ST1100Y
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My thoughts exactly...
(using exclusively BelRay EXS in my ST's since decades ;-) )
What kind of oil?
- Thread starter qman
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(using exclusively BelRay EXS in my ST's since decades ;-) )
Andrew Shadow
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You very well may be right. I was thinking about it after I read your reply and realized that I misremembered. I didn't find any 10W30 that was not energy conserving. All of the 10W40 that I saw was either synthetic or the high-mileage variety and I didn't want either. Regular 10W40 used to be everywhere but with so many vehicles being 5W30 and less now I guess there is less demand for it. Strange thing is that I went to a Honda dealer presuming that they would surely have non-energy conserving 10W30 because that is what the owners' manual calls for. All they had in regular oil was 10W40. They said that they couldn't even find a Honda part number for 10W30 Honda branded oil. So I ended up with 10W40 anyway.
ST1100Y
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Over here all them new cars are on 0W30... often MFG branded oils, only avail at their contract workshops, at "pharmacy prices" of course... :-?
Methinks 10W40 seems to be the best compromise and OK for "summertime" use...
With the climate over here I go with 5W40 (most commonly avail), 5W50 or even 0W60... full synth though...
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0W20 is now what most new cars are running over here.
ST1100Y
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Do they also increase the replacement intervals to insane mileages like 20K and more?
Considering that "modern" engines run pretty lean, thus hotter, the oil should see much quicker breakdown, while having to take on even more of engine cooling...
I think this is a myth, running too lean increases emissions, so they aren't tuned overly lean just to reduce emissions. Optimum emissions are achieved at the stoichiometric ratio, so that's what engine management systems shoot for. I have an oil temp gauge on both of my new cars and it doesn't seem any higher than I remember with older vehicles.
Uncle Phil
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Had very good success with Rotella T6 in all three of my ST1100s. MY riding friend used to ride a Virago (super hot bike on the back head) and it was the only oil he could find that the Virago didn't 'cook' when he got caught in traffic. I figured from that, it would work just fine in my ST1100s and it has. I now also use it in my 2003 GMC Sierra, 2008 Nissan Frontier, and my 2013 Hyundai Veloster. I also use Purolator filters (the longer one) also.
ST1100Y
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The owner of my car w/shop is pulling his hair over the, often catastrophic results on "modern" engines...
OEM or after-market instruments?
The thing with today's OEM temp gauges is, that their often designed to "not trouble" the operator... thus coolant gauges will not exceed 100?C/212?F...
I'm curious, give me an example or two.
ST1100Y
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Noticeable numbers of failures on injection pumps and injectors on (our) small Diesel engines...
Inspections show insufficient lubrication due to excessive air/low fuel volumes...
Interesting detail aside: not likely occurring on engines who's owners went with "chip-tuning", since this "enriches" the MFG's lean mix...
On petrol/gas and diesel engines: significant increase of failed head gaskets, noticeable numbers on outlet valve issues, very short lifetime of exhaust manifolds and all kinds of plastic covers/lids within the engine bay crumbling apart (unclear if temperature or RoHS caused...)
And let's not get into what Ethanol does to engine components... :???:
Andrew :
I have never checked the label on every 10W-40 oil on the market, but I have read on " Bob is the Oil Guy" website that any oil heavier than 10W-30 won't be energy conserving. It's a fairly authoritative website when it comes to lubrication. Ole "Bob" isn't a tribologist , but he is no dummy. He's an MD with a bunch of exotic cars, several of Italian manufacture. If you go to his website and click on the " Motor Oil University " link , there is a lot of great info, to start with, if you are interested.
Yes, the frequent oil changes may cost more, although just slightly. I am from the old school where the mantra that frequent changing of oil is a good thing. I'm not certain I will ever agree that 16K, 20K or even 25K is good for the engine, even with the newly improved oils.This thread is good stuff for thecrowd!
So, if I read it correctly, you are changing the oil three times each year and the filter once, before winter. Nothing wrong with that, but I'll bet that costs more than using one of the best synthetics and changing it once a year at winter, along with the filter. Amsoil 10W-40 - good for 25,000 MILES, or one year.
As a result, I've been rewarded with smooth running long life engines that don't burn any undue volume of oil between oil changes (if any at all). I'm sticking with what works for me. Go ahead and push your oil to the limit. I suppose the longevity marketing promise of these new oils can't be wrong...right?
