no power
- Thread starter ST fever
- Start date
battery terminals tight?
More info please. Does it do this every time you ride it from a cold start or did it do this just one time or does it once in a while? Will it run normally after it cools off for a while? After it "shuts off" does it crank and not start or not crank over at all? When it "shuts off" and the key is ON do any lights remain on, does the horn work?
Shooting from the hip, main fuse and grounds tight too?
Info on this here bad grounds most likely should be able to see how to fix easy investigate
Do some fall-of-potential testing while it's not running, such as checking for voltage between the battery + and the ignition + terminals, and between battery - and the engine case.
In other words, look for voltage between points that should normally be at the same voltage.
Any appreciable voltage drop will indicate a high resistance in the current pathway, which can be narrowed down by process of elimination with additional point-to-point testing.
In other words, look for voltage between points that should normally be at the same voltage.
Any appreciable voltage drop will indicate a high resistance in the current pathway, which can be narrowed down by process of elimination with additional point-to-point testing.
Get the battery load-tested; batteries fail with internal shorts that kick in when they get hot. Just because the battery charger says "fully charged" doesn't mean much if the battery is poor health.
I didn't read it all through, thought still ran but just dash, lighting quit,the ground thing probably don't apply
There are few "probably don't apply" when you have an electrical gremlin. If the dash area and lighting shut down, check the 23 pin plastic connector behind the right headlight. Look for overheating/melting of one of the connectors (ground).
The 24 pin white connector is found sort of behind and below the left headlight. Above and near the right headlight is a yellow buss that brings together a number of ground wires (green). It's not really a connecter and doesn't come apart without destroying it but some of us have taken the ground wires out of it and cleaned them up if burnt and/or corroded then reconnected the ground wires together in a tidy insulated way. Corrosion at the yellow bus often goes hand in hand with a burnt and crispy 24 pin connector where the green ground wire from the yellow buss passes through the connector.
i've only ridden it twice since this happened both times it died everything shuts off the dash all the lights no power at all with the key on no lights no horn. I get it towed home. I put it on the charger. The battery charges up. I've tested the alternator and it's giving power to the battery but yet this is happening.
The only time that I have ever seen this was a friend's bike - it stopped at the top of a hill in the Yorkshire Dales. Stone cold dead.
It turned out to be the main earth wires conencted on the frame cross member in front of the drivers seat at the rear of the petrol tank.
Early models had a recall due to these wires being cut or frayed by something. But its equally possible that the contact has been compromised by corrosion. Easy enough to check and fix.
Picture taken while fitting a new hose to the lower fuel tank - the top tank is satnding upright on its hinge. The earth point and leads are circled
Another similar example was mine - on an ST1100. The leads from the main relay near the battery had corroded. This is the unit with the 30A fuse. The same unit is positioned to the rear of the battery on the ST1300. The corrosion had spread up the inside of the leads and it gave up the ghost. I'd parked outside the dealers to buy something. It wouldn't start so I let them deal with it. They had to cut out a fair length from the main harness and fit a new fuse unit. Quite an easy fix as it turned out.
It turned out to be the main earth wires conencted on the frame cross member in front of the drivers seat at the rear of the petrol tank.
Early models had a recall due to these wires being cut or frayed by something. But its equally possible that the contact has been compromised by corrosion. Easy enough to check and fix.
Picture taken while fitting a new hose to the lower fuel tank - the top tank is satnding upright on its hinge. The earth point and leads are circled
Another similar example was mine - on an ST1100. The leads from the main relay near the battery had corroded. This is the unit with the 30A fuse. The same unit is positioned to the rear of the battery on the ST1300. The corrosion had spread up the inside of the leads and it gave up the ghost. I'd parked outside the dealers to buy something. It wouldn't start so I let them deal with it. They had to cut out a fair length from the main harness and fit a new fuse unit. Quite an easy fix as it turned out.
If the battery was going dead because the alternator was not producing charge current the bike would run a few miles gradually losing the dashboard. The dashboard would blink on and off before eventually going black. Shortly after that the fuel delivery system would lose pressure and the engine would stop running at least mine did when this occurred. Even at 10 to 10.5 volts on the side of the road some lights would glow dimly and the horn would make a ghastly noise.
What do those connectors look like? Have you removed the fairing yet?
where can I buy the brushes and the regulator ?
Cycle Parts Nation, Ron Ayers (these and any authorized Honda dealer). They all have similar part diagrams as this link:
Look up your model and double check the VIN number to find the correct diagram set, then click on the alternator diagram. The individual parts are listed. Caution that most alternator repair/rebuild shops cannot bench test the gear driven ST alternator.
i pulled out the alternator , is there a way to check the reg/rectifier ?