2016 ST1300P incoming... advice on new to me, 1st time owner
- Thread starter SD1
- Start date
aniwack
Site Supporter
While its on the center stand, spin the back tire by hand. Freely rotates, the rear brake is ok. No rotation, the SMC is frozen NOT SAFE TO RIDE!!!!
Clutch: Ewww.... flush it. Lots of contamination visible.
There are two brake reservoirs. One is on your right hand control the second is to the right of the battery. Ensure it has fluid of bad juju WILL happen.
Tupperware: Nobody cares about the Tupperware. What we need to see is the frame under the covers. I had a customer buy a "immaculate" bike that was a total loss. The frame had a visible S-bend to the frame and sub frame from being high sided. He was MAAAAAAD he got scammed. I'm concerned with the amount of damage to the engine guard. It was clearly in a significant drop. The mufflers have a lot of scraping.
The tires appear healthy enough to get you started on your adventure. The front axle is 22mm and the rear is 27mm. You'll need a 8 mm hex and 17mm hex from the hardware store.
Paint chips occur from gas drops on the tank. The white touchup paint from AutoZone will fix that.
I've got more thoughts but I'm busy at work.
Clutch: Ewww.... flush it. Lots of contamination visible.
There are two brake reservoirs. One is on your right hand control the second is to the right of the battery. Ensure it has fluid of bad juju WILL happen.
Tupperware: Nobody cares about the Tupperware. What we need to see is the frame under the covers. I had a customer buy a "immaculate" bike that was a total loss. The frame had a visible S-bend to the frame and sub frame from being high sided. He was MAAAAAAD he got scammed. I'm concerned with the amount of damage to the engine guard. It was clearly in a significant drop. The mufflers have a lot of scraping.
The tires appear healthy enough to get you started on your adventure. The front axle is 22mm and the rear is 27mm. You'll need a 8 mm hex and 17mm hex from the hardware store.
Paint chips occur from gas drops on the tank. The white touchup paint from AutoZone will fix that.
I've got more thoughts but I'm busy at work.
Since your about to dive into the wonderful world of ST maintenance, I’ll explain a few of John’s comments.
Place your foot on the rear wheel and push down quickly and firmly one time.
Your rear wheel should turn at least 1 1/2 full turns, as pointed out, if it does not, you will probably find SMC issues.
The SMC should not be rebuilt as it’s the screen cartridge, and small return ports that get clogged, as well as damage to the bore that your not likely to notice by looking at it.
You would need to measure it etc.
The windows on both the master cylinder housings can be very misleading, don’t assume the fluid is ok by the color, remove the cover, plastic, and diaphragm to observe the sludge that is hiding below the level of the window, as this is what is probably also hiding in the slave cylinder.
Tupperware can be replaced on bikes, to hide damage.
As John pointed out, the damage on the crash bars, looks like it may have been in one too many rodeos, or a training bike.
Damage that bad will usually cause damage to the aluminum frame, be sure to inspect all the mounting points etc.
The long time duration of the enrichment circuit indicates a failing t-stat.
You’re probably gonna find it stuck fully open, or corrosion on the barrel with shiny scrape marks.
You will also want to remove the black paint (overspray) inside the radiator pipes, as it’s known to clog up the idle wax pipe etc.
You should also replace the vacuum hoses and clean the five way tee, and do a starter valve sync, as well as a counter balance adjustment, to have it running its best.
As pointed out, you should inspect the rear splines, o-rings, and driven bearings on the spline plate.
These often need replacement every other tire change on bikes ridden normally, yours is a police bike.
The Honda M77 assembly paste tha the shops currently use, is not the correct product to protect the splines and dries up into little beads and falls away, causing damage to the splines.
And many shops just use grease or your red lube which is NOT good on these Honda’s.
I can’t tell from your video, but you will want to remove the lower cowls, and nose cowl and inspect for coolant leaks,
It looks awfully dark there.
These bikes will run amazing mileage, when properly taken care of and set up, but almost every auction bike will be found to have several of these issues.
Fear not, they are easy enough to correct, if they are found and corrected early.
I will attempt to provide a couple pictures of damage you will want to look for.
