Question on Risers

How do I know which BMW grips to get that will fit my bike? I've heard that it's a standard 7/8" but I've also read that the ST1100 has weird ends that mean you can't just get any grip for a 7/8" bar. And I presume that even at 7/8", I still need 1" for the right hand throttle?
 
When you buy a set of grips for 7/8" bars you get one for the left side and one slightly larger to fit on the throttle tube. It's possible that some grips are stretchy enough that they're the same size. But get a set for 7/8" bars and you're good to go.

The STs have bar end weights so any grips you get need the outboard ends open so the weights can be mounted. The BMW grips are open-ended as are many grips. A sharp knife (or hole saw for the Grab-On Deluxe Road Grips) could make almost any set of 7/8" grips fit the bike.
 
Zeoran said:
How do I know which BMW grips to get that will fit my bike? I've heard that it's a standard 7/8" but I've also read that the ST1100 has weird ends that mean you can't just get any grip for a 7/8" bar. And I presume that even at 7/8", I still need 1" for the right hand throttle?
Click to expand...

Has anyone mentioned "Grip Puppies" to you yet? They are a black foam sleeve that easily fits over the stock grips. Very durable and fattens up the grip very nicely. I bought mine through California Sport Touring a number of years ago.
 
Zeoran said:
What's the max height I can rise them while still using the stock cover? I'm trying to get as much into a more sitting position as I can without having to get new cables/hoses and without losing the stock cover, which I like.

I'm also looking for a new set of grips. The previous owner put on pair that have really hard rubber spots on them and they're not comfortable for the daily commute I do, especially with my weight still leaning forward more than I'd like. I put a set of foam covers on them when I first got the bike and they definitely help, but I'd like to get some grips that are more comfortable by default and won't make my hands go numb like these do.
Click to expand...
I put Kuryakyn ISO grips on my ST1300, use them on all my bikes, very comfortable without being too soft! and you can still use the weighted ends.
 
Yes, I have the foam covers on my bike now. But they are covering the grips that the PO put on which are not comfortable, even with the foam pads. The foam just shrinks over the hard rubber pieces and the grips are usable but still not comfortable. If I had stock grips, I'd probably be fine. But the PO put on grips like the ones below.

242687
 
Zeoran said:
Yes, I have the foam covers on my bike now. But they are covering the grips that the PO put on which are not comfortable, even with the foam pads. The foam just shrinks over the hard rubber pieces and the grips are usable but still not comfortable. If I had stock grips, I'd probably be fine. But the PO put on grips like the ones below.
Click to expand...


Did you know the OEM grips are still available? These are found under "Switch/Cable" on the ST1100 fiches.

Honda 53166-422-305 - GRIP, L. HANDLE (COO) : PartsFish.com

www.partsfish.com www.partsfish.com

Honda 53140-MT3-305 - GRIP ASSY., THROTTLE (COO) : PartsFish.com

www.partsfish.com www.partsfish.com
 
Last edited:
I thought I looked through all the sections looking for those.

Is there any way to tell (without taking the existing grips apart) whether I can get away with just buying the "Handle"'s? They are cheap enough, but if I have to buy the weights and everything, it gets pricey fast. But if I can just buy the 2 grips themselves, it's less than $20. I tried taking off the existing grips once, they just have the 4 screws with allen heads on them on the end, but either time has got them on there good or the PO used grip glue because they didn't budge. I wasn't putting too much effort into it, because I didn't want to damage them, since I don't have a way to repair/replace them at the time.
 
If you can squirt some lacquer thinner, or brake cleaner into the ends of those grips you have, you should be able to dissolve any glue in there. It may take some time and several squirts to work it in. Be very careful not to get any spray onto any painted surface you value though. Cover everything well.

I take it you don't have the bar end weights? You might find a used pair. Make sure they come from a 1995 or later model, as the inner weight that the bar end screws to took a different sized bolt than pre '95's.
 
Thing is, I'm not sure if the stock weights are inside those grips or not. I guess I won't be able to tell until I work them off. Maybe I'll try this weekend and see if I can get the existing grips off without damaging things so I can see what's what. Hopefully, the weights and such are still there and I can just buy replacement grip covers and be good. At the moment, I'm still fighting with the Givi E52 Maxia trunk. I took it apart trying to fix the brake lights (which I did) but in the process, the locking mechanism isn't going back on quite right. Another high priority for me right now is getting new brake pads for the front brakes. I checked the rotor thickness and it's on the high end, so the rotors are fine, but I'd like more stopping power and the pads are worn down. I'm also not sure if the pads currently on there are OEM or not, I plan on replacing them with OEM pads.

