Add Switch to GPS Power

[paulcb]

I am a fan of a timed switch as well. I would consider a timer module on the switched power from the fuzeblock so that after you shut the bike off, the line continues to be live for the set duration. The benefit is no need to run a separate switch. The drawback is it is live for the duration every time you shut the bike off. That may not be a huge issue. If you are walking away from the bike, chances are you may be taking the gps with you anyhow, or you could shut off the unit.

Clever, I like this idea. But I don't like the GPS powered straight off my battery for an hour or so every time I shut the bike off. I do take it off most times, but if I'm camping, likely not.

 

[paulcb]

Yeah, I know, I was too lazy to draw the jumper.

Took me a minute.

 

[Roger]

The way I did my power socket through a switch.

One way is live via the ignition, the other live all the time. ...GPS plugged in or charger plugged in.
With a couple of fuses for protection.......

 

[paulcb]

Just to add, my SPDT switch idea doesn't need a diode.

Thinking about that... the switch would routinely stay on the Fuzeblock side until I want to use my GPS with the bike off. Then I just flip the switch to the GPS side to power my GPS.

To me, this seems to be the simplest and most effective option, along with eliminating the diode. Although I could still forget to flip the switch back, the times I would use this switch are at stops during a rally or touring, so I would normally just crank up the bike and go when done. Thoughts?

 

[paulcb]

BTW, I very much appreciate everyone's input... I'm getting much more out of this than I expected. Almost like an oil/tire/moly thread.

 

[paulcb]

I'm leaning towards this type of SPDT switch, two positions (Fuzeblock - GPS)


Or this type, 3 positions (Fuzeblock - Off -GPS)


Seems the 2 position is the better choice for what I want?

 

[Larry Fine]

Roger's schematic reflects my suggestion. (copy cat )

Seems the 2 position is the better choice for what I want?

Agreed. Center-off would be redundant with the fuze-block switch position.

 

[ST Gui]

I'm leaning towards this type of SPDT switch

Where are you finding those? My preference would be to have the GPS get its 12V from a source powered by an ACC connector that gets power when the key is in either the IGN or ACC position. Yes it means the bike's key has to be used but I wouldn't mind it.

 

[paulcb]

Where are you finding those? My preference would be to have the GPS get its 12V from a source powered by an ACC connector that gets power when the key is in either the IGN or ACC position. Yes it means the bike's key has to be used but I wouldn't mind it.

Those types of switches are all over the internet. I don't have an ACC position. See the first post of this thread for more explanation.

 

[ST Gui]

See the first post of this thread for more explanation.

I just checked your sidebar and am reminded you have an 1100.

 

[paulcb]

I just checked your sidebar and am reminded you have an 1100.

Good point... IIRC, the ST1300 does have an ACC position? I suspect if my ST11 did, I wouldn't have thought of doing this. I guess I'm trying to add a manual psuedo-ACC.

 

[Shawn K]

I suspect if my ST11 did, I wouldn't have thought of doing this.

Can't you just replace the ignition tumbler with something like this? - https://www.amazon.com/Emgo-40-15820-Replacement-Ignition-Switch/dp/B000GU7D0Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9

 

[T_C]

Good point... IIRC, the ST1300 does have an ACC position? I suspect if my ST11 did, I wouldn't have thought of doing this. I guess I'm trying to add a manual psuedo-ACC.

No, because the ACC position is about useless on the ST13. Unless you consider headlights an accessory. Kill your battery while programming your GPS in 10 minutes or less.
Now some of us do have a headlight cut switch and then the accessory positon is useable.

 

[Shawn K]

No, because the ACC position is about useless on the ST13. Unless you consider headlights an accessory. Kill your battery while programming your GPS in 10 minutes or less.
Now some of us do have a headlight cut switch and then the accessory positon is useable.

???

The ACC position on mine doesn't run the headlights at all. Did that change after '03?

 

[dduelin]

???

The ACC position on mine doesn't run the headlights at all. Did that change after '03?

The headlights don't come on with ACC on 2005s. I think they only come on with the key ON.

 

[Larry Fine]

The headlights don't come on with ACC on 2005s. I think they only come on with the key ON.

Anything else would be silly.

When I get ready to strip my bike for the first time to do all the wiring I want to do, I intend to relocate the wire that supplies the headlight-interrupt switch in the starter button from the headlight fuse wire to the switched side of the kill switch, so the kill switch also extinguishes the headlight.

This has the advantage of also allowing me to relocate the wire that feeds the headlight fuse from the ignition switch (and overheat-prone connections) to directly from the battery through a fusible link, which would otherwise keep the headlight on without the above modification.


Opinions welcome.

 

[Lowndes]

yes that should work but I would put a diode in there. If you accidentally start the bike with the switch on, the starter draw could suck the battery down in the gps. Durring cranking the battery voltage could drop 10.5 to 11 volts . That surge could damage the gps. I don't see a need to do that, my gps battery life is about 6hrs.

Paulcb,

I'm a CE but I replaced the battery in my Garmin not long ago. It was easy and cheap. The replacement battery was even larger (AH) than the OEM battery. It depends on your GPS, of course, but I wouldn't be to apprehensive about it.

There is a guy that repairs GPS units, batteries and screens, etc, PALMDR.COM, I think.Very reasonable, too.

I mounted a USB power outlet on my handlebars that has an on/off switch on it and is connected directly to the batter terminals. Works very well. $10 on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Dual-USB-12V-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Charger-Socket-with-Switch-Mounts-/253763950188

 

[Larry Fine]

yes that should work but I would put a diode in there. If you accidentally start the bike with the switch on, the starter draw could suck the battery down in the gps. Durring cranking the battery voltage could drop 10.5 to 11 volts . That surge could damage the gps. I don't see a need to do that, my gps battery life is about 6hrs.

That shouldn't occur, because he's not paralleling batteries. A 12v-to-5v power supply (or any other) doesn't work in reverse and discharge a battery through the source.

 

[ST Gui]

No, because the ACC position is about useless on the ST13. Unless you consider headlights an accessory. Kill your battery while programming your GPS in 10 minutes or less.

Yeah - no. On my 2010 the only thing that comes on IIRC is the clock illumination. The clock may be on even with the IGN off. I dunno. I can also turn on the hazard flashers in the ACC position. 10min battery life with incandescents 15-20 with LEDs? Now that I have a jumpstart battery kit I suppose I could test that out but I really don't want to take the battery to 0V.

My 305 (CL77) had a P position I think that turned on the tail lights. Maybe my GL1000 too. I'm not sure out my VF1000 Interceptor or V65 Sabre.

But I've been wanting to wire a relay to somewhere on the ACC side to run some position lights and who knows what.

 

[ST Gui]

I mounted a USB power outlet on my handlebars that has an on/off switch on it and is connected directly to the batter terminals. Works very well. $10 on ebay.

THAT looks like a very tidy unit with no drilling of Tup needed. Thanks for the link! I'm curious if there's any parasitic draw. You know- in case some kids come by and turn it on 'cuz I'd never accidentally leave it on.