You can set the clock when on or in acc., but only read it when off.
If you have a factory acc. terminal, that should obviously be on in acc., too.
Add Switch to GPS Power
- Thread starter paulcb
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If you have a factory acc. terminal, that should obviously be on in acc., too.
Yeah that's right in the owner's manual IIRC. As to reading it when off - I thought as much but wasn't sure so thanks for the confirmation.
LOL obviously. There's an ACC fuse/circuit that can be at the factory fuse panel. ABS bikes have a slightly different setup than my bike. Or ACC (switched) power can be had up front from the Quartet Harness connection. Easy with the Quartet harness but I imagine possible without it. I don't know what you'd do for the 1100.Larry Fine said:
The 1100 has a separate hot-and-ground pair of terminals next to the fuse block, the hot fed through a 5a fuse from a separate terminal on the ignition switch (which could theoretically be independently supplied by a different ignition switch with an acc. position).
(The 1100 only has a two-position ignition switch (in addition to lock.))
On my bike, I have a pair of wires that runs up to the front left pocket area, with a cigarette lighter (a la Vetter Windjammer) in a hole positioned to match the right-side pocket's key lock (I'm a big fan of symmetry) and a lighter-type power socket inside the pocket.
Inside the pocket, I added a plug-in splitter that duplicates the socket for my traffic-equipped Garmin power cord, and adds a pair of USB ports that supply the TPMS receiver/display and my cell-phone charger cord, as the phone is usually in the pocket when I'm riding.
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In certain lighting you can see clock even with the key in your pocket.
Really? Dang. Wrong again. That's like twice in 3 days.
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For reference, I have two GPS... a new Zumo 396 LMT-S and fairly new Chinavasion motorycle GPS. I like both for different reasons.
yea I forgot there is a voltage supply difference... good point
Can you simply compare the pluses and minuses of each? If picking only one, which one and why?
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I just got back from an 8 day trip to CO and UT. It was awesome, but that story is for another thread. During that trip, getting videos off my bike camera system was a pain... I had to leave the key on or pull the DVR off my bike and power it in the room, which is a small hassle. I thought, instead of switching just the GPS, why not use the SPDT switch for the entire Fuzeblock?... one side to switched power so it works as it does now with the key on and the other to battery power. Then with a single flip of the switch, I power up both GPS, the voltmeter/USB and the camera system. I can then take my time pulling videos into the camera app on my iPhone, plus use the other accessories without the key being on. Of course, I'd switch the sense side of the relay (86 pin). Thoughts?
My dash-cam and all the handlebar mounted accessories are individually switched (3). But there is also a master switch that allows me to power up\down everything (typically 4 items),,, with one press before the garage door is open. I can also turn off my gps/screens while still having my dvr powered up for video transfer to my phone via wifi. But I have to be sure to turn that off,,, or it will flatten the battery (did it once). Fortunately,, my master switch has a red indicator "on-LED",,, to help me to not be forgetful. Cheers,,, CAt'
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To close this out from my end, after the trip I mentioned in post #70 above, I added the SPDT switch for my Fuzeblock. Works great... it's normally in position 1 to trigger the Fuzeblock relay with ignition on. In position 2, it triggers the relay with battery power, which then powers my two GPS, camera and voltmeter without having to have the ignition on. A special thanks to @Larry Fine for the idea to use the SPDT switch. 
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