VStrom 650.

[JackinFL]

Speaking of chain tension...
Not sure if it's the same with the newer ones, but on my '06 you were supposed to check the tension with the bike unloaded on the side stand.
I measured the deflection a few times that way and correlated it to the deflection on the center stand and did it that way after I was comfortable with my comparisons.

 

[SMSW]

Speaking of chain tension...

That's what my manual says for my '13 DL6650. I think the procedure to do it on the kick stand is simply to make it harder to adjust. Your way works for me too, but I dbl check before putting my tools away.

Since we are talking about chains and rear drive, my bike came with extra sprockets. Stock gearing is 15/47 (front, rear sprocket tooth count). IIRC, the bike came with a 17t front because the PO rode slabs mostly. After stalling the bike a couple of times in low speed sharp turns (on a gravel road trip w/ friends) I put in a 16t sprocket w/ a rubber center and never looked back. One advantage of chains and sprockets.

 

[Upt' North]

Speaking of chain tension...
Not sure if it's the same with the newer ones, but on my '06 you were supposed to check the tension with the bike unloaded on the side stand.
I measured the deflection a few times that way and correlated it to the deflection on the center stand and did it that way after I was comfortable with my comparisons.

Still the same on >17 650's. Nuts.

 

[Larry Fine]

I came up with a chain-adjustment method that minimizes slack, which should help maximize mileage, while avoiding over-tightening:

The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.

I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.

I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight.