Advice regarding ST1300 vs. R1200RT

[SupraSabre]

Hum, seeing you talk about buying basketcases, you caught my attention.

Currently I own five ST1300s. I have two '04s, '06, '10 & '12. I also owned, as my first ST1300, a '05 that I put 174.3K miles on.

The '05 & '12 were new when I bought them, the others were all wrecks, except the '06 which is truly a "basketcase"!

It's not cheap restoring any of the sport touring machines due to the price of the plastic, but one nice thing about the ST1300s, they were built from 2003 (2002 in Europe) until 2012 (USA, Europe/Canada went until 2014...I think) so, currently, there are plenty of available parts.

Yes, there are some differences between the '03-'07 and '08 & later. Also there are differences between the cop bikes and non cop bikes. But they all seem to have a lot of parts that are interchangeable.

None of my bikes have seen a Stealer Mechanic since my first '05, other than a couple of warranty work issues. When I decided I could screw things up no worse than the last mechanic did on that bike. That was 2008 and the bike had less than 38K on it at the time.

Since you have no qualms about doing your own work, I would suggest you going with a ST1300. Depending the mileage and condition of the 2006, I would probably swing that way too. But check the maintenance log on any bike you decide to buy.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[sgio]

I have a 2003, non-ABS which means no electric adjustable windshield. I THINK I would really like the adjustable windshield, but I don't know what I have been missing. They offered the ST1300 in 2003 with the electric windshield though. That's really the only outstanding thing to look for.

 

[Tedbrogden]

Rode a '99 R1100RT oilhead for 15 years. Now on a '06 ST 1300. In a lot of ways, the two bikes are very similar. I think the Beemer is a little quicker into tight turns, but I think I like the over all handling better on the ST. One area the Honda wins hands down is low speed around town. My BMW always surged at speeds below 35mph and I never could solve it. Bottom line is both are great bikes. See which one feels best to you.

 

[NobodySpecial]

I took a 2003 ST1300 for a highway ride of about 30 minutes today. My initial observations:

- unbelievably buzzy above 6000 rpm (is this normal? Balance shafts?)
- hate the pop on deceleration. The Delkevic pipes sound OK, but I'd wager I'd prefer stock.
- mileage was .. not great. To be fair, it was very windy today, but 37 mpg? At a sustained 75 indicated? Seems low.
+/- deceptively quick/fast. Kept finding myself going rather faster than intended.
+ incredibly strong midrange. 60-80 top-gear roll-on is very quick
+ barely a hint of vibration in the handlebars at an indicated 75 in top gear
- there is a hint of vibration in the footpegs, however
- it was very windy today, and from 60-80 mph the bike was dancing quite a bit. Especially behind or near larger vehicles.
+ the adjustable windshield/windscreen (a National Cycle V-something) was very effective, but when all the way up it exacerbated the (excessive?) sensitivity to the wind.
+/- the brakes seemed fine. I never got them to bite real hard, never felt the ABS kick in (I tried once or twice), but under heavy braking there didn't seem to be much front-end dive, either.
- A closer inspection of this unit reveals a small bit of corrosion here and there, and the bags didn't latch properly.
+ All in all, a surprisingly pleasant and strong performance. I think I could knock out some long days on one.
- If the throttle is closed and the rpm drops below maybe 2,000-3,000 rpm, it seems difficult to open the throttle "gently". A quick search confirms this as a common complaint.

I hope to test-ride an ST1100 (ABS) soon, if the one I'm looking at is available, and I still plan on test-riding a 2010 R1200RT.
If it weren't for the cruise control on the BMW, however, I suspect I'd have an obvious winner!

 

[okckeith]

Ride them all and see what works for you. There all good bikes. Only you can decide what works best for you.
I have 92,000 miles on my 07 ST1300. It is still as smooth as the day I bought it new.
The speedometer is off quite a bit. 77 indicated is 70 on my gps. Tire pressure, suspension setup and tires make a big difference on the way the ST1300 handles in my opinion. I run PR4 GT tires at 42 psi front and rear.
I rode a members 06 ST1300 last weekend that had 254,000 miles on it last weekend. That Motor felt just like new. He has replaced his ujoint at 125,000, his fuel pump for less than $30.00 one for a Honda Civic), and last year replaced his alternator that was still working. He rode it to Alaska last year. I think he has gotten his money out of that bike. And he’s not done with it yet.

 

[red one]

Yep. You gotta remember these are bikes that have some age/miles on them so they will not be perfect. little defects are ok. Big ones not. What many has said test them all.

 

[Svrdhd]

Just to add, that gas mileage is low, normal highway MPG is low to mid 40’s. If that’s blended city/highway it may be normal.

 

[SupraSabre]

Unless you live in Kalifornia where 39 to 41mpg is normal. They put crap in our gas, which causes us not to get the mileage that others are getting!

 

[NobodySpecial]

After an exhaustive search, I've found two examples of ST's that are on my list. For whatever reason, only the blue and red models did anything for me (although I did find a 2010 with only 2,000 miles that was quite compelling). Both of the ones I'm percolating on are owned by members of this board!

 

[SupraSabre]

After an exhaustive search, I've found two examples of ST's that are on my list. For whatever reason, only the blue and red models did anything for me (although I did find a 2010 with only 2,000 miles that was quite compelling). Both of the ones I'm percolating on are owned by members of this board!

A 2010 with only 2,000 miles? I would go for that one, but check the maintenance records and see if the fluids have been replaced.

