Article [13] ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

maverickfhs said:
So I have removed it and grease seems to be dry on the bearing,
maverickfhs said:
Also, should I clean and repack them with fresh grease too?
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If I'm reading this correctly.. some clarification is needed.

Grease on the outside of the bearing does nothing, what you are probably seeing is dried moly grease from the spline lubes. Those are sealed ball bearings suporting your tail wheel, you can't pull and pack them like tapered wheel bearings. Yes, technically you could pry up the seal, inject some fresh grease underneath. It's debatable if doing this really helps as you are leaving the worn out base grease behind.

You can put some grease on the inside of the bearing, but this just helps the axle slide through and prevent corrosion. Do not use moly grease here, not enough movement.
 
T_C said:
If I'm reading this correctly.. some clarification is needed.

Grease on the outside of the bearing does nothing, what you are probably seeing is dried moly grease from the spline lubes. Those are sealed ball bearings suporting your tail wheel, you can't pull and pack them like tapered wheel bearings. Yes, technically you could pry up the seal, inject some fresh grease underneath. It's debatable if doing this really helps as you are leaving the worn out base grease behind.

You can put some grease on the inside of the bearing, but this just helps the axle slide through and prevent corrosion. Do not use moly grease here, not enough movement.
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Sorry for the confusion, yes I have put everything back together and left those bearings alone since they were smooth and doing fine.
 
Anyone know the torque value for the four large nuts on the flange drive. They were really tough to get off.Driven Flange.jpg
 
@MerlF
Service Manual, p.1-17, shows "Final Driven Flange Nut", Qty 4, 14mm thread diameter, 150 N-m (111 lbf-ft), with a note that his is a "U-nut".

The Rear wheel removal, disassembly, and reassembly procedure, p. 16-5 to 16-10 just says "install the driven flange assembly to the right wheel hub", no torque for that fastener is listed in that section.

The U-nut appears to be part 90305-GE8-003, but I don't find another source of acceptable torque for it.

Please verify it is 14mm before using the torque I mention here. Or someone else can corroborate that is the correct torque.
 
Thanks BakerBoy, these are the toughest nuts to take off I've encountered on the bike. I should have read this series of posts first. Just checked the manul and it is as you say. 111lb/ft, no wonder they were so tough to get off.
 
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victim here to the bearings going . 04 ST with 30K miles. Maybe 130mph at a recent track day had something to do with it. :think1: 1 month ago it was fine. Putting on new rubber I got the marble feeling as i was inserting the axle. I extracted the bearings and they had that crunchy feeling after a mineral spirit cleaning.

my previous 06 with 60K had no such issues.
 
Glad to note that while mounting my new CT to the ST this past week, I cleaned the old moly and re-lubed it, and checked these flange bearings (30k miles) and noticed no notchiness or sloppiness back there.
I hadn't seen this article, having no need through the years, but while I've changed wheel bearings before (only on my inline skates[!]), for some irrational reason I've always slightly feared replacing wheel bearings, maybe because of their critical nature. I dunno.
Having read this now, it's not nearly as intimidating as I'd feared.
I've also learned that much of the "fear" of tackling ST maintenance chores is really more tedious or time-consuming, than actually difficult to perform.
Have I told y'all lately how much I love st-owners.com?
 
Thanks Mellow for this great instructional article and all the comments from forum members as we'll. It gave me the knowledge and confidence to tackle the job. Just a note to help others who may use this thread, I removed the distance collar with bearings from the flange in Step 3 with a 21 mm socket and extension. I then removed the bearings from the distance collar using a 11/16 socket and extension. Light taps with a two-pound hand held sledge seemed to work well in removing the parts.
 
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