ST 1100 headlights H4 (euro)

[kiltman]

It might depend on where the wiring diagram that you are looking at came from.

Point taken. My source is Clymers pg 604, pg 614, pg 626, 632 I looked in the Clymers wiring diagrams that list different countries years and models. what is interesting is the standard models for all years has both low beams headlights coming on, whereas the models designated 1100A only have the single low beam coming on.

 

[Larry Fine]

From what I remember, the both-lights-on models simply have each filament in both bulbs in parallel on each relay.

The single-light-on models have one bulb wired directly from the hi-lo switch, and the other bulb switched by relays.

I don't remember whether the hi-only bulb is the one directly switched or relay switched.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I found this on Amazon. It's a 9005 style bulb

The F2 is actually available in almost all of the various bulb base configurations. It is also sold under many different brand names. As a result, I don't know if it is a designation of the bulb design type, a model designation, or a marketing moniker.

 

[JJames]

I opened up and had a look at the back of the head lamp(s). the problem with low beam pointing -low to the left ,was due to the retaining wire , it was not hooked on, holding the bulb in place. The High beam side connector (right side) only has two leads . This version is not ment to have 2 low beam bulbs, the Clymer schematic confirms it. Not sure what to do -leave it original or try a H4 splitter ? Don't want to fry anything ! Not to crazy about wiring up new relay either . I'll sleep on it.

 

[rwthomas1]

You will have to investigate and see what bulbs are fitted. It might be that it doesn't take two H4 bulbs, but one low and one high, or some other configuration. Assuming two identical high/low bulbs can be fitted, is really a simple thing to wire them up in parallel with two relays. The relay wiring harness can be made completely plug and play, with now factory wiring cut so the bike can be returned to the stock configuration easily. This is how mine is done. RT

 

[ST Gui]

F2 is a brand name. F2 and Katana and others make bulbs in the various configurations/designations of H1/H2/HB3/H4 etc.

There's no particular designation for the configuration that makes the F2 or Katana the H4 bulb of choice — the configuration of the two LED emitters and the addition of a shield to shape the beam into a very functional non glaring pattern. (See the result in the F2 pic shown.) The whole concept of the emitter location and inclusion of the shield is based on the hard work and extensive knowledge and experience of spiderman302.

The staggered array and shield combination first appeared in the Evitek G6 where spidey worked his magic with a major Chinese manufacture. I think the F2 brand hails from Evitek as a successor to the G6 with a slightly different beam pattern

Regardless - that design has appeared as rebadged under a few different names. There are other brands selling an H4 configuration that is dissimilar to the F2/Katana configuration possibly/probably not as street-friendly to oncoming traffic and a beam not as useful to the rider.

Having used both 45/45W and and 60/55W H4 halogen bulbs in my ST I can say the G6 precursors to the F2/Kantana configuration is far superior to halogens in both low and high beam operation.

I put a set of 9007 Katanas in my car (same configuration different designation) and am equally amazed and impressed with their performance over the stock 60/55W halogens.

I don't ride much at night but think this is a very worthwhile upgrade for anybody who does. Obviously newer cars and bikes are also embracing LED tech as well.

 

[ST Gui]

the problem with low beam pointing -low to the left ,was due to the retaining wire , it was not hooked on, holding the bulb in place.

That explains the loose feeling when touching the bulb. Good you got that sorted.

The High beam side connector (right side) only has two leads . This version is not ment to have 2 low beam bulbs, the Clymer schematic confirms it.

That's that as far as why one low beam appears "out".

You could add a new 3-wire socket to accommodate a hi/low bulb. I'd add a relay triggered by the low beam of the other bulb. So this would be a splitter of sorts but with wire and switching to handle the current without producing a smoke-test.

It would be a pretty straight-forward installation. Apparently there's no rules of the road violation with dual low beams where you are? If there are now other bikes with dual low beams your mod would certainly be a non-issue.

As far as not being crazy about wiring a relay - there's lot of experienced help here who could walk you through it with baby steps if you prefer. It's worked for me! Fortunately my ST1300 had dual hi/low lights from the factory.

 

[JJames]

F2 is a brand name. F2 and Katana and others make bulbs in the various configurations/designations of H1/H2/HB3/H4 etc.

There's no particular designation for the configuration that makes the F2 or Katana the H4 bulb of choice — the configuration of the two LED emitters and the addition of a shield to shape the beam into a very functional non glaring pattern. (See the result in the F2 pic shown.) The whole concept of the emitter location and inclusion of the shield is based on the hard work and extensive knowledge and experience of spiderman302.

The staggered array and shield combination first appeared in the Evitek G6 where spidey worked his magic with a major Chinese manufacture. I think the F2 brand hails from Evitek as a successor to the G6 with a slightly different beam pattern

Regardless - that design has appeared as rebadged under a few different names. There are other brands selling an H4 configuration that is dissimilar to the F2/Katana configuration possibly/probably not as street-friendly to oncoming traffic and a beam not as useful to the rider.

