Center Stand removal and shortening

Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Messages
318
Age
81
Location
MA
Bike
09 ST1300A
I would appreciate any details on how to remove the center stand from my ST1300.
Way back, I lowered my front forks about 3/8" which help me to flat foot better when stopped.
That lowering, plus my 77 years (ha- excuse) makes it very difficult for me to roll her up on the center stand.
I'm recovering from right foot surgery now which I feel was partially exacerbated by my struggling to set the bike up on the centerstand.

I'd like to remove the center stand, cut and shorten it about an inch, have it re-welded. But it looked to me like it was difficult to remove.
Help :hat1:
 
Another option is to roll your rear tire onto a 1/2" or 3/4" thick piece of wood. Will make it much easier to get onto the center stand, without modifying anything. Bevel the front of the wood to make it easier to roll onto.
 
If you must remove the center stand, get a roll of dimes, and take a small screw driver and insert the blade between coils enough to place a dime in the gap. Do this several times.
This will lengthen the spring and allow it to be lifted off easily. To replace it, simply hook one end, hold it in place, and start removing the dimes with a pair of needle nose pliers.
That's my .02 cents worth (see what I did there?) :rofl1:
However, as Paulcb pointed out, rolling up on a piece of wood, or better yet, a thick piece of rubber (think cook's kitchen mat at home depot) so it won't slip around, is a much easier, fix.
You can carry a 12x12 square of rubber in your saddlebag when you travel.
 

This states if you do try and remove it and shorten it that it won't clear the bodywork.
 
Has anyone here removed a center stand on a ST1300 before? :think1:

There is only one way to do it. You have to remove the right side headers (or just drop both sides of the headers, together) . Or you will never get the "Pipe", Main Stand pivot out. BTDT more than once!

BTW, when it comes to getting the ST1300 on it's center stand, it really does matter if the bags are on or off (or have a bunch of weight in them) plus if you have a topcase, adding more weight to the rear of the bike. :weight1:
 
Last edited:
I always rolled my ST1300 up on a 10” long piece of 2 X 6 that’s beveled on one end. Have to use it now for the Versys, since I’ve lowered it.

John
 
Has anyone here removed a center stand on a ST1300 before? :think1:

There is only one way to do it. You have to remove the right side headers (or just drop both sides of the headers, together) . Or you will never get the "Pipe", Main Stand pivot out. BTDT more than once!

This thread https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-centre-stand-removal.143383/ said the OP in it couldn't get the pivot out (due to corrosion most likely) and ended up mushrooming the end despite heat and penetraing fluid. It seems you need to remove some Tupperwear, the exhaust, O2 sensor etc. to get at the parts.
 
If you must remove the center stand, get a roll of dimes, and take a small screw driver and insert the blade between coils enough to place a dime in the gap. Do this several times.
This will lengthen the spring and allow it to be lifted off easily. To replace it, simply hook one end, hold it in place, and start removing the dimes with a pair of needle nose pliers.
That's my .02 cents worth (see what I did there?) :rofl1:
However, as Paulcb pointed out, rolling up on a piece of wood, or better yet, a thick piece of rubber (think cook's kitchen mat at home depot) so it won't slip around, is a much easier, fix.
You can carry a 12x12 square of rubber in your saddlebag when you travel.

No need to pry all the coils apart. I use nickels instead of dimes. Put the stand down, insert nickels, off the center stand and the spring will slip right off...if you have used enough nickels. Replace the spring with the stand up. Bend the spring until you can insert some nickels, bend the other way and repeat until the spring will install. Put the bike up on the center stand and pick up your nickles.
 
This thread https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-centre-stand-removal.143383/ said the OP in it couldn't get the pivot out (due to corrosion most likely) and ended up mushrooming the end despite heat and penetraing fluid. It seems you need to remove some Tupperwear, the exhaust, O2 sensor etc. to get at the parts.

The O2 sensors can be left in place, if you don't remove the headers completely.

I have my '04 right now sitting with one of the sensors removed, but not the other. once I get the coolant lines replaced to the oil cooler, I'll button up the headers again!
 
I haven't had to remove a ST1300 center stand but I did the kick stand and the RT's center stand and kick stand have both been off last month for maintenance. A bunch of coins work but a tie down ratchet strap works a charm to get the springs off and back on in a jiffy. Power of the lever and inclined plane.
 
