Lubrication & practice will hopefully make it easy.
Putting ST1300 on center stand
- Thread starter Steviee7
- Start date
I wouldn't even consider putting it on the centerstand in that situation.
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- 12/04 ST 1300s
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- 000420
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I do it all the time, but I'm very careful when I take it off.
Every time somebody talks about picking up an ST from a tip over somebody else posts the video of a woman righting a GW or a 12you girl doing the same as though it's an apples to apples comparison. It's not. It's more like oranges to guavas.
If an ST and GW were both leaned over to their respective TOBs I bet the ST would be lower (closer to the ground) and therefore require more effort to right than from the same angle as the GW. I also believe the weight distribution of the GW compared to an ST also contributes to an easier chore.
There's no getting around the physics. Whether righting an ST or putting it on the center stand, physical strength is needed and it's the same amount for everyone if the bike's weight is a constant. IRL that weight varies so the effort required varies as well.
Traditionally a bike is raised or lifted onto the stand then rolled back slightly to lock it in place. As pointed out the raising/lifting is done with the leg and not the arm. It's no mystery. Increase the distant between the center stand tang/lever and the hand hold (or any other purchase point) sufficiently and the bike can be rocked back to the resting position. With enough enthusiasm it "parks" itself no rocking required.
There are those who's weight on the center stand tang/lever alone is sufficient enough to pop the bike up and into position with a hand on the upper handle unnecessary. That's not me.
I'm sure the minimal required effort can be measured on a given ST (or any other bike). I can provide it – I just don't enjoy it but it would be an interesting metric to know. And I've done it with a pair of Clarks loafers and don't enjoy that either. So it's a 1/2" board and empty upper tank (not to mention solid soles) and I'm good with that.
I thought you were wearing crocs ... oh wait, that was Dave's (@dduelin ) demo
I had two female employees, both of which weighed around 120-125Lbs and were around 5'6". The method we taught our people was to turn the handlebars pointing straight ahead getting as close to your bike as you can with your feet parallel to the bike. Squat down and put your hip into the side of the saddle. Using your hip and quads, push sideways into the motorcycle until it rights itself. Use your foot to bring the kickstand down and set the bike down. It really doesn't take much effort when done correctly. The bikes we used all had luggage bars which keeps the bike from going over as far as one without. They have to get good at righting their own because in training, you are required to right your own motorcycle and pick up any cones you knock over. We also taught them how to bump start their own bike. This made them choose more wisely where they parked their bike every time.Every time somebody talks about picking up an ST from a tip over somebody else posts the video of a woman righting a GW or a 12you girl doing the same as though it's an apples to apples comparison. It's not. It's more like oranges to guavas.
If an ST and GW were both leaned over to their respective TOBs I bet the ST would be lower (closer to the ground) and therefore require more effort to right than from the same angle as the GW. I also believe the weight distribution of the GW compared to an ST also contributes to an easier chore.
There's no getting around the physics. Whether righting an ST or putting it on the center stand, physical strength is needed and it's the same amount for everyone if the bike's weight is a constant. IRL that weight varies so the effort required varies as well.
Traditionally a bike is raised or lifted onto the stand then rolled back slightly to lock it in place. As pointed out the raising/lifting is done with the leg and not the arm. It's no mystery. Increase the distant between the center stand tang/lever and the hand hold (or any other purchase point) sufficiently and the bike can be rocked back to the resting position. With enough enthusiasm it "parks" itself no rocking required.
There are those who's weight on the center stand tang/lever alone is sufficient enough to pop the bike up and into position with a hand on the upper handle unnecessary. That's not me.
I'm sure the minimal required effort can be measured on a given ST (or any other bike). I can provide it – I just don't enjoy it but it would be an interesting metric to know. And I've done it with a pair of Clarks loafers and don't enjoy that either. So it's a 1/2" board and empty upper tank (not to mention solid soles) and I'm good with that.
Kevcules
Site Supporter
It's easy. Hold the lift bar with your right hand and push your foot through the floor.
Ryan_B
Site Supporter
I park with the front wheel on one of my work mats that are close to my bench. I didn't realize that it was lifting the front a little, which helped greatly putting it on the center stand (the stand is off the mat). I think I figured out at work one day when I had to put more "umph" into getting the stand down what was going on. Looks similar to this:
-Ryan
-Ryan
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I just start to roll backwards , lift on the handle as I step on the pedal . Do it at the end of every ride for storage.
But some people have nicknamed me "Hoss" in the past ....
But some people have nicknamed me "Hoss" in the past ....
I ride into the garage, push the side-stand down, let 'er rest on it, and swing my right leg off.
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In that order???
I could never get off the bike with the side-stand up.
I can but don't. It's just so easy not to.
Holy Smoked Tenderloin!! Boy did I goof that up ... original corrected !In that order???
Haven't read all the posts on that, so maybe was already mentioned before, but proper sag setting is big help getting the bike on the CS.
Nope.
So, you're gonna readjust SAG to put the bike on the centerstand, then readjust again when off for a ride?
Personally, the effort for thay, compared to the two best options already mentioned, isn't worth it.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
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- 9065
It's my understanding that setting the sag is a one-time deal, unless you want to fiddle with the bike's geometry.
Suspension sag is designed to put the bike in a neutral position, to allow optimum operation of the front forks / springs and the rear shock and is your "baseline." Using the bike's limited suspension options shouldn't require further adjustment - the sag is still in the "optimum" range.
Aftermarket cartridge emulators, or shock, may require resetting the sag - but not simply riding on different road surfaces.
Again, ...It's my understanding.
Not what I meant to say.
rogo
Site Supporter
I typically use CS for maintenance only. Cranking up the pre-load maybe twice a year is not much hassle, and that extra clearance works well.
I also keep a scrap piece of 3/4” nylon block in the L/H pocket.
I also keep a scrap piece of 3/4” nylon block in the L/H pocket.
It's been a couple of weeks and now it's a snap . . . easier than the Wing. The bike pops up on the centerstand even will full bags + hatbox. 95% in the step