sherob
Old Herder of cats.
Ckeckout undergarments or shorts that say "wicking" on them... UnderArmour brand is great for this 
Heat issue above 70
- Thread starter Pall
- Start date
OP
OP
I also found this undergarment: https://ldcomfort.com/store/product.php?productid=3&cat=2&page=1
sherob
Old Herder of cats.
LD is also a good brand as well
Somewhere on another thread there is a discount code for LD orders over $100 - it is for free shipping I believe. Haven't tried any LD stuff yet but I'm planning on ordering 2 pairs of undies and a long sleeve shirt with my birthday cash - too bad it is in October.
Drilling the inner fairings is easy and will help a lot.
robert
robert
Removing them all together is the easiest, and it works! We've been up to 95 now with of course 70% humidity and it's doable if over 30 mph. Lower and it's just hot, but not from the bike.
I'll second the windshield also. with it set low and also in the lowest manual setting you stay the coolest. I'm glad this is how I like to ride anyway. Earplugs are mandatory though on low.
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2004
- Messages
- 343
- Age
- 81
- Location
- Bainbridge Island WA
- Bike
- still deciding
- STOC #
- 1951
Don't take this the wrong way, but seriously if you find the ST to be too hot above 70 you own the wrong motorcycle. I'd consider trading for a BMW R1200RT. I hear they don't have any noticeable heat. You would expect this from an engine with no fairing covering it.
TMUS
MSF Instructor 32 years
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2007
- Messages
- 525
- Age
- 69
- Location
- Quincy, Michigan
- Bike
- 2006 ST1300a(Marvin)
- STOC #
- 7054
OP
OP
As i said before, with my previous bike (Honda Shadow cruiser) i had the same problem and that is why i beleive its the kind of garments that i have that is causing the problem. The cruiser i beleive was well ventilated and anything above 75 was getting to be too warm on the buns. Changing for a BWM will not fix that. Its the discomfort on the buns and that is between the seat and the rider.
What i did, i ordered a pair of LDCOMFORT and we will see if it help. Next step will be a pair of mesh pant from Olympia.. In the meantime i will start removing the inner cowling
just for experience sake and if it does help, then will puch a few holes in them.
One other thing that i mentionned, i removed my Fenda Extenda in the front of the rear tire yesterday and looking at the thing i think it does stop the flow of air from escaping to the back. Did go for a ride but it was only 70, so i could not really tell the difference.
Thanks for your input, a couple of things to try and it should help.
Pall
What i did, i ordered a pair of LDCOMFORT and we will see if it help. Next step will be a pair of mesh pant from Olympia.. In the meantime i will start removing the inner cowling
just for experience sake and if it does help, then will puch a few holes in them.
One other thing that i mentionned, i removed my Fenda Extenda in the front of the rear tire yesterday and looking at the thing i think it does stop the flow of air from escaping to the back. Did go for a ride but it was only 70, so i could not really tell the difference.
Thanks for your input, a couple of things to try and it should help.
Pall
If I lived where you live I wouldn't even bother with a pool. We have one, came with the house. We get some use out of it, the kids mostly, I may get in 20 times a summer.
I just altered my inner cowls. I had removed them 3 months ago and I wanted to get the screws, trim clips, and air sensor back in for rigidity and a more stock setup.
I took the dremel with a cutoff disc and cut a straight line from the top of the radiator forward. This keeps all the mount points (except the 2 per side at the top under storage lids) but still allows the air over the radiator into the engine bay.
I'll see if that's sufficient or if you need that air that goes in on the sides of the radiator. If so, more cutting.
Has to get hot again to test, been nice and cool of late.
a dremil will work nicely im sure but if you don't have one a pair of utility sissors did the job for me. I might have used sheers
Pall: I just applied the product called "Heat Shield" to both fairing pockets. I rode this am for 100miles,in 100-108 temps. I can tell you that my pockets were at least 60-70% cooler! I will apply under the seat next.
The product can be found in one of theses last replys to this thread.
I have not drilled, nor modified anything else with the fairings.
The product can be found in one of theses last replys to this thread.
I have not drilled, nor modified anything else with the fairings.
I also added some window insulating foam from the hardware store to the tank to make a better seal with the front of the seat. It black it has adhesive tape on one side. I put a strip on the tank under the line of where the seat attaches. maybe its a half inch wide and about the same maybe a little less thick. That helped the heat that was coming through that gap. Of course that does nothing for the heat on my legs.
OP
OP
That is one item (Heat Shield) i was considering. It will surely help remove some heat in those pockets.
Thanks for the tip about the insulation foam.
Pall.
Thanks for the tip about the insulation foam.
Pall.
UPDATE! Did get up to 85 today and I felt all the old heat on my legs again.
So the important place to let air in the front is immediately to the right and left of the radiator to blend cool air with the radiator heated air. Just like the HVAC system in a car.
While riding I was feeling around and felt the hot radiator air coming out at the cylinder head and rolling around the fairing onto my legs.
So to those who only added vents, it's not enough. First remove the inners, then work from there.
Tomorrow morning I'll be cutting both inners down to just enough to hold the air sensor, top screw, and 1 or 2 plastic fasteners.
So the important place to let air in the front is immediately to the right and left of the radiator to blend cool air with the radiator heated air. Just like the HVAC system in a car.
While riding I was feeling around and felt the hot radiator air coming out at the cylinder head and rolling around the fairing onto my legs.
So to those who only added vents, it's not enough. First remove the inners, then work from there.
Tomorrow morning I'll be cutting both inners down to just enough to hold the air sensor, top screw, and 1 or 2 plastic fasteners.
have the exhaust sprayed with ceramic coating. a lot of our heat problems come from the configuration of the engine. As the air flows in the front, it has to go somewhere and it will come up thru the seat area an around your legs.
Every bike with full fairings have the same problem. My ST and 08 busa both have coated exhaust and I have no heat problems.
Considering what we spend on these bikes, it is not a big hit on the wallet to coat the exhaust. Wraps and engine paint may work with limited results, but coating is the best way
Every bike with full fairings have the same problem. My ST and 08 busa both have coated exhaust and I have no heat problems.
Considering what we spend on these bikes, it is not a big hit on the wallet to coat the exhaust. Wraps and engine paint may work with limited results, but coating is the best way
patiodadio
Motorcyclist
I don't know if this will help or not..... but here goes. Take a demo ride on a big curiser like the Victory Vision or the H/D Ultra....I know I was thinking of coating / wrapping the pipes. But after riding the Vision and getting back on my ST to ride home.....the ST felt like it had A/C !
I did remove the left side inner fairing and mill two, 1/2 inch wide , 3 inch long slits. This has helped cool the fairing pocket a lot. I don't know if it helped with heat around the seat tho.... maybe.
Take a demo ride on a big curiser like the Victory Vision or the H/D Ultra....I know I was thinking of coating / wrapping the pipes. But after riding the Vision and getting back on my ST to ride home.....the ST felt like it had A/C ! I did remove the left side inner fairing and mill two, 1/2 inch wide , 3 inch long slits. This has helped cool the fairing pocket a lot. I don't know if it helped with heat around the seat tho.... maybe.
So any updates?
I'll give one, I have a little triangle left about the size of your hand left on each side. The right one has the temp sensor, screw, and 2 plastic fasteners.
The left side has the screw and 2 fasteners.
SO....allowing the air up over the radiator keeps the storage bins and top of the engine cooler and air allowed along the sides of the radiator keeps your legs much cooler.
I really question how much the headers are adding to the felt heat on the legs. I've reached down while riding to the opening there and felt nothing.
The heat on your legs is the radiator air coming out at the cylinder heads and flowing onto your legs.
When I read of 1 owner finding a melted air box lower, there needs to be cool air flowing into the engine bay.
I'm also convinced keeping it cooler in there will help the alternator last longer.
I'll give one, I have a little triangle left about the size of your hand left on each side. The right one has the temp sensor, screw, and 2 plastic fasteners.
The left side has the screw and 2 fasteners.
SO....allowing the air up over the radiator keeps the storage bins and top of the engine cooler and air allowed along the sides of the radiator keeps your legs much cooler.
I really question how much the headers are adding to the felt heat on the legs. I've reached down while riding to the opening there and felt nothing.
The heat on your legs is the radiator air coming out at the cylinder heads and flowing onto your legs.
When I read of 1 owner finding a melted air box lower, there needs to be cool air flowing into the engine bay.
I'm also convinced keeping it cooler in there will help the alternator last longer.
All water cooled motorcycles with a full fairing are going to be warmer than air cooled full fairing motorcycles. The heated air coming through the radiator cme back on the rider. Some models are hotter than others.
I own a 1987 BMW K100LT. The fairing and windshield are so good that 40 degrees is pleasant. No air gets to your body or hands. I live in Arkansas and the bike is painful to ride in July, August, early September. The fuel return line are routed behind the raddiator and I have seen the tank temp ay 160+. That will burn your legs. I could ride it for distances at 90 degrees, which would give a behind the fairing temp of around 115. Left leg is hotter. I have heard of left leg blisters in sustain high temp riding.
I just bought a 1991 ST 1100. The bike gets hot, but my body gets plenty air with the Givi shield. I rode it for about an hour yesterday and the air temp was 103 and wasn't terribly uncomfortable.
The BMW is for sale.
I guess my point is about tolerance. If I was hot above 70 degrees, I would ride a half fairing or naked bike. If I needed a fairing an air cooled such as a Guzzi Norge or BMW R1200RT( FUGLY, too expensive, and break too much IMO).
Ralph Sims
I own a 1987 BMW K100LT. The fairing and windshield are so good that 40 degrees is pleasant. No air gets to your body or hands. I live in Arkansas and the bike is painful to ride in July, August, early September. The fuel return line are routed behind the raddiator and I have seen the tank temp ay 160+. That will burn your legs. I could ride it for distances at 90 degrees, which would give a behind the fairing temp of around 115. Left leg is hotter. I have heard of left leg blisters in sustain high temp riding.
I just bought a 1991 ST 1100. The bike gets hot, but my body gets plenty air with the Givi shield. I rode it for about an hour yesterday and the air temp was 103 and wasn't terribly uncomfortable.
The BMW is for sale.
I guess my point is about tolerance. If I was hot above 70 degrees, I would ride a half fairing or naked bike. If I needed a fairing an air cooled such as a Guzzi Norge or BMW R1200RT( FUGLY, too expensive, and break too much IMO).
Ralph Sims