I think I need a new transmission on my 2009 st1300 i just bought...

[James Barnett]

Monday I drove it back from the auction site in Olympia WA to my garage in Seattle. This is an ex police motorcycle with 64,000 miles. Fluids are clean, bike seems well maintained, but ridden hard. I got to Tacoma before I downshifted from 5th to third during traffic slowdown, and it got stuck in I think 2nd and I couldn't get it out of 2nd. I towed it back to Seattle, where I got it into neutral, lubed the shifter linkage, and drove it around. Shifting from 3rd to 4th it got stuck in 1st or 2nd. I can't get it out of gear. I know the clutch works, because I can still drive it. Clutch feels good. No obvious leaks anywhere. Gear shifter arm has a little bit of play in it, but I believe this is normal. I see no information in this forum about swapping transmissions, either junkyard or new. That leads me to think that my problem might be other than transmission, but I'm not seeing how it can be. One clue that it might actually be the clutch: I put the bike up on the center stand while it was stuck in gear, and started it. When the clutch was squeezed fully I could stop the back wheel from spinning with my hand, but it would not stop on it's own. If this is normal for this motorcycle, then I'm thinking the clutch is probably ok and it's the transmission. When I squeeze the clutch and depress the shifter, I hear a solid click. Then when I squeeze the clutch and pull up on the shifter, I faintly feel a movement, but no solid click. After this I can then depress the shifter and feel the solid click. No other positions are available. Thanks for reading this post, James Barnett

 

[ST1100Y]

Probably the spring #10 or #13 broken, maybe #12 bend...
In either way it'll require cracking the case open for circling down the problem...

 

[Kevcules]

There have been problems with the clutch slave cylinder in our bikes. Im not sure how to check that either but lack of fluid changes makes them die a young age. Consider that before the transmission.
Others will swing by and hopefully give you some pointers to test it.
Good luck

 

[Obo]

Welcome to the forum! Sorry you're having an issue with a new to you bike!

I'd spend some time and recheck the shifter linkage, as they can stick. I'd then do as Kevcules said before jumping into ripping into the transmission internals.

 

[The Dan]

Flush the clutch fluid first. Easy to try.

 

[Upt' North]

Welcome to the forum! Sorry you're having an issue with a new to you bike!

I'd spend some time and recheck the shifter linkage, as they can stick. I'd then do as Kevcules said before jumping into ripping into the transmission internals.

I'm with Obo on this, if you've only sprayed it without removing it then it could still be the linkage. I'm not sure how the 13 links up but the 11 needs the joints flushing out and lubing now and again.
If you've already done that, good, your clutch sounds OK to me, and you, the tyre spinning is normal, or at least my 11 does it.
After that you can try a fluid change but I'm not thinkin that's your problem. But it's cheap, easy and may just work.
If it doesn't post on here for a wanted gearbox that is known to be OK.
I'm guessing you'll have a long enough winter in WA to sort it.
Good luck.
Upt'North.

 

[Sadlsor]

WCP?

 

[RaYzerman]

I agree on the above, remove shifter linkage and grease properly. Definitely bleed the clutch. Check the brass bushing in the clutch lever that it is not scored/worn oval. These are all common maintenance items.
Transmission last..... I'm kinda doubtful it's got a problem.

 

[James Barnett]

There have been problems with the clutch slave cylinder in our bikes. Im not sure how to check that either but lack of fluid changes makes them die a young age. Consider that before the transmission.
Others will swing by and hopefully give you some pointers to test it.
Good luck

thank you! I've read the article on clutch slave cylinder replacement and plan on doing it after engine oil change and clutch and brake fluid flush.

 

[James Barnett]

Probably the spring #10 or #13 broken, maybe #12 bend...
In either way it'll require cracking the case open for circling down the problem...

 

[James Barnett]

this sounds like an interesting possibility.