Just do yourself a favour and check your oil level frequently. If the oil dramatically changes consistency or becomes so black that you begin to "wonder"...it's time to change the oil.
Actually, there is nothing "new" about synthetic oil. Amsoil was the first to create it way back in the early 1970's. Even though they guarantee their top o' the line m/c synthetic to hold its spec for 25,000 miles, I would never ride that far in one year, or leave an oil change that long, even if I did. I'm comfortable doing my changes at 16,000 kms (10,000 mi.) or one year and it usually turns out to be once a year for me.
There can be no argument about the superiority of synthetic over dino. That has already been proven, not only by the industry, but to myself, by myself, when I switched from a dino hypoid oil in the rear drive to a synthetic hypoid oil, after noticing lots of extremely fine metal particles accumulated on the magnet in the drain bolt, the reason WHY the magnet was put there by Honda in the first place. Since switching the final drive case to synthetic, the magnet has no trace of metal at all.
Your old school method will get you by though, probably for as long as you ever keep any engines running, but it is still costing you more in the long run with multi changes per year. Most people here always seem to be looking to do repairs or servicing on the cheap - aftermarket brake pads, air and oil filters, etc. instead of the costlier and usually superior OEM parts, so it is surprising to find someone who will spend more money on inferior oils, without a sense of being economical.
As an afterthought, how about considering the environment as well? You could continue to use and dump 12 litres of oil every year or just 4 . . .
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mlheck
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I'll give you that they were the first to commerically market it in the USA and receive API certifcation, but not the first to make it. The German military has the honor of being the first to manufactor and use it in vehicles.
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After feeling clutch slippage last year during a big trip I decided that from now on I'm sticking with the recommended Honda oils, it's not that much more expensive and you know they'll perform well.
Like to know exactly what problems your shop owner is seeing - It's difficult for a modern engine ( car or MC ) to run too lean , because the O2 sensor gives the computer the info. it needs to maintain the proper A/F ratio. This results in better gas mileage and less engine wear - less un-burned fuel washing the cylinders & diluting the oil. And one reason why recommended oil change intervals have been extended.
The latest problem due to a new technology ( direct injection ) is the build-up of deposits on intake valve stems. So, buy a car with a turbo - in general, they don''t use direct injection.
That's part #
08C35-A131L01 for a gallon jug, [h=2]08C35-A131M01 in quarts[/h] Most counter minions can find a part unless there is a picture in a catalog. Most shops won't stock it because of low sales and just use 10w40
08C35-A131L01 for a gallon jug, [h=2]08C35-A131M01 in quarts[/h] Most counter minions can find a part unless there is a picture in a catalog. Most shops won't stock it because of low sales and just use 10w40
It's all about the clearance tolerances, that dictate the 'pour like water' oils, nothing more folks. As an example, I made that mistake with our Ford Escape V-6 when changing oil. Went to 10-30w from the rec. 5-20w. Fortunatley after only being in there a couple days of driving, I was advised my a Ford tech. neighbor to "get that crap oughta' there". Apparently he had seen several cases of noisey, gaulded lifters(yup, even those cavities where they ride is tight tolerances). The slight 'tick' it had FORTUNATELY dissapeared when I changed it back to 5-20w......immediately
.The RAM truck guys gave me the same advice about not straying from 5w-20. I guess the days of just running the highest viscosity that the ambient temps would allow are over for any new cars.It's all about the clearance tolerances, that dictate the 'pour like water' oils, nothing more folks. As an example, I made that mistake with our Ford Escape V-6 when changing oil. Went to 10-30w from the rec. 5-20w. Fortunatley after only being in there a couple days of driving, I was advised my a Ford tech. neighbor to "get that crap oughta' there". Apparently he had seen several cases of noisey, gaulded lifters(yup, even those cavities where they ride is tight tolerances). The slight 'tick' it had FORTUNATELY dissapeared when I changed it back to 5-20w......immediately
Makes sense. God 'ole Bob the Oil Guy says to use the lowest weight oil that will still maintain at least 10 psi / 1,000 RPM. If I recall properly, he runs straight 20 weight in his Lamborgini . He says it runs much quieter with the straight 20W than with the factory recommended heavier weight oil. So, thinner oil actually lubricates better, as long as it's not too thin.