hot bike

Kevcules

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4. Added Air Wings. This is so far, the most improvement I have seen. By adding the Air Wings, ( I made my own, for about 7$), I channel fresh air up to my thigh area, and it seems to move the hot air away.
I've tried to "tame the heat" also , with fair results. The noticeable improvements were raising the seat to the middle position and wearing riding boots. I can reach down and feel how hot my pants get though on hot summer days. Taller boots do make a difference.
Klaproth ,Can you tell us how you made your homemade wings to direct the air onto your legs in the summer? I'd like to try that next....
thanks
 
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Moses2
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2013 Honda ST1300 PA
I've ordered a bead rider cover, and I will be trying my seat on the highest adjustment.
 

Kevcules

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I've ordered a bead rider cover, and I will be trying my seat on the highest adjustment.
If you have the legs for it, go for it! My 32" inseam prevents me from using the high seat setting..... I tippy toe on the middle setting also, mostly because of my RDL saddle I think.
 
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Auckland, New Zealand
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2005 ST1300
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8901
I think the 1300's heat issue is a result of the very tight squeeze between the frame spars, secondary tank and engine; there's just nowhere for the hot air to escape out the back. The 1100 shares the same general layout but the tube frame and plastic skin allowed air to flow back under the seat and out past the rear wheel. The 1100 also has the air tubes from the faring nose that push cool air to the undertank area and probably help to keep it and the rider cool. I have insulated the underside of the tank, and removed most of the inner cowls and that made a bit of a difference. I find riding with textiles plus the liner is the most comfortable for me, but on really hot days (over 25C) I'd much rather ride my VTR1000...
 
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P.E.I., Canada
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2005 st1300
I think the 1300's heat issue is a result of the very tight squeeze between the frame spars, secondary tank and engine; there's just nowhere for the hot air to escape out the back. The 1100 shares the same general layout but the tube frame and plastic skin allowed air to flow back under the seat and out past the rear wheel. The 1100 also has the air tubes from the faring nose that push cool air to the undertank area and probably help to keep it and the rider cool. I have insulated the underside of the tank, and removed most of the inner cowls and that made a bit of a difference. I find riding with textiles plus the liner is the most comfortable for me, but on really hot days (over 25C) I'd much rather ride my VTR1000...
This...
I have read numerous reports of removing the inner cowls and having an effect, some subtle, some more pronounced. This makes sense as it would create airflow under the fairings to help take heat away. Normally, the only air that gets in behind the fairings gets funnelled through the hot rad. One just has to watch their temps to make sure that the decrease in air over the rad doesnt have an adverse effect on temps. Until this past year, I found my ST to be on the warm side, but not to the extent others have experienced. That changed this past year but I have been looking at another issue and may have found the problem. I am going to "ventilate" my inner cowls before I put them back in this year either way. Cant hurt
 
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Moses2
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If you have the legs for it, go for it! My 32" inseam prevents me from using the high seat setting..... I tippy toe on the middle setting also, mostly because of my RDL saddle I think.
Yes, I'm alot of legs. 34" inseam. I'll try just the beads first, maybe.
 
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removing the inner cowls
I don't think I have a particularly hot ST13,,, but I decided to take my inner cowls out, shortly after getting the bike. Like many others,,, I never put them back in. Takes 20 minutes to do. Allows a ton of cooler air to dilute the hot air surrounding the engine. If you don't like the results,,, just put the inner cowls back in, which takes another whole 20 minutes. I have seen some fancy cutout efforts on the cowls,,, and even on the outer fairings, (gosh,, I could never cut my outer fairings). But I can guarantee that filling the inner cowls with holes and a few slots will never flow as much air around the rad, as simply taking the inner cowls out. Do the simple stuff first and see if you like results,,, if you don't, then put 'em back. Also,, for long legged pilots,,, realize that moving the seat up can open up a hot air channel that allows hot air to be sucked into the crotch zone (sing: "chestnuts roasting on an open fire") by the natural low pressure region between your torso and the dash. With my 30" inseam,,, I don't have this problem,,, but I have seen a tank to seat gap blocked up with piece of round foam pipe insulation. Again,,, easy to test and if you don't like the results,,, you are only out 10 minutes work and 99 cents worth of pipe foam. I ride locally with ankle boots and bare shins in the summer heat. So I don't believe that a hot bike can not be cured,,, cheers,, CAt'
 
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Canton, GA
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Klaproth ,Can you tell us how you made your homemade wings to direct the air onto your legs in the summer? I'd like to try that next....
thanks
I'll try to get some pictures later today, our internet is not working well, ( Windstream), but I'll get a few pictures, and add some instructions. Can't beat the price.
 
