Simplified circuit diagram for powering the fuel pump and loads of other info from other contributors.


 
OP
OP
Tdinova
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Had another brain storm.. the service manual says how-to check the volume output. I done it. Over 10oz in 10 secs. Min. is 6.3oz.. so I found the place to measure the dcv leading into the pump. It reads 13.7dcv when running. I'm going to fill my bike and ride until it fails again hopefully not stop. A dcv motor will increase speed when more volts is added to a certain limit and the pump will decrease in speed with less voltage applied.. I'll have my MacGyver meter with me so I can measure the incoming volts to the pump.. ... if the volts is lower that means lower pump volume

Bad part .. it's calling for rain over the next 3-4 days which is a good thing. Nova Scotia right now has 3 out of control forest fires. The one between me and Yarmouth burnt over 14000 Hector of houses and wood land. Another one is near Halifax and that burnt over 200 homes so far.. we have out of country fire fighters coming to help us...
 
OP
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Nice heavy rain all night... yahoo. Fires in Nova Scotia should take a ***** kicking today.

On an even higher note, I re googled possible ST cutting out. The ECT keeps coming up.. . So searched the ST site and my manual for reading and How-To replacement. The service manual says remove throttle body.. The ST site says .... 'you have room' ..
So i tackled it with the gas tank on, not enough room so I removed it was able to remove and measure that suckered.... I'M PRETTY SURE I FOUND IT'
I hope. Ohms show be between 2.3 - 2.6 k ohms.
I got 3.1k ohms... ... it Saturday and Honda closed 1pm and it's 215.. any thoughts...
20230603_140521.jpg

20230603_140145.jpg

20230603_135820.jpg
 

Obo

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Nice heavy rain all night... yahoo. Fires in Nova Scotia should take a excrement kicking today.

On an even higher note, I re googled possible ST cutting out. The ECT keeps coming up.. . So searched the ST site and my manual for reading and How-To replacement. The service manual says remove throttle body.. The ST site says .... 'you have room' ..
So i tackled it with the gas tank on, not enough room so I removed it was able to remove and measure that suckered.... I'M PRETTY SURE I FOUND IT'
I hope. Ohms show be between 2.3 - 2.6 k ohms.
I got 3.1k ohms... ... it Saturday and Honda closed 1pm and it's 215.. any thoughts...
20230603_140521.jpg

20230603_140145.jpg

20230603_135820.jpg
Those numbers are for readings at 20*C. Was it that warm in your workshop today? Only about 5C here. Hate to see you throw more money out if that's not the issue.
 
OP
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Ok . Thanks, Obo, for showing my mistake. Made a video showing the value in 20c water, tol. 2.3k - 2.6k ohms. 1st video was tested at 20c air temp, didn't like it (looks like it failed). Today I MacGyvered a sensor inside 20c water, and I received better reading. The sensor is made for water readings so.. the readings looks ok..,... but it a B$%/h to get at, so I'm ordering a new sensor..
See video
ECT sensor testing in water @20c

went to my local dealer yesterday and asked what's the hourly rate for motorcycle repair $129/hr
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Tdinova
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I ordered the last of my parts today

Plug wires #1 & 2, then all 4 will be changed
ECT sensor
2 coils
Be cheaper to rent a bike
Lots of rain this past few days.. 6 inches so far... and counting
 
OP
OP
Tdinova
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I thought i would do more digging while my parts are on order and not here til next week. I removed the kill switch and started another good clean of the kill switch part... I used electronic cleaner while rocking the switch off and on. I connected my meter to the leads to the switch.. the off part works great, but when I switch it to ON I get a value of 0.7 ohms. Is that good enough or should it read 0.0 ohms.

Here is a video

Ohm check on kill switch
 
Last edited:
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#1702
If you short your leads together, you'll probably get 0.7 ohms, so I wouldn't worry - it's as good as you'll get....... Some meters can be adjusted, but I've never seen one!
Your meter looks like the Kaise I once had...:)
 

Andrew Shadow

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That isn't a very fancy tester so it probably doesn't have a hold or zero feature. To compensate, connect the alligator clips of both leads of the tester together to see what the resistance of your test leads and alligator clips is. Make a note of how many Ohms the tester displays.
When you test your switch, take that OHM reading and deduct the number of Ohms you had when you tested the tester leads and alligator clips.
The difference between the two is the resistance of the switch.

Most of that 0.7 Ohms is probably the resistance of the tester leads and alligator clips.
 
OP
OP
Tdinova
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U are all correct.
0.7 lead to lead

Thanks for all comments. I had a small light tester many years ago then upgraded to a fancy meter.. sometimes the old way is more simpler and easy
 

tnbill

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The ohm meter will not test if it can carry any load. I have seen a wire test ok with a meter with only a couple of strands of wire. The light bulb is a better more accurate test of a circuit.
 
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The ohm meter will not test if it can carry any load. I have seen a wire test ok with a meter with only a couple of strands of wire. The light bulb is a better more accurate test of a circuit.
Not much load needed to trip a relay, right?
 
OP
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Tdinova
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Going deeper.. still raining in the Great White North. Done more searching and I decided to remove the ECM and have a look.. all looked great.. Not much of a challenge removing the parts. I have a OEM PanEuropean top box and I'm going to replace the allen head bolts with stainless steel bolts.. I thought a couple of them were going to round out..
20230607_140848.jpg
 

Igofar

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You do realize the ECM could have been lifted out just by removing the passenger seat, and releasing the rubber band right?
:rofl1:
 
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