Brake and Clutch Fluid level check

Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
95
Location
Lake Zurich, Illinois
Bike
04 ST1300
What is the correct procedure to check the brake and clutch fluid levels on the MC on the handle bars. Here is what I do.

Clutch MC: Turn the handle bars all the way to the right to achieve a level position for the MC and then add the fluid to between the Lower and upper marks. This usually leaves a little bubble. Although when the handle bars are straightened there is more space in the MC compared to when it was turned all the way to the right.

Brake MC: Turn the handle bars all the way to the left to achieve a level position for the MC and then add the fluid to between the Lower and upper marks. This usually leaves a little bubble. Although when the handle bars are straightened there is more space in the MC compared to when it was turned all the way to the right.

Show below are the levels for the Brake MC on the left with the handle bar turned all the way to the left and the clutch MC with the handle turned all the way to the right.
 

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Nothing - I'm fond of IBC myself but when your hydraulic fluid is amber or brown it's probably in need of replacement.
Except that, due mostly to marketing I suspect, this is no longer the easy truth that it used to be as brake fluid comes in many shades of different colours now. What I use to consider to be old looking brake fluid I have seen coming straight out of a new sealed bottle. I have even see brake fluid with a distinct red hue, which is fine as it is still easy to distinguish when it begins to discolour due to normal contamination. What I find pretty dumb is manufacturers who make brake fluid that has a colour that makes it look like it is beginning to get contaminated when it is new, making it that much more difficult to tell what state the brake fluid is in.
 
What is the correct procedure to check the brake and clutch fluid levels on the MC on the handle bars. Here is what I do.

Clutch MC: Turn the handle bars all the way to the right to achieve a level position for the MC and then add the fluid to between the Lower and upper marks. This usually leaves a little bubble. Although when the handle bars are straightened there is more space in the MC compared to when it was turned all the way to the right.

Brake MC: Turn the handle bars all the way to the left to achieve a level position for the MC and then add the fluid to between the Lower and upper marks. This usually leaves a little bubble. Although when the handle bars are straightened there is more space in the MC compared to when it was turned all the way to the right.

Show below are the levels for the Brake MC on the left with the handle bar turned all the way to the left and the clutch MC with the handle turned all the way to the right.
Your method is just slightly off.
Let me explain, if a bike has handlebar risers, the level that appears in the window will be incorrect.
Do not use the lines outside of the master cylinder housing for the correct level of fluid.
INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc.
 
What I find pretty dumb is manufacturers who make brake fluid that has a colour that makes it look like it is beginning to get contaminated when it is new, making it that much more difficult to tell what state the brake fluid is in.
You have to look at this from a marketing perspective and ignore the safety implications.
 
I have had people buy and bring me genuine Honda dot 4 brake fluid that was so dark you could not see through it, from new, unopened bottles.
My guess since it’s so expensive at the dealerships that it sits there for long periods of time, and it’s the shelf life that changes the color etc.
Just my opinion, because I have seen the same stuff clear upon opening newly delivered stuff.
 
Your method is just slightly off.
Let me explain, if a bike has handlebar risers, the level that appears in the window will be incorrect.
Do not use the lines outside of the master cylinder housing for the correct level of fluid.
INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc.
Thanks for weighing in. I had not considered this angle. I do have bar risers.
As to your statements, further clarification is needed:

"Let me explain, if a bike has handlebar risers, the level that appears in the window will be incorrect." Will the incorrect level be higher or lower than what it should be.

"INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc." If doing it this way. Should the handle bar be turned all the way to the right for the clutch and to the left for the brake.
 
INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc.
I concur...
The view-glass exists only as LOW warning... if filled properly, indication that your pads are worn down...
 
"INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc." If doing it this way. Should the handle bar be turned all the way to the right for the clutch and to the left for the brake."

One should turn the bars until the m/c is level, which may or may not be with the bars fully right or left. Fill to the inside casting mark or a bit less. Consider this a maximum, new or old pads doesn't matter..... when fluid gets hot or expands with moisture in it, hot braking, the pressure needs somewhere to go. The rubber diaphram inside will take up some of it..... just saying overfilling is not desirable.

Don't let your brake fluid go more than two years, personally I do annually and I know it's always in good shape.
 
"INSIDE the housings, on the front wall, you will see an investment casting line across the housing, this should be used for the correct level fill indicator etc." If doing it this way. Should the handle bar be turned all the way to the right for the clutch and to the left for the brake."

One should turn the bars until the m/c is level, which may or may not be with the bars fully right or left. Fill to the inside casting mark or a bit less. Consider this a maximum, new or old pads doesn't matter..... when fluid gets hot or expands with moisture in it, hot braking, the pressure needs somewhere to go. The rubber diaphram inside will take up some of it..... just saying overfilling is not desirable.

Don't let your brake fluid go more than two years, personally I do annually and I know it's always in good shape.
So two questions Then.
At what position of the handle bar is the MC considered to be in a leveled position for the clutch and brake respectively.
Is the MC leveled when the handle bars are pointing straight.
 
So two questions Then.
At what position of the handle bar is the MC considered to be in a leveled position for the clutch and brake respectively.
Is the MC leveled when the handle bars are pointing straight.
Well, there's fluid in there that will always be level, so move the bars until the fluid is level with the line. At that point the MC is level.
 
So two questions Then.
At what position of the handle bar is the MC considered to be in a leveled position for the clutch and brake respectively.
Is the MC leveled when the handle bars are pointing straight.
its a visual thing mostly, put the bike on the centerstand and turn the bars until the top cover of the reservoir looks level relative to the ground.
 
Assuming that whatever bar riser was installed significantly changed the position/angle of the master cylinders relative to the position that they were in with the Honda OEM riser plate, it would seem logical that the position of the fluid level reference lines that are on the inside of the master cylinders will have changed by the same amount as the ones that are on the outside of the master cylinders. If the bar riser made a significant difference to the position of the master cylinders this should be considered regardless of which reference point is being used.
 
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