I think I have a leak

cagou64 said:
Thanks a lot @Igofar
Have you any tips for the procedure to set new hoses, specially the one going to the oil coolant radiator at the back of the engine ?
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Use a pair of long handled needle nose pliers, come from below and behind to get at those hoses to and from the oil cooler.
 
cagou64 said:
@dduelin, with long handle neddle nose pliers, I succeded to remove the hose but to connect the new one I don't, i am impelled by the lever of the gearshift selector
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Hmmn, I was able to remove and install the new hoses with the needlenose pliers. I think I probably swabbed a tiny amount of silicone grease inside the end of the hose.... too long ago to remember. I remember I did not have to remove the shift lever mechanism.
 
may be the part of the branches who are perpandicular to the handle, 3 cm on my pliers are too short, I will try again tomorrow with some silicone at the end of the hose;
thanks a lot dduelin
 
cagou64 said:
may be the part of the branches who are perpandicular to the handle, 3 cm on my pliers are too short, I will try again tomorrow with some silicone at the end of the hose;
thanks a lot dduelin
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Use a bit of anti seize inside the hose and it will slip right on. Ask me how I know, @Igofar
 
cagou64 said:
may be the part of the branches who are perpandicular to the handle, 3 cm on my pliers are too short, I will try again tomorrow with some silicone at the end of the hose;
thanks a lot dduelin
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These are about 3 cm long.IMG_1955.jpg
 
@ddueline: thanks for the picture of pliers, the one on the left are similar to the one I have
@ cjames: about anti seize, is a kind of WD40 would be considerde as anti seize ?
 
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cagou64 said:
@ddueline: thanks for the picture of pliers, the one on the left are similar to the one I have
@ cjames: about anti seize, is a kind of WD40 would be considerde as anti seize ?
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There is also an aluminum version. Either works
MT-M805.jpg
 
Here is what I did to my 91 St1100 at 91k miles on the clock, which is real close to the amount shown on your clock.

I had been experiencing a slight weep at the weep hole on the pump since the about 86k mark, but just always refilling and making sure I had enough to get through the next two weeks of life in the big city. Timing belt replacement is scheduled every 90k for these beasts, so.... I replaced "ALL" the hoses, O-rings and anything that had to do with the water system. Fan Thermo Switch, Thermostat and o-ring there, Pressurized filler cap ...etc... What was the reason for doing "EVERYTHING" this way? Well..... once you get into this bike, you will realize that you are not going to want to "Pull the WHOLE Bike Apart" again right away to chase down another "where is it" leak. Do it all and be done with it, till another 86k sets in.
I also found things when I did the maintenance that I am glad to have rectified. I was working in a savage yard when I got the bike 56k on the clock. I got it rolling and did the recommended maintenance till the 91k. But what I found was parts like the thermostat and housing and hose mounts on the back of the engine had been eroded by electrolysis from someone not changing the radiator fluid every two years. The thermostat was amazingly destroyed. The fan switch was also lagging because I noticed an increase of rpm when the fan kicked on and ran at the speed of "normal". Only thing I do regret is not changing the temperature sending unit to the gauge. Yah, I was cheep.. Ha.. It still reads, but I bet there will be a change when I do. Ok so Every thing but the radiator and sending unit.... It's been 3 or 4 years and 12k more miles and no problems other than the red wire bypass thing so I am happy with an again dependable steed.
 
hi!
thanks @cjames and I agree with you Franklin, It's better to take the oportunity when you have removed the throttle body to change the hoses , joints, .. on a bike this age,
but presently I face a challenge in succeeding to connect hoses at the back of the engine due to the very small space. I hope I will keep control!
 
cagou64 said:
about anti seize, is a kind of WD40 would be considerde as anti seize ?
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Just my personal preference, but I don't use any kind of lubricant, anti-seize compound, penetrating fluid, oil, grease, etc., that is petroleum based as a lubricant for installing any kind of rubber or synthetic material unless I know for certain that it can not damage that material. A product like anti-seize will not disappear. It will remain in contact with the hose for years going through thousands of heat cycles with an unknown effect. I know many people do it without issue, but I see no reason to experiment and find that one-off combination that rotted my hose.

It is a less risky option to use a rubber safe silicone lubricant such as what is sold for lubricating rubber brake parts. It is a very innocuous lubricant.
In my opinion, the best option is O-ring lubricant. It is slippery, it is very inert, and it is intended to work with pretty much every type of material that any fitting, hose, O-ring, rubber part on a vehicle could possibly be made out of without harming it. One small tube will last your life-time.
 
Thanks Andrew for your opinion,

Other question regarding the set up of the small clamps on these hoses : how did you proceed to set up them on these hoses we are talking about these last posts ?
I think you set up them on the hose before trying to connect the hose, first problem to prevent the clamp to sleep down before connecting properly the hose and secondary to prevent the clamp to turn around the hose when trying to tight it ?

If I tight the clamp on the hose before connecting, I wonder how I'll be able then to loosen it to set him at the right location once the hose is connected because of the so small space that makes to use a tool that will afford to unscrew it at the place it was set before connection !

Thanks in advance for your tips
 
Hi, finally, with a big amount of serenity, a small amount of silicone grease, the 90 degree pliers and some thinking to find the better way for the pliers to push the hoses, in the end I succeeded. The challenge was also to prevent the rotation of the clamp around the hose when tightening that clamps, mainly the right one.
For information, to prevent the clamp from sleeping down when pushing the hose, I used small elastics to hold them .
Also to prevent damage on the hose when puhing with the plier, I strapped health plaster (not slippery) around the end of the branches.

Now the work keeps on!
 
Hi everybody
I achieved the assembly of all parts, made a static trial once the throttle body had been set back, and as obviously there was no evidence of leaks, after completing the assembly I conducted a short trial,something like 40 km, due to raining conditions not optimum to check leaks, it looked good but will confirm with a longer trial next time.
Anyway many thanks to all contributors, Cjames, Ddueline, Igofar, Andrew and Fraiklin.
Took also the oportunity waiting for spares to reset the pre-load adjustor , using your post about this topic.
 
I'm replacing the coolant hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the oil cooler because it is chaffed through. I checked the parts list to see if the original had a protective sleeve, doesn't. Where can I find the sleeving that mother Honda uses on the coolant lines on the right side of the motor? I have wire bundle sleeving if nothing else.
 
cjames431 said:
I'm replacing the coolant hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the oil cooler because it is chaffed through. I checked the parts list to see if the original had a protective sleeve, doesn't. Where can I find the sleeving that mother Honda uses on the coolant lines on the right side of the motor? I have wire bundle sleeving if nothing else.
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it is not from the mother ship but look at this.

Heavy Duty Braided Sleeving - WireCare.com

www.wirecare.com www.wirecare.com
they also list other protective wrap products.
 
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