 

[ATA]

Really happy with my 'new' '07! Can't give any advice on other years, but this forum is the place to find just about anything you need to know about them. (FYI-picked mine up for $4400 w/ 20,650 miles on it) Seemed to be a good deal based on all the ones I looked at (in the Atlanta area, bought it in Louisville, KY)

 

[NobodySpecial]

A 2010 with only 2,000 miles? I would go for that one, but check the maintenance records and see if the fluids have been replaced.

According to the description (is it OK to post a link to cycletrader?), it still has the original tires on it. I'd wager that - perhaps other than a battery and an oil change - it's not seen any maint. at all. That would be mildly worrisome. Plus, it's the wrong color (it's not Red).

 

[SupraSabre]

According to the description (is it OK to post a link to cycletrader?), it still has the original tires on it. I'd wager that - perhaps other than a battery and an oil change - it's not seen any maint. at all. That would be mildly worrisome. Plus, it's the wrong color (it's not Red).

I don't care what ANYBODY says, the less miles the better, as long as there isn't any rust in the fuel tank and by flushing out the fluids everything is working good!

Most people do not understand why you don't ride on old tires, I don't care how good the tread looks, so many aren't going to replace them just because the are old...hey "They still LOOK good!"

Okay, so you change ALL the fluids and put on new tires, You'll have a new bike! When it comes to older bikes, sometimes you just have to "settle" for what's available. A ST1300 with 2,000 miles and that's available?

In Late 2005, I bought a 2005 ST1300 , because they were all out of the 2004 . In 2013 I bought a 2010 with about 1,500 miles that had been totaled. Because it was missing a lot of pieces and the existing pieces were messed up, I bought all new 2004 tupperware for it. So now I have a 2010. I also happened upon a complete set of tupperware, I now have a 2004. Oh yeah, and I have a mixed set (old/New) of 2005 tupperware, that I will probably put on my 2004#1 when I get it back into running condition.

Tupperware can be painted, replaced or even traded. But the heart of it all is the mechanics....newer is better...(Usually)

 

[NobodySpecial]

OK, let's assume for a moment that I'm interested in this 2010 w/2K miles. It's at $6500 right now. It would need tires (call it $600 w/labor) and all fluids changed out (according to my dealer, that's about $500). It's also *1200* miles away. Before I fly out (and ride back home), I'd have to get some guarantees from the owner that the tank is in good shape, etc. Is is really easy to detect rust in the fuel tank?

 

[SMSW]

i would think you could pull one of the hoses off the bottom of the tank and pour some gas into the tank and let it drain - clean gas means no rust. Or get a cheap borescope.

 

[NobodySpecial]

I'd say that's a good price. I love fly and rides.
I believe you said it was owned by a forum member.
That is usually a plus.
Best of luck with your ST search.

The one with 2,000 miles is not owned by a member of this board that I'm aware of.
The other two examples are (50K and ~100K, respectively).

How likely is it that things like springs and shocks and fork seals, etc. will need replacement soon?
If I picked up the one w/only 2,000 miles, I'm budgeting $1100 for tires and fluids and labor. The tires before I ride it back home and the fluids thereafter.

 

[ATA]

The one with 2,000 miles is not owned by a member of this board that I'm aware of.
The other two examples are (50K and ~100K, respectively).

How likely is it that things like springs and shocks and fork seals, etc. will need replacement soon?
If I picked up the one w/only 2,000 miles, I'm budgeting $1100 for tires and fluids and labor. The tires before I ride it back home and the fluids thereafter.

Looks like you've found a diamond in the ruff! You just need tires/fluids and tell your Honda mech to do a full checkout. Basically a new bike for a fraction of the price of a new one. Enjoy!

 

[SMSW]

I'm gasping at the $1100 price for fluids and tires. Sure, tires will set you back $300 to 400 plus mounting (100 if you pull the wheels). Brake fluid ($30 for two quarts of stuff recommended for BMW and Mercedes cars - DOT4) and Aunt Freeze another $20 to 30. You should learn to take the tupperware off and you should own a shop manual - maybe $50 on Fleabay.

Why am I pushing you to do the work yourself? I blew a thou at my local dealer-he diagnosed the problem wrong and I had no idea what was the cause of the noise (sorry guys, but nobody here nailed the problem). Many others have had horror stories about tires mounted backward and similar poor workmanship to what my dealer did. There is no reason why you cannot pull the plastic, bleed the brakes and clutch, and change the coolant. It really is no big deal. You might even be able to find someone nearby from the Forum who can help you w/ the work and make a new friend.

 

[wczimmerman]

OK, let's assume for a moment that I'm interested in this 2010 w/2K miles. It's at $6500 right now. It would need tires (call it $600 w/labor) and all fluids changed out (according to my dealer, that's about $500). It's also *1200* miles away. Before I fly out (and ride back home), I'd have to get some guarantees from the owner that the tank is in good shape, etc. Is is really easy to detect rust in the fuel tank?

Where is the 2010 that is 1200 miles away? Maybe a handy ST'er is nearby, can check it out, maybe even do some/all of the services for 50% of the fee?

 

[SupraSabre]

Whjen I bought the 2012, it was in Washington State, some 1,200+ miles away. I have a son in Portland, so I flew into Portland, we with the help of ToddC and the salesman pushed the bike up into the back of my sons truck and we carted it back near his house where there was an offloading ramp. I used his garage to add my FARKLEs on so I could ride it home comfortably. I rode about 600 miles to my mom's house, where I changed the oil and then rode the rest of the 500 miles home.

Picking up my 2012

In three years I have just over 20,000 miles on it. I replaced the tires soon after i bought it and have replaced most of the fluids. (still need to do the forks)

What I'm suggesting is to sound out to the forum to find folks on your route where you could get the things done better and cheaper. And BTW, if the bike is near me, I have all the tools to get things done!