steering head bearings - some queries

[aSTerix]

I have managed to remove all the races using a range of techniques gathered from this forum and ST-riders, would have been nice to have the kit but not possible here in Dubai !

I'm replacing with All Balls taper bearings and have a couple of queries:

1) Should I use waterproof grease ?
2) Should I apply grease to the inside of the dust seal where it contacts the bearing or leave it dry
3) I read about a free fall technique to set the lock nut torque correctly, could someone kindly explain how I do the free fall check
4) I read about overtightening the lock nut to 'seat" the bearings and then back off , this worries me a bit in case it damages the rollers so thought I would double check if this is recommended
5) The inside of my steering stem is very rusty, there is a plastic cap at the bottom but nothing on the top, this seems strange to me, am I missing a part or should I squirt some oil in there or just ignore it and let it rust !

 

[dwalby]

no opinion on the grease questions.

I think the 'free fall' technique is when you give a little push on the forks (while elevated in the air with a jack) in one direction, and they continue moving until they hit the steering stop. This is a common technique for checking if they're too tight (they stick). I found when I did mine many years ago I needed them a little tighter than this test would provide, otherwise I would get some steering wobble at around 40mph with hands off the bars (which is why I changed the bearings in the first place). And, I was able to grab both forks from the front of the bike and rock them in the direction of the wheel travel and feel a little play. So I ended up with them a little tighter than the free fall test would provide to remove both of those conditions.

I don't think I'd use the overtightening method to seat the bearings, just seat them the best you can with your makeshift tools (which is what I used as well) and ride the bike for a while. If you don't get them fully seated with the tools, the forces from riding will seat them all the way in eventually, and you'll need to go back and adjust them again. Check them after 500-1000 miles to see if they seated further.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Hi again STeve,

1 yes
2 grease
3 the steering stem preload setting/measurement (spring scale method) is on page 18-22 in the Honda Common Service Manual. The spec of 3.3-4.4 lbs is on page 1-11 in the ST1100 Service Manual. I’ll post the CSM pages in a minute. BTW, page 18-21 lists a torque spec of 8 ft lbs for the Steering Bearing Adjustment Nut when installing tapered roller bearings.
4 shouldn’t damage a tapered roller bearing, they’re pretty tough, but shouldn’t be a need if you get the races fully seated. The STOC stem bearings R&R tools loaner kit works great, just not shippable to you, unfortunately.
5 no OEM cap on top. I’d clean it up and get some protectant in there

HTH, John

 

[ST1100Y]

I use marine grease, on the operating/contact surfaces, as well as some surplus to keep water and dust out...
Rust inside the frame tubes see some squirts of ACF-50...
dwalby's 'free fall' technique is quite a good procedure, especially since the torque value given in the workshop manual won't work with tapered bearings...
Place bike on main-stand, get a second person to lean on the carrier stay (or use a jack under the oil pan), so the rear wheel sits on the ground, kneel at the front, facing the bike, tilt steering halfway to ~45° and let go of the wheel; the fork set should fall kinda slowly to the steering limiter (repeat process to other side); it should not stick, nor fall through fully free with no resistance...
PS: check torque of head-bearings after 1000km seems a safe procedure...
PPS: compare the height of the old bearings with your new tapered bearings before installation; those aftermarket sets are often confusing with the spacer washers; getting this wrong might hinder the steering lock pin to engage, or the triple clamp missing the steering limiters...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

 

[ST1100Y]

3 the steering stem preload setting/measurement (spring scale method) is on page 18-22 in the Honda Common Service Manual.

That'll be the proper method... but what if I don't have a spring scale avail...

 

[SMSW]

As said above, tapered roller bearings are tough. My auto mechanic once told me that car wheel (tapered) bearings are tightened to a specific torque, loosened, and then tightened again to a much lower torque. This may or may not be applicable to steering head bearings, but I assume, as John said above, if the bearing is properly seated, this is not necessary. On the other hand, the first torquing is a way to ensure the bearing is seated fully.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

That'll be the proper method... but what if I don't have a spring scale avail...

Yeah, getting stem bearings right is a bit of an art, Martin. The CSM’s tapereds’ torque spec of 8 ft lbs was too tight for my SSMST1100. Others have reported 6 or even 4 ft lbs worked for them. The other way is like a lot of folks do it... by feel and trial and error. Like I’ve done the bicycle stem bearings for all the kids in my neighborhood for over 30 years. The spring scale method can be done using a calibrated finger also...

John

 

[ST1100Y]

Yeah, getting stem bearings right is a bit of an art...