Hope this helps you turn this project into a bike you will enjoy for years to come.
Place your foot on the rear wheel and push down quickly and firmly one time.
Your rear wheel should turn at least 1 1/2 full turns, as pointed out, if it does not, you will probably find SMC issues.
The SMC should not be rebuilt as it’s the screen cartridge, and small return ports that get clogged, as well as damage to the bore that your not likely to notice by looking at it.
You would need to measure it etc.
The windows on both the master cylinder housings can be very misleading, don’t assume the fluid is ok by the color, remove the cover, plastic, and diaphragm to observe the sludge that is hiding below the level of the window, as this is what is probably also hiding in the slave cylinder.
Tupperware can be replaced on bikes, to hide damage.
As John pointed out, the damage on the crash bars, looks like it may have been in one too many rodeos, or a training bike.
Damage that bad will usually cause damage to the aluminum frame, be sure to inspect all the mounting points etc.
The long time duration of the enrichment circuit indicates a failing t-stat.
You’re probably gonna find it stuck fully open, or corrosion on the barrel with shiny scrape marks.
You will also want to remove the black paint (overspray) inside the radiator pipes, as it’s known to clog up the idle wax pipe etc.
You should also replace the vacuum hoses and clean the five way tee, and do a starter valve sync, as well as a counter balance adjustment, to have it running its best.
As pointed out, you should inspect the rear splines, o-rings, and driven bearings on the spline plate.
These often need replacement every other tire change on bikes ridden normally, yours is a police bike.
The Honda M77 assembly paste tha the shops currently use, is not the correct product to protect the splines and dries up into little beads and falls away, causing damage to the splines.
And many shops just use grease or your red lube which is NOT good on these Honda’s.
I can’t tell from your video, but you will want to remove the lower cowls, and nose cowl and inspect for coolant leaks,
It looks awfully dark there.
These bikes will run amazing mileage, when properly taken care of and set up, but almost every auction bike will be found to have several of these issues.
Fear not, they are easy enough to correct, if they are found and corrected early.
I will attempt to provide a couple pictures of damage you will want to look for.
Hope this helps you turn this project into a bike you will enjoy for years to come.
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Don’t understand why you take these comments personally, just ask John, or many of the forum members, who have gone through their bikes how many of these issues they had when they purchased their bikes.
Just about Every single bike that John or I sort out, needed an SMC, clutch slave cylinder, pads, bearings, and all the things listed in both my response, and Aniwack response.
This is not an attack on you or your choice, just the facts that these are the things commonly found on low mileage ST1300’s.
You may see things differently, and understand why we are suggesting to inspect these things after you start digging in deeper.
Like John said, be sure to post the pictures as you go through it.
Just about Every single bike that John or I sort out, needed an SMC, clutch slave cylinder, pads, bearings, and all the things listed in both my response, and Aniwack response.
This is not an attack on you or your choice, just the facts that these are the things commonly found on low mileage ST1300’s.
You may see things differently, and understand why we are suggesting to inspect these things after you start digging in deeper.
Like John said, be sure to post the pictures as you go through it.
aniwack
Site Supporter
@SD1 please don't think we're taking shots at you. I've worked on the 1300's for the past 10 years and @Igofar since Fred Flintstone invented the wheel. Between us we have countless stories of owners that bought wrecked bikes thinking they had a diamond. We want you to be a happy SAFE owner with a flawless machine. From your video I can hear the vacuum leak whistle. That's extremely easy to replace yourself. You will need the vacuum tool for the throttle body sync.
Don't feel intimidated by this bike. If you find yourself hung on something, make a post, publish some pictures, and the masses will get you back on track. Don't instinctively trust the YouTubers. There is a lot of bad information in the videos.
Overall I think you scored a hell of a deal on a 2016. Once you get it opened up only then can we really see what's hiding under the covers.
Don't feel intimidated by this bike. If you find yourself hung on something, make a post, publish some pictures, and the masses will get you back on track. Don't instinctively trust the YouTubers. There is a lot of bad information in the videos.
Overall I think you scored a hell of a deal on a 2016. Once you get it opened up only then can we really see what's hiding under the covers.