Front End Instability: Easy, Effective Fix

STBEN

STBEN

Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
23
Location
Boston, MA
I tried loweing the front forks (to raise the front ride height), and that has made a noticeable positive improvement on front end stability. Other than making sure the front tire pressure is pumped up to 42 lbs, I have found this to be the least expensive, but most effective fix out there.

The fork brace helps when the bike is leaned over but doesn't really addres the problem. The steering damper makes the problem less unnerving, but doesn't actually fix it. The tire pressure definitely helped with the front wheel highway dance. But raising the front forks really made the most difference.

I have no doubt stiffer forks springs would work even better. But for now, I've found this to be an effective fix that makes the bike actually enjoyable to ride on the highway. In fact, the effect is so positive, I may not even do the springs.

The front forks extend about 1/8" from the top of the clamp. I asked a Honda dealer to loosen the clamp bolts and drop the fork tubes down 1/8" so that the caps are flush with the top of the clamp. Even having a dealer do it, the cost was only $50 in labor.

So if your having front end instability issues, but you aren't ready to pay for springs, and have them installed, I'd check the tire pressures first. And if that doesn't do it, I'd give this a try. Your experience may vary, but for me it was money well spent....
 
Hmmmmm, I think the tops of the fork legs should have been flush with the top clamp in the first place. IIRC, the service manual describes this position in the front suspension assembly section. I know my ST1300 was delivered new from the dealer set up that way.

Sounds like your bike was set up incorrectly from the start.
 
Yep, mine are flush.. the top caps stick out a little but the tubes themselves are flush.
 
I was going to say mine are flush as well but I didn't know if the original owner did that as I bought my 1300 used.

I was over at Rich R's house on Saturday and we were talking about the new spring kit he installed this winter and how he has raised the forks in the clamps. I think he is close to 1/2" right now above the top clamp and he mentioned he may raise it more. The bike sit a lot higher with the new springs. I got on it to see what his Russel Seat feels like. When I picked up the bike from sidestand I was thinking he still had it loaded down. It felt a lot heavier than my 1300. I think it had to do with the bike being leaned over that much more on the side stand. Also on my bike I have the stock seat on high and high and I can flat foot the bike with both feet while it is on centerstand. While I could still flat foot his bike on the wheels I could tell it was more of a reach for me. That was with his Russel in the middle, middle position. Granted that is a different seat and wider so that may have been part of it. But it felt a lot higher. Personally I liked it but I have 36" Inseams.

He did say the bike corners like it is on rails now. A huge improvement.
 
Did you buy your bike new? I wonder if they did that because they were trying to make the bike a little shorter? Not that 1/8" is going to make a ton of difference.
 
I got the bike from a dealer, but it was used. The prior owner was short (had the seat in the lowest position, I remember), so I guess that's possible. I could have sworn I read in the manual that 1/8" above the clamp was the correct position, so I'm going to double check that too....
 
STBEN said:
I got the bike from a dealer, but it was used. The prior owner was short (had the seat in the lowest position, I remember), so I guess that's possible. I could have sworn I read in the manual that 1/8" above the clamp was the correct position, so I'm going to double check that too....
Click to expand...

It is possible that the previous owner did it then and realized that he/she couldn't lower it enough and traded it in on something else. It looks like you have an 07 so they didn't have it very long.

The dealer probably never thought to look at it.
 
Dropping the yoke down the forks is an old trick to improve turn in and also to lower the bike a tadge.....

Very common over here on the Honda Deauville, known over there of course as the NT700V.

I imagine on a ST1300 it makes it very nervous to ride.......
 
I dropped the clamps 5 mm on my ST1300, it is as far as I could go before the fork tubes hit the handlebars. I did this after I reduced sag 11 mm so I was still 6 mm taller than stock.
 
STBEN, my forks are 1/8" above the triple clamp too. I believe it is to factory spec. I bought my 07 ST1300 used, the previous owner was 6' tall with long legs, no reason for him to lower the bike.

I am thinking to move the fork tubes up even further, say another 3/8" to lower the bike. Does anyone know what will that do to the handling? Someone on this thread said quicker turn-in, what does it mean?

Kenny
 
I wouldn't raise the tubes more, I would lower them so they are flush.

I have the repair manual which shows the tubes about 1/8 inch above the clamp; in the description it just says "align the top end of the fork tube with the upper surface of the top bridge."

Maybe it was the setup instructions. I swear I saw a reference to 1/8 inch somewhere.

Anyway, flush is definitely better for front end stability. And I bet there are others who have the tubes too high....
 
STBEN, have you tried bumping up the preload in the rear shock? This can really help front end handling as well. They're set very soft from the factory.

:06biker: :06biker: :06biker:​
 
I have tried playing with the rear shock, but I actually found less preload to help with the front end highway dance. Regardless, getting the front ride height a little higher definitively does the trick....
 
Raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps does what, boys and girls?

That's right! It effectively decreases the rake angle and decreases the trail. While both make the bike turn in quicker, the downside is a decrease in forward stability. Raising the rear by increasing preload has the same effect.

I noted in another post earlier today that I cured a case of wander by adjusting my preload lower on the fly going down the road yesterday.
 
That is my understanding as well, Tom. Given that this is often cited as an issue with the bike, I think the tubes should always be flush with the top of the clamp. But I bet a lot of people have them sticking out 1/8th inch, like mine were. If those people have issues with front end stability, I think this will be an easy fix for them (along with lowering the rear preload and inflating the front tires to 42 lbs). It was for me!
 
Going with the "picture paints a thousand words" axiom, this is what mine look like.

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Should the outer rim of the fork cap be recessed in the clamp so that its upper edge is flush with the clamp's top surface?
 
Hound said:
Going with the "picture paints a thousand words" axiom, this is what mine look like.

attachment.php


Should the outer rim of the fork cap be recessed in the clamp so that its upper edge is flush with the clamp's top surface?
Click to expand...

That is what mine look like. When I say mine are flush I am talking about the tube not the cap which will still be above the clamp like yours in the photo.
 
Thanks Sennister. I was wondering if it should look like this (photoshopped)...
 

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