Yep, the OEM ball bearings are rather easy in this: ensure the races are seated properly, torque to specs, button all up, safety check in 1000km...
That's why I was never really keen on tapered ones (plus the hassle with the different height... had an agonizing episode on that CX500 due the various kits coming with incorrect shims, wrong dust seals -> steering lock not engaging, limiters off, lower triple contacting the frame head... WITA!!! )

 

[aSTerix]

as an aside, I have a choice of hammering the outer races into the frame or making up a screw compressor from some stud and plate (no possibility of buying a race insertion kit here at the moment)

Can anyone who has used the hammer method give me some feedback/tips please

 

[Bmacleod]

Use the old bearing race to hammer in the new race. Give the old race a quick pass with a grinder to take a light amount off the O.D. so it doesnt stick in the bore and comes out easily after the new race is in tight.

 

[Roger]

I thought I'd assembled my tapered bearings ok, but the first big bump in the road settled the lower bearing properly! An exciting moment, but all sorted now!

...All I can say about how tight the bearings should be is to get it all tight, but not too tight. I threw a cloth over the adjuster nut and wound it down as tight as I could - by hand, not with a spanner - and with the wheel on the ground. Fit the washer with ears down and wind the lock nut down - by hand - until the other ears can be bent up. The washer ties the adjuster nut and lock nut together, but they are not tight together, if you follow. When the yoke is done up tight on top, the lock nut is fixed and the adjuster nut can't move. If changes are needed, just slacken the yoke, lift it a little, and tap the adjuster tighter/looser, as you think best.....

If not tight enough, the front wheel will dance around, ....if too tight - well, you'll know it!

 

[ST1100Y]

Can anyone who has used the hammer method give me some feedback/tips please

Bmacleod gave good advice by using the old races as drivers to hammer on...
It also helps to put the new races into the freezer over night (same for the steering stem BTW)
I carefully clean all the seats and give them a slight smear of marine grease, eases installation.

But there is one obstacle I actually bought the OEM Honda tool for:
Getting the inner race of the lower bearing onto the steering stem...
You will need to search a steel pipe which inner diameter matches precisely so it won't stuck, but also won't damage the race.
Alternative: heating that inner race directly on an (old) electric cooking plate, welder's gloves and some juggling to get it on the stem, then some carefully placed bangs so it seats fully before cooling off/contracts again...

 

[dwalby]

But there is one obstacle I actually bought the OEM Honda tool for:
Getting the inner race of the lower bearing onto the steering stem...
You will need to search a steel pipe which inner diameter matches precisely so it won't stuck, but also won't damage the race.

When I did mine I used a piece of PVC pipe, 1" ID IIRC. But, the ID was a little too small to fit over the full length of the stem so I cut a groove along the length of the pipe with a table saw. That gap allowed the diameter to expand just enough, while still being sturdy enough to pound with a hammer.

 

[ST1100Y]

When I did mine I used a piece of PVC pipe...

Dunno about that, it always takes me quite a few, firm strokes till the sound changes from "dull" to a "clear ring", indicating that the race has truly seated...

 

[Bmacleod]

Here is an article that may help. I am not sure I fully agree with the cockeyed bearing race theory, but either way, It gives an outline on how to set the preload and to what numbers. For the record, I changed my stock ball bearings to tapered rollers, set to 5 lbs. of pull as outlined and my bike turns great and tracks dead straight with no vibrations/shakes. I always had a bit of shake with the factory bearings, though to be fair, I never checked the preload of the stockers before I swapped them. https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/shucking.html

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

However you get the races in, you can finish with a sacrificial brass drift. 1/4” rod stock works well. BTDT Tap at alternating spots 180° apart all the way around the circumference of the race on its edge. Like Martin said, the sound will change when the race, or tapered bearing on the stem, is “home.”

John

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Here is an article that may help

Shucking the Shakes www.motorcycleproject.com

From the article, an important point that is often overlooked (don’t alter the preload you just carefully set) :

After adjusting, drop the special washer back into place, and screw on the locknut, but don't tighten it. Though you probably found the locknut jammed against the tensioning nut, that's not the correct way to install it. It should be close to the tensioning nut, but not jammed against it. Leave a little space -- about 0.020". Then bend the locktabs into the locknut to keep the two interlocked. The locknut's job is to isolate the torque of the bridge nut from the steering bearings.

Understand that the tabs on the lock washer, folded into the slots on the adjustment nut, will keep the adjustment nut from backing off/loosening. The fork top bridge is locked to the stem, sandwiched between the locknut and the top steering stem nut.

John

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

A little STOC HiSTory lesson (pages 11-13) in the Spring 1994 issue:

(Stickie) STOC Newsletters by WG Norman *

(Stickie) STOC Newsletters by WG Norman *

www.st-riders.net

You’ll notice a familiar name.

John

 

[aSTerix]

A little STOC HiSTory lesson (pages 11-13) in the Spring 1994 issue:

(Stickie) STOC Newsletters by WG Norman *

(Stickie) STOC Newsletters by WG Norman *

www.st-riders.net

You’ll notice a familiar name.

John

Thankyou for pointing out these articles, they are easy reading and I will start working through them, the write up on the steering stem is very useful