ST1100Y
Site Supporter
My thoughts exactly......but I'll bet that costs more than using one of the best synthetics and changing it once a year at winter, along with the filter.
(using exclusively BelRay EXS in my ST's since decades ;-) )
My thoughts exactly......but I'll bet that costs more than using one of the best synthetics and changing it once a year at winter, along with the filter.
Please tell me the make/type of 10W-40 oil that you found that was "Energy Conserving". Just one will suffice. Thanks.
Over here all them new cars are on 0W30... often MFG branded oils, only avail at their contract workshops, at "pharmacy prices" of course... :-?Regular 10W40 used to be everywhere but with so many vehicles being 5W30 and less now I guess there is less demand for it.
Over here all them new cars are on 0W30... often MFG branded oils, only avail at their contract workshops, at "pharmacy prices" of course... :-?
Methinks 10W40 seems to be the best compromise and OK for "summertime" use...
With the climate over here I go with 5W40 (most commonly avail), 5W50 or even 0W60... full synth though...
Do they also increase the replacement intervals to insane mileages like 20K and more?0W20 is now what most new cars are running over here.
Considering that "modern" engines run pretty lean, thus hotter, the oil should see much quicker breakdown, while having to take on even more of engine cooling...
The owner of my car w/shop is pulling his hair over the, often catastrophic results on "modern" engines...I think this is a myth, running too lean increases emissions, so they aren't tuned overly lean just to reduce emissions.
OEM or after-market instruments?I have an oil temp gauge on both of my new cars and it doesn't seem any higher than I remember with older vehicles.
The owner of my car w/shop is pulling his hair over the, often catastrophic results on "modern" engines...
Noticeable numbers of failures on injection pumps and injectors on (our) small Diesel engines...I'm curious, give me an example or two.
You very well may be right. I was thinking about it after I read your reply and realized that I misremembered. I didn't find any 10W30 that was not energy conserving. All of the 10W40 that I saw was either synthetic or the high-mileage variety and I didn't want either. Regular 10W40 used to be everywhere but with so many vehicles being 5W30 and less now I guess there is less demand for it. Strange thing is that I went to a Honda dealer presuming that they would surely have non-energy conserving 10W30 because that is what the owners' manual calls for. All they had in regular oil was 10W40. They said that they couldn't even find a Honda part number for 10W30 Honda branded oil. So I ended up with 10W40 anyway.
This thread is good stuff for the crowd!
So, if I read it correctly, you are changing the oil three times each year and the filter once, before winter. Nothing wrong with that, but I'll bet that costs more than using one of the best synthetics and changing it once a year at winter, along with the filter. Amsoil 10W-40 - good for 25,000 MILES, or one year.
I suppose the longevity marketing promise of these new oils can't be wrong...right?
Actually, there is nothing "new" about synthetic oil. Amsoil was the first to create it way back in the early 1970's.
The owner of my car w/shop is pulling his hair over the, often catastrophic results on "modern" engines...
OEM or after-market instruments?
The thing with today's OEM temp gauges is, that their often designed to "not trouble" the operator... thus coolant gauges will not exceed 100?C/212?F...
I think this is a myth, running too lean increases emissions, so they aren't tuned overly lean just to reduce emissions. Optimum emissions are achieved at the stoichiometric ratio, so that's what engine management systems shoot for. I have an oil temp gauge on both of my new cars and it doesn't seem any higher than I remember with older vehicles.
It's all about the clearance tolerances, that dictate the 'pour like water' oils, nothing more folks. As an example, I made that mistake with our Ford Escape V-6 when changing oil. Went to 10-30w from the rec. 5-20w. Fortunatley after only being in there a couple days of driving, I was advised my a Ford tech. neighbor to "get that crap oughta' there". Apparently he had seen several cases of noisey, gaulded lifters(yup, even those cavities where they ride is tight tolerances). The slight 'tick' it had FORTUNATELY dissapeared when I changed it back to 5-20w......immediately.
The RAM truck guys gave me the same advice about not straying from 5w-20. I guess the days of just running the highest viscosity that the ambient temps would allow are over for any new cars.