John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
The red female plug with the three yellow leads is hardwired directly to the 28amper’s stator which is removed as a unit and discarded.
Last edited:
Bing!!! That's the sound of this wiring stuff suddenly making sense ( Thanks to John O' s wisdom and after studying the links he provided again)! I got the new 96+ wire harness (3210-MAJ-G40) that goes from the alternator to the fused block etc, so won't have to try to rebuild the one on my 94. My one question is, after I remove the VRR and the white male plug end (is male ok to say in this stinking PC world?), snip the right wires (hopefully) and unplug the male end of the red plug, I'll still have the female end of the red plug that just won't be used anymore? Is that correct?
If your white 6P plug to the VRR is in good shape, leave enough length to the wire leads to it so that someone who needs one (theirs is damaged) and is trying to keep a 28amp system working, can splice it into their harness.
Can someone please post an image of the 1996-2002 alt fuse block?
Then what would be wrong with buying a used, 1996 or later, wiring harness from a standard ST1100?
Ned, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.Yep. For folks doing the upgrade with salvage parts, I recommend doing just that.
Ned, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.
For others, (from my alt album) here’s what the 96-02 harness looks like with the fuseblock (a.k.a., fuseable link) attached:
edit: credit image to Joe Urban, STOC 4889
Note: the fuseblock’s black plastic cover with stored spare links isn’t shown, sorry, can’t find an image right now.
Note the black female 2P (w/single black lead) that mounts to the frame in place of the old one, and into which the 28amper’s male 2P (now 1P with the white lead snipped out) plugs.
Also note the short lead from the bottom side of the fuseblock to the common starter-relay/battery connection. This is the only lead that DIYers need to fabricate on their own. As the ring connector to attach it to the starter relay needs to be quite small in order to fit there, the selection of even normally available uninsulated connectors is problematic when trying to crimp one onto 10 AWG wire. BTDT So I recommend running this lead right to the pos+ battery post instead, using larger ring connectors. Much easier and works the same. FWIW
John
Ned, now that the USPS has delivered the 40amp Alternator Upgrade Tool Kit, the documentation package should clear everything up for you.
For others, (from my alt album) here’s what the 96-02 harness looks like with the fuseblock (a.k.a., fuseable link) attached:
edit: credit image to Joe Urban, STOC 4889
Note: the fuseblock’s black plastic cover with stored spare links isn’t shown, sorry, can’t find an image right now.
Note the black female 2P (w/single black lead) that mounts to the frame in place of the old one, and into which the 28amper’s male 2P (now 1P with the white lead snipped out) plugs.
Also note the short lead from the bottom side of the fuseblock to the common starter-relay/battery connection. This is the only lead that DIYers need to fabricate on their own. As the ring connector to attach it to the starter relay needs to be quite small in order to fit there, the selection of even normally available uninsulated connectors is problematic when trying to crimp one onto 10 AWG wire. BTDT So I recommend running this lead right to the pos+ battery post instead, using larger ring connectors. Much easier and works the same. FWIW
John
After comparing my connections to your picture it would seem that I need to change how I connected my red wire.
I sent you info, Chris, but why can’t you juST post it here and get the benefit of the wisdom and experience of the whole community?I John, great pic/info. Is there a way to direct message you with an alternator question?