Having used both 45/45W and and 60/55W H4 halogen bulbs in my ST I can say the G6 precursors to the F2/Kantana configuration is far superior to halogens in both low and high beam operation.

I put a set of 9007 Katanas in my car (same configuration different designation) and am equally amazed and impressed with their performance over the stock 60/55W halogens.

I don't ride much at night but think this is a very worthwhile upgrade for anybody who does. Obviously newer cars and bikes are also embracing LED tech as well.

Thanks for a good run down about what an F2 LED is . I'll order a pair , I see the high beam is 72 watts - thats not a problem on the ST ?

That explains the loose feeling when touching the bulb. Good you got that sorted.


That's that as far as why one low beam appears "out".

You could add a new 3-wire socket to accommodate a hi/low bulb. I'd add a relay triggered by the low beam of the other bulb. So this would be a splitter of sorts but with wire and switching to handle the current without producing a smoke-test.

It would be a pretty straight-forward installation. Apparently there's no rules of the road violation with dual low beams where you are? If there are now other bikes with dual low beams your mod would certainly be a non-issue.

As far as not being crazy about wiring a relay - there's lot of experienced help here who could walk you through it with baby steps if you prefer. It's worked for me! Fortunately my ST1300 had dual hi/low lights from the factory.

I would not recommend trying to change a head lamp bulb for the first time , on the side of the road. I do think I could do now, with out any problems . I've switched to some high quality bulbs on both lamps . I found some old bosch connectors and a relay in my parts drawer , now both lamps have three leads. I'm waiting for a "pigyback" connector - to trigger the relay, then I should have two Low beams

 

[Larry Fine]

I see the high beam is 72 watts - thats not a problem on the ST ?

That's per pair; and, no. Even if it was each, two are about the same current as one halogen.

 

[spiderman302]

Evitek is one of many OEM fabricators of LED bulbs. They make the F2, M1, M2, T2, E9, NB35 and many others. They sell to many vendors and will make custom boxes for each vendor. You have to look at the details of the bulb to make sure you are getting the right one. Since the rest of the world does not have rules like we do, they still make and sell the old poorly designed bulbs. There are also inferior clones of the F2 bulbs from other OEMs. The best beam pattern is still created by the F2 (M1) style design. Katana and Nineo are selling the Evitek F2, Safego is selling the Evitek M1 on amazon. F2 is 32 watts and the M1 (mini) is 28 watts measured.

 

[Larry Fine]

Spidey, the yellow box with the wing is Evitek, right? It's written nowhere on the bulbs, electronics, box, or instructions.

 

[spiderman302]

Yes, the yellow box with the wing (post 20 and 19) is the same box that I got directly from Evitek back when I got the first one.

 

[Larry Fine]

Yes, the yellow box with the wing (post 20 and 19) is the same box that I got directly from Evitek back when I got the first one.

However, the bulb in post 20 is a single-element (well, per side) bulb.

 

[spiderman302]

I was referring to the yellow box.....

But the single element 9006/9005 F2's work very well in my truck! They came in a yellow box.
I got more for other cars in black boxes and white boxes from the amazon vendors mentioned above.....

 

[JJames]

What about the rubber dust coverers ? Do they have to be removed or modified ?

 

[kiltman]

What about the rubber dust coverers ? Do they have to be removed or modified ?

I got an extra set of rubbers and trimmed the backs so the fans are open to the elements

 

[JJames]

I got an extra set of rubbers and trimmed the backs so the fans are open to the elements

Ok , Thanks !

 

[rwthomas1]

What about the rubber dust coverers ? Do they have to be removed or modified ?

Depends on the LED I think. Ony F2s, there is a mounting ring, for lack of a better term, that gets installed like a regular bulb, and the rubber boot slid down over that. Then the actual LED emitter/fan assembly inserted in and locked in place with a ball detent. This is why I had to modify the retention bails, the rubber boot wouldn't fit between it and the LED body when inserted. Sorry if this isn't clear.

RT

 

[JJames]

I ordered the F2 - 9003 I think - H4 high/low beam type . Been through some tunnels today , more light will do good ! I have wired a new relay for the 2nd low beam , but still waiting for the "piggy back connector" that triggers the relay. So for now still just one low beam. Anyone tried to put small extra lights tucked under the tip guard ?

 

[JJames]

OK ,Bringing this one back a little . I my new set up with both headlamps having low beams worked nice (new relay ) A lot better light and of course ,getting the retaining wire "closed" on the back of the bulb did probably did a lot alone. Next stage : My F2 bulbs came in the mail ,they look nice: I've got some questions - for those that know. If you look at the photo , on the F2 bulbs one can detach the plate with the 3 "guiding pins" and rotate the bulb in a number of positions in relation to the " Pin plate" . The bulb is locked to the plate with a spring loaded ball . What is the correct position ? ( out of the box - the 2 bulbs where not in the same position. The instructions -in bad english- call for trial and error method, also called adjustment. Can anyone help ? I'm thinking the silver part (tip) of the bulb tip goes in the vertical plane, up - or down

Thanks !