 

[MaxPete]

thank you! I've read the article on clutch slave cylinder replacement and plan on doing it after engine oil change and clutch and brake fluid flush.

As pointed out by the other folks, it is unlikely to be the transmission on a Honda ST bike. These things seem to be virtually bulletproof and impervious to miles ridden. In fact, I’m not sure that I have ever seen ANY articles or reports of a failed ST1300 transmission (similarly, ST1300 engine problems seem to be extremely rare at least on this forum).

However, the clutch slave cylinder (CSC) is a known trouble spot and I’d suggest that you simply use the article as a guide to changing it. Also, there are definitely reports of seized or worn out shift linkages (check out the YouTube channel Old Guy on a Bike) and the symptoms sound similar to those which you report. In fact, he ALSO had a clutch slave cylinder problem but the overall effect was big problems with shifting gears.

As for a clutch fluid flush, quite honestly, I doubt that would fix the problem if it is related to your CSC. The usual failure mode is that the slave cylinder seal gets chewed-up and fails due to abrasion from crap that gets into the cavity between the cylinder body and the engine block. As a result, the slave cylinder does not achieve its full stroke and the clutch is therefore not fully disengaged when you pull the lever and try to shift gears.

Flushing the fluid won’t fix that - you need a new slave cylinder (cost ~$100 USD or less I’d guess) and about three hours of lying on your back under the bike.

The cure for a linkage problem is to either replace the linkage or at least remove it and clean / lubricate ALL of it. The cost would be minimal for a lube job and the time even less than the CSC replacement.

NOTE: be sure to mark the position of each splined lever and the lengths of exposed threads on all of the spherical (aka Heim) joints so that everything goes back together exactly right.

A full repair of the shift linkage would be the first thing I would try and then, a replacement of the clutch slave cylinder (in that order) - before digging into the transmission itself.

Please keep us posted.

 

[Igofar]

I’m your huckleberry

 

[Kevcules]

thank you! I've read the article on clutch slave cylinder replacement and plan on doing it after engine oil change and clutch and brake fluid flush.

Good to hear.
Once you have replaced the CSC by following the excellent article "how to" on here and discussing it with others if needed, go to your local Honda dealership just for fun and ask them how they would do it and how much they charge.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Many clutch related problems can be fixed with a thorough bleeding of the clutch hydraulic system. It is cheap and easy to do as part of your diagnostic procedure.

Many similar problems have been due to the clutch lever bushing being worn or incorrectly assembled. Disassembling, cleaning, lubricating and possibly replacing the bushing if worn, and making sure that the actuating lever is correctly installed in the bushing solves many problems. See the below thread to get an idea of what is involved.
Clutch Lever Parts Replacement

Many problems with shifting, the lack thereof, and the ability to shift in to first and second gear only have turned out to be seized, or seizing, Heim joints of the shifter linkage. The below article on how to fix that is for an ST1100 but the ST1300 is pretty much identical.
ST1100 - Shift Linkage Tune-up

The clutch slave cylinder can also be the cause, but checking the above first is much easier and cheaper before you go there.

 

[ToddC]

I agree with everyone here so far.
But do remember that these bikes are used to chase speeders along the Hyway. Lots of second gear high speed, high revs to catch up with the speeder. Second gear takes a hit and the gears wear out. Something to think about. Over 60k on the clock..... If I recall correctly, those symptoms are popping out of second gear, not getting stuck in it.
T

 

[Ron]

As mentioned above, look at the brass bushing in the lever. The part is about $15. Keep in mind that the nut on the pivot bolt is a jam nut. remove it first. The housing is threaded.

 

[Igofar]

Standing by the

 

[Ron]

@[U]James Barnett[/U]-OP--PM Igofar by hovering the cursor over "Igofar" in the avatar and clicking on the "start conversation". His response will be noted in the upper right corner with a number on the envelope.

 

[James Barnett]

WCP?

I'm not sure what WCP is... but that is undoubtedly the problem!