I think I need a new transmission on my 2009 st1300 i just bought...

Igofar

Igofar

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I’ve seen some that made a lot of warning signs and noise, and others just stretch quickly and start banging again ST’s the housing.
Not a nice sound.
I’m also waiting to see what happens, and what is found.
 
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James Barnett

James Barnett

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still jammed in second, and no vibration on the stand when the motor is revving and it's in second, rear wheel spinning pretty quickly. I've been slowly taking the bike apart, getting ready to swap the engine trans with a junkyard one. I was pulling out the throttle body today when I ran into a little difficulty. It was difficult to pry the throttle body up off the rubber sleeves, even after I really loosened the bolts. After I put a slight dent in the throttle body from prying too hard, I decided to go a different route, and I bought 8 bolts I could screw into the throttle body/ air cleaner screw holes. I pried it up with that instead, and did no more damage to the throttle body. It's easier to pry throttle body off one cylinder at a time. that's half inch plywood an old scaffold tube, and a prybar. I actually used another smaller pry bar to pry it loose from the outside edges of the plywood.
 

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James Barnett

James Barnett

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V4 Rider said:
The symptoms you list sound very similar to those from an almost siezed gear selector linkage knuckle joints.

Have you checked the knuckle joints ?
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yes I have. I've removed cleaned, greased and replaced one boot cover I ripped during the process. Also a new CSC, also rebuilt the clutch master cylinder. Test drove it and it drove great, really smooth, UNTIL I shifted up to 4th gear, where it slammed back into 2nd about a second after going into 4th. Which is what it's done before. Stuck in 2nd still. Can't find neutral. The back wheel still spins well, with no vibration in 2nd up on the stand, even if I rev the motor. Which is why I'm thinking it may not be the ujoint, but I'll also check that as I remove the motor, it probably needs replacement soon or now anyway.
 
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James Barnett

James Barnett

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the first couple times it happened I could roll the wheel back and forth and finally get it into neutral. This time I couldn't get it back into neutral. We'll see what's going on in the next few days. I felt like I had to get this motor, as it comes from a non police bike, same year, with less miles and a good trans, and the price just got dropped.
 
STRider

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James Barnett said:
still jammed in second, and no vibration on the stand when the motor is revving and it's in second, rear wheel spinning pretty quickly. I've been slowly taking the bike apart, getting ready to swap the engine trans with a junkyard one. I was pulling out the throttle body today when I ran into a little difficulty. It was difficult to pry the throttle body up off the rubber sleeves, even after I really loosened the bolts. After I put a slight dent in the throttle body from prying too hard, I decided to go a different route, and I bought 8 bolts I could screw into the throttle body/ air cleaner screw holes. I pried it up with that instead, and did no more damage to the throttle body. It's easier to pry throttle body off one cylinder at a time. that's half inch plywood an old scaffold tube, and a prybar. I actually used another smaller pry bar to pry it loose from the outside edges of the plywood.
Click to expand...
I think you just voided your warranty... :)
 
Swede

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James Barnett said:
yes. Igofar and others think it's the Ujoint. We'll see, probably in the next week if I can procrastinate on my day job enough!
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I'm not of that opinion, I have the suspicion it's going to be in the gearbox but, if it were mine, I'd get the back wheel out and the swinging arm (check drive shaft joints though I don't think it's that) and then see if you can get the back gearbox casing off. It seems you can on the 1100. If you can, get it off and see if there is anything wrong with the selector mechanism. If there is no problem there, then carry on with removing the engine/gearbox. You will have wasted very little time as the swinging arm has to come out anyway!.... Swede.
 
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James Barnett

James Barnett

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oude geit said:
Have you checked the spindle, shift drum.
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I haven't yet. I've already bought an entire engine/trans, because it was the same year and in really good shape and pretty cheap. 640.00. But I would like to open up the old trans and figure out what is wrong. I broke one of the knock sensors taking it off the old motor today. Can't believe it's 100 bucks!
 
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James Barnett

James Barnett

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So in taking out the old motor, I found some heat damaged wiring on top of the engine, and also a heat damaged coolant tube that went to the oil cooler. It had to have been reducing coolant flow to the oil cooler. Maybe the engine oil got too hot, and trans was affected? Who knows, but the final drivetrain looked great, as did the clutch master and slave. The place I got the motor from was themotoguys in aneheim California. They provided a clean motor at a decent price, and I got it quickly. Here's a photo of the bike taken apart. Pretty messy, I didn't label much, my goal is to get it all back together before I forget what goes where...
 

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Rhubarbray

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$640 for the complete engine? IMHO not worth getting into the other transmission for that price. For curiosity sake, sure. I quickly checked prices and gears are $80-100 each, (you should buy them in pairs), a shift drum is roughly $100, shift forks are $45-50 each and odds are they'll all have wear on them. If you only replace two gears, ( ie 3rd and 4th ) you are now just about at the price of your replacement engine. A deal I'd say.
And now you have a spare engine for parts. Alternator, starter, valve shims, etc.
 
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James Barnett

James Barnett

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I put the new engine in today. It's a very tight fit, but if you lower the frame onto the engine, and kind of wiggle it all around as it descends, it does go in, even though at times you think there's just no way... I used two little come alongs above the bike and floor jack underneath, and a little jack that might not be in any photo. And many pry bars. On my bike, many wires are in really bad shape. Brittle insulation, some chunks of insulation even missing. I'm trying to tape it up as much as possible. A new wiring harness is not in the cards right now, or maybe ever. Everything else looks pretty good, the new engine seems so much better than the old one, and the old one didn't seem that bad.
 

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