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Moses2
Joined
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70
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I don't think I have a particularly hot ST13,,, but I decided to take my inner cowls out, shortly after getting the bike. Like many others,,, I never put them back in. Takes 20 minutes to do. Allows a ton of cooler air to dilute the hot air surrounding the engine. If you don't like the results,,, just put the inner cowls back in, which takes another whole 20 minutes. I have seen some fancy cutout efforts on the cowls,,, and even on the outer fairings, (gosh,, I could never cut my outer fairings). But I can guarantee that filling the inner cowls with holes and a few slots will never flow as much air around the rad, as simply taking the inner cowls out. Do the simple stuff first and see if you like results,,, if you don't, then put 'em back. Also,, for long legged pilots,,, realize that moving the seat up can open up a hot air channel that allows hot air to be sucked into the crotch zone (sing: "chestnuts roasting on an open fire") by the natural low pressure region between your torso and the dash. With my 30" inseam,,, I don't have this problem,,, but I have seen a tank to seat gap blocked up with piece of round foam pipe insulation. Again,,, easy to test and if you don't like the results,,, you are only out 10 minutes work and 99 cents worth of pipe foam. I ride locally with ankle boots and bare shins in the summer heat. So I don't believe that a hot bike can not be cured,,, cheers,, CAt'
Cat, I'm with you . Easy stuff first. I'll try removing the inner cowl. I have a bead rider arriving in a couple days. Thanks . I'll post what I think.
 
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Moses2
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
97
Age
70
Location
Cobleskill NY
Bike
2013 Honda ST1300 PA
I don't think I have a particularly hot ST13,,, but I decided to take my inner cowls out, shortly after getting the bike. Like many others,,, I never put them back in. Takes 20 minutes to do. Allows a ton of cooler air to dilute the hot air surrounding the engine. If you don't like the results,,, just put the inner cowls back in, which takes another whole 20 minutes. I have seen some fancy cutout efforts on the cowls,,, and even on the outer fairings, (gosh,, I could never cut my outer fairings). But I can guarantee that filling the inner cowls with holes and a few slots will never flow as much air around the rad, as simply taking the inner cowls out. Do the simple stuff first and see if you like results,,, if you don't, then put 'em back. Also,, for long legged pilots,,, realize that moving the seat up can open up a hot air channel that allows hot air to be sucked into the crotch zone (sing: "chestnuts roasting on an open fire") by the natural low pressure region between your torso and the dash. With my 30" inseam,,, I don't have this problem,,, but I have seen a tank to seat gap blocked up with piece of round foam pipe insulation. Again,,, easy to test and if you don't like the results,,, you are only out 10 minutes work and 99 cents worth of pipe foam. I ride locally with ankle boots and bare shins in the summer heat. So I don't believe that a hot bike can not be cured,,, cheers,, CAt'
Cat, because I have not removed any body work on this bike (or any) before, could you explain removing the inner cowls in some detail?
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
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Reedville, Va
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'01 ST11
For what it's worth, this air deflector is the only thing that made a difference to me. check out this post:


Andy
 

Coop

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The cats on my ST put out alot of heat. After I went to Staintunes the I got relief.
 
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ST Gui

240Robert
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(gosh,, I could never cut my outer fairings)
I hear ya. No hole saws to the Tup inner or especially outer. But— is somebody made some elegant scoops or ducts that would be a definite maybe for me. The question would then become where is that air going to go. But it would look cool. And maybe they could be made to have that very cool Airwolf sound at speed.
 
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Hah,,, I guess most of us here have a shot at remembering what Airwolf sounded like !! You have me searching out a Youtube trailer for the tv show. But last week, I installed an Innovv C5 dashcam, which is mounted under the pillion's seat. It's internal mic is not the greatest,,, and it amplifies the ST's "turbine whine" !! It is a bit much,,, so I ordered an external mic for it today, to help boost someone's economy, and allow me to create better audio and/or narration,,, cheers all,,, CAt'
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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so I ordered an external mic for it today, to help boost someone's economy, and allow me to create better audio and/or narration,
Well done on several levels. Watching some of these ride videos on the YT I don't understand why the author feels it's good to have loud bike had wind noises assaulting our ears. Maybe Noraly does it in post but I never notice the bike in her vids.
 
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I am going to order a new front tire tomorrow. I won't need to install it until July/August. But I figure Pete's Superbike and a bunch of other dealers like them, will be glad for the business during these difficult days. Cheers,, CAt'
 

Kevcules

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Cat, because I have not removed any body work on this bike (or any) before, could you explain removing the inner cowls in some detail?
I'm sure cat will respond to your request. I'll try to help.....

If you look at the front of your bike, where the radiator is, there is a black air deflecting plastic piece on each side of the rad. It's function is to direct air through the rad. You can remove these , as Cat suggested, by removing the one upper bolt and three or four plastic push rivets for each piece on each side. Taking off the lower plastic cowl (center) and the front wheel makes it easier if I remember correctly.
Careful with re-installing the front wheel if you remove it, there is a specific sequence of steps to follow when putting it back together.
Here is a picture on one of them....
 

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Igofar

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Most of the corrosion and wire junction issues I see under the left side of the body panels were caused by removing the cowls, cutting or drilling holes, etc.
But folks always think they know more than folks who built the bikes :rofl1:

image001.jpg
 
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