H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

Obo

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Well I pulled the offender back out this afternoon. I think more of it came apart than was supposed to cause the picture is a little different than Spiderman302's pic. I shot the base with D5 Deoxit and the armature too. Putting back together had me thinking, this aint gonna work. It did go back and I powered it up on the bench with 8 volts. The thing spun up without a complaint! I shot a video of the right side fan at the turn of the key. The video is on Youtube here. Back to a happy clam but I'm buying a backup set tonight! Safego offered me a 30% discount on a replacement set due to me being out of warranty. Amazon has the set for $50 so a 30% discount works for me.
If you compare your & Spiderman's pictures the difference is when you pulled apart the fan the inner rotor came out on the fan on yours, vs Spiderman's where the rotor stayed in the windings.
 

paulcb

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26
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I was wondering when you'd ask. :biggrin: Old-school original Definitive Technology:
L & R: BP2000
Ctr: CLR2000
Sides: BPX
Rears: BP20


Wait until you ask about the image. :cool:
Sounds like y'all need a home stereo thread! I couldn't add anything worthwhile to it, but would enjoy following along. ;)
 
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spiderman302
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NEW thread started........

back to LEDs

If you compare your & Spiderman's pictures the difference is when you pulled apart the fan the inner rotor came out on the fan on yours, vs Spiderman's where the rotor stayed in the windings.
It is not the rotor but rather the fixed brass bearing that came out with the white plastic lock clip that holds the shaft in place....
 

Obo

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NEW thread started........

back to LEDs

It is not the rotor but rather the fixed brass bearing that came out with the white plastic lock clip that holds the shaft in place....
Wrong part name, same part difference :)

Either way that part (the bearing) should be loose on the fan blades shaft I believe.
 
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D5 is my go to for anything mechanically electric. If that is anywhere near correct. No moly here..... I have no clue as to how long it will last or how well. I have yet to actually take a ride! The fan would freak out at 35mph. That fact is what makes me think that there's some wind in there while riding! Long intersections are where a non-fan led may have zome izzues.....
 

Obo

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One of the joys of being confined to home is the time one can spend re-analyzing things.

@spiderman302 with regards to the M1's (the ones to watch...), does this appear to be one of them? It appears similar to the F2, has the LED's for high and low offset, LEDs are smaller which = focused, is smaller in length as you said, and has an integrated driver. Brightness is likely overstated... and there's no listing on what chips are used, nor does it show side depth or exact chip placements.



tempsnip.png
 
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spiderman302
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That one is the M1 bulb which has the focus and correct led shape like the F2. The F2 is 35 watts and the M1 is 30 watts.
The M1 does not have the power converter in the middle of the cable like the F2 so it is simpler to install.
The M1 is a little longer so It might not fit in some spaces, but both work in the ST1300.
The W6 is their latest bulb but it is only 18 watts which makes it more "equivalent" to the H4 bulb.
I still prefer the brighter F2 bulb for the freeway speeds that I ride at night (winter time).
You need 4 times more light to see twice as far..... The 20% difference between the M1 and F2 is not noticeable.
You will be happy with the M1 bulb.

I have been too busy with family and other things (including riding...), that keeping up with LED's has fallen to the back burner......
 
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Only an observation...... there seem to be many copies of the F2's out there now, they look identical with different packaging.......... if you look up F2 LED headlamps on ebay, and just scan through the pics on the listings..... is F2 now the new standard, LOL?
 

ST Gui

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RaYzerman said:
is F2 now the new standard, LOL?
It well could be a de facto standard anyway. spiderman did a lot of research and worked with a Chinese company to make an LED bulb that puts light where we needed and they listened.

Now it may be that other manufacturers picked up on the design's utility/functionality or that one manufacturer makes that design for several vendors and branded as their own.

Either way we get a better bulb and lower battery drain out of the deal. I wish manufacturers would warm it up a tad. Halogen H4s are waay too warm for my taste and if memory serves they were (K) cooler than the incandescent that proceeded them! Just spit ballin' here but I think I'd prefer something around 4500K to 5000K. Depending on where you look you get a different definition of 'daylight'.

 
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Only an observation...... there seem to be many copies of the F2's out there now, they look identical with different packaging.......... if you look up F2 LED headlamps on ebay, and just scan through the pics on the listings..... is F2 now the new standard, LOL?
How does one find a "real" F2 instead of the cheapest "F2"?
 

ST Gui

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I think spiderman was working with Evitek for the first F2 design. Some got them from Amazon. Others got them directly from Cindy Zhou at Evitek.
 
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I think spiderman was working with Evitek for the first F2 design. Some got them from Amazon. Others got them directly from Cindy Zhou at Evitek.
Are you saying that they're "real" as long as they're branded Evitek, or that the only sure source is Cindy?

If the latter, I'd be interested in contact info for her, thanx.
 
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If you look at ebay ads, the original F2's come in a yellow box marked F2. I've found them as low as U$40 and have bought a few sets for various bikes. I only bought the G6's way back, directly from Cindy...
Agree with Larry..... I'd prefer a warmer hue as well around 5000k.
 
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Interestingly enough; the set of two F2's I'd purchased in 2018/Mar just experienced a failure in one of the low beam LED (left side mounting, left side of bulb). High beam is fine both sides. When I sent Cindy an email at the evitekid.com address, I'd received a response and pricing, but my return email bounced, and the address that payment was to be Paypal'd to was the generic *123.com. In addition the evitekhid.com URL isn't current (landing page states it isn't authorized), but they can be found at www.evitekelectronic.com. I've not yet received a response to the last two followup emails to cindy@evitekhid.com (they've not been reported bouncing), so I'm not feeling quite as secure ordering them as the first time around...

When I get around to pulling the unit, I'll have to see what the exact failure mode is.
 

Obo

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That one is the M1 bulb which has the focus and correct led shape like the F2. The F2 is 35 watts and the M1 is 30 watts.
The M1 does not have the power converter in the middle of the cable like the F2 so it is simpler to install.
The M1 is a little longer so It might not fit in some spaces, but both work in the ST1300.
The W6 is their latest bulb but it is only 18 watts which makes it more "equivalent" to the H4 bulb.
I still prefer the brighter F2 bulb for the freeway speeds that I ride at night (winter time).
You need 4 times more light to see twice as far..... The 20% difference between the M1 and F2 is not noticeable.
You will be happy with the M1 bulb.

I have been too busy with family and other things (including riding...), that keeping up with LED's has fallen to the back burner......
Thanks for your input. I completely understand the "other things" taking priority.
 
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Update on my own order: Cindy did get back to myself, stating she received the payment, but apparently (paraphrasing) several companies in China have stopped shipping deliveries to the Great White North, and they're looking for alternative shippers...
 
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