I was curious as to how much difference 3/8" would make with the stock side stand. As it is there are road conditions where putting it on the side stand makes me feel like

main-qimg-f18d7cc674bf3f9c44d81bd149822433-c


and needing to work on my quads doesn't help any. :rofl1:
 
Yeah, the side stand issue would concern me, unless I cut that down too. IMO, there are a myriad of reasons not to modify the centerstand when you can get the same or better results just by rolling it on a spacer of some sort. The only time I use the centerstand is when I need to work on the bike.
 
Thanks guys, for lots of input here and a couple more links for me to peruse.

PS: the 3/8" I lowered my forks has not made my side stand lean angle any problem.
 
Another ST-O member who is short bought a used center stand, had his brother cut the leg you put your foot on and weld in a short extension reasoning that this would increase the lever arm and make lifting the bike easier. I bought it from him when he was selling his bike. It works like a charm. However, the longer arm now sticks up in the space where a pillion rider's foot normally resides. Not a problem for me riding alone, but it would be for any passenger. I don't know how this mod will behave on a lowered bike.

When I yanked the header, I anti seize gooped the header bolts and replaced the copper gaskets in the cylinder head. Don't forget to reduce the torque 15 to 20% for lubed studs.

Somewhere along the line I injured my foot and could not center stand the bike even with this extension. I cut a piece of wood about 1" thick, 7" wide, and a foot long , beveled one edge and tried rolling the bike's rear wheel up on the wood. My garage floor is clean and smooth and the wood sometimes slid back. There happened to be a control joint tooled in the floor where I park the bike, so I cut a triangle of wood, nailed it to the bottom of the plank and placed it on the floor w/ the wedge sitting in the control joint. The wood cannot possibly slip and it works perfectly.
 
Thanks again for your info and help. After reading your responses, viewing the links and taking another close look at the center stand on my ST; I also agree that there is no useful and practical way to shorten the stand without causing unwanted interference problems.
I'll do what a number of you did, I'll make up a wood riser to run the front wheel up on before setting the center stand.
Mucho thanks !
 
I made a wood riser ramp (as others have done) to roll the front wheel up onto.
It works great for me, makes it much easier for me to roll her up on the centerstand now.
The 1st photo shows the final position of my bike after I rolled her up to the ramp stop, then rolled her onto the centerstand.
3rd photo is my dimensions.

Pos. on C'stand .JPGView.JPGDimensions.jpg
 
Well, I was looking to sandblast and repaint my main stand but that pivot tube is a real pain!
This job really is "The cake isn't worth the candles" - there must be another way of replacing that tube with something just as good that means we can remove the stand without involving the exhaust system, this needs to be a 2 minute job.
I'm chewing over the idea of 2 x Stainless Shoulder bolts at the moment.:think1:

 
I made a wood riser ramp (as others have done) to roll the front wheel up onto.
It works great for me, makes it much easier for me to roll her up on the centerstand now.
The 1st photo shows the final position of my bike after I rolled her up to the ramp stop, then rolled her onto the centerstand.
3rd photo is my dimensions.

Pos. on C'stand .JPGView.JPGDimensions.jpg

That looks good. I don't know how you attached the stop, but you might want to consider adding a shim between the ramp and the floor as additional security to support the bike's weight.
 
2/18/2023 Mileage 76,342
I took a lot of cues, advice and “what not to do” from others on the “Center Stand Removal” thread.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/center-stand-removal.171602/

I started with bike on side stand, removed the lower cowel, wire brushed the dirt and rust from the “Pipe, Main Stand Pivot” area, then sprayed on “Blaster” rust penatrater.
I wanted to be sure the the pivot pipe would be free to move or rotate before disassembling too much, due to difficulties others had mentioned.

After a few minutes I removed the pivot pipe flange bolt, then was able to rotate the pipe by grabbing the pivot pipe flange with my channel lock plyers.
With that success I removed the (right side) middle cowl, the muffler, the manifold bolts, loosened the manifolds crossover clamp, and removed the pivot pipe cotter pin.
Then I rotated the manifold down (CW) to allow clearance for the pin to come out. Then I removed pivot pipe and center stand.
( I did all disassembly from the right side and did not have to remove cowels from the left side )

I believe I can safely remove aprox. 1/2” from the bottom of the center stand without causing any problems, I will post that result when I accomplish it.
1 Muffler Removed.jpg2 Manifold Disconnected.jpg3 Cross Pipe Clamp.jpg4 C.Stand:Pin Assy.jpg5 Manifold Rotated Down.jpg6 Pin Rotated C-Stand.jpg7 Pin Coming Out.jpg8 C.Stand Off.jpgPhotos attached.
 
Back
Top Bottom