Thanks for the advice.

God bless.
 
Zeoran said:
Thing is, I'm not sure if the stock weights are inside those grips or not. I guess I won't be able to tell until I work them off. Maybe I'll try this weekend and see if I can get the existing grips off without damaging things so I can see what's what. Hopefully, the weights and such are still there and I can just buy replacement grip covers and be good. At the moment, I'm still fighting with the Givi E52 Maxia trunk. I took it apart trying to fix the brake lights (which I did) but in the process, the locking mechanism isn't going back on quite right. Another high priority for me right now is getting new brake pads for the front brakes. I checked the rotor thickness and it's on the high end, so the rotors are fine, but I'd like more stopping power and the pads are worn down. I'm also not sure if the pads currently on there are OEM or not, I plan on replacing them with OEM pads.

Thanks for the advice.

God bless.
Click to expand...

The bar weights are a two part item. There is the part that is visible, on a stock bike, that sits on the end of the handlebar and is held in place by one long screw. Inside the bar is another lead weight, but it is held in place, fiercely, I might add, by serrated teeth, IIRC. They are damn near impossible to remove, so I would suspect the PO left them in there when he changed the grips.
 
Zeoran said:
Yes, I have the foam covers on my bike now. But they are covering the grips that the PO put on which are not comfortable, even with the foam pads. The foam just shrinks over the hard rubber pieces and the grips are usable but still not comfortable. If I had stock grips, I'd probably be fine. But the PO put on grips like the ones below.

242687
Click to expand...
That’s the grips I use, if you remove the end caps you can install the stock end weights.
Of course if you don’t like the grips it’s a mute issue, I use them on all my bikes.
 
So you're confirming that the grips I currently have do NOT have the stock end weights? Which means I would need to buy them, along with the stock grips to replace them?

This is becoming more of a problem than I had anticipated as the current grips are making my hands numb after just 20 minutes of riding at high speed. The stock grips were only like $8 but the end weights were like $25, so I want to make sure what I need to buy before I pull the trigger on this. Thanks.
 
Zeoran said:
So you're confirming that the grips I currently have do NOT have the stock end weights?
Click to expand...

It seems you are unaware of what they look like, so here's a pic. If you don't have those, you need them, their bolts and the grips, but also make sure that the inner weights, inside the bars,
are there first.

242920
 
I'll need to pry off the existing grips to find out. Not something I think i can pull off in a single night, but maybe I'll try this weekend and see. Last weekend, I spent trying to get the brake lights on my Givi E52 Maxia trunk working and then trying to get the trunk latch to work properly again, which I still haven't done. It latches, but not like it did when I first got it. The LED lights were all cold-soldered and the contacts on the bottom of the trunk were corroded as well. I've taken the thing apart 4 times now trying to get the alignment better to see if it makes a difference and it never does. I'm not sure why it's not latching like it used to. The lock works but the part that actually lips over the trunk lid and then locks down doesn't quite lock down properly anymore. I have to push it down and then turn the key to lock it in place. I know everything's in the proper place and I lubed the locking mechanism lightly and the screws can't be put in wrong, so I just don't know why it's not closing properly. But I've resigned myself to how it works now. It just cost me all Sunday. Saturday was spent getting my son ready for a week-long camping trip with his church group. This is one of the times I hate being a 'single' parent.

Thanks for the pictures and the advice. The grips are definitely high on my "to do" list.
 
Zeoran said:
I'll need to pry off the existing grips to find out.
Click to expand...

Just take those end caps off of the grips you have. That should expose the end of the handlebar and you should see a threaded hole in the inner weight, just inside the end of the handlebar.
 
Ok, here's what I see when the caps are off... I honestly can't tell if the end weights are in there or not. I'll rely on your judgment. I'm pretty sure the one on the right is the throttle, but I forgot to label the pictures.

243025243026
 
Zeoran said:
Ok, here's what I see when the caps are off... I honestly can't tell if the end weights are in there or not. I'll rely on your judgment. I'm pretty sure the one on the right is the throttle, but I forgot to label the pictures.
Click to expand...

The circular thing with the threaded hole in the centre is the inner weight and also the attachment point for the bar END weights, which hang off the end of the grips. Previously, I have I posted the pic of those bar end weights, which you will have to buy, plus their mounting screws, plus the OEM grips.

Does that clear this up for you, because I'm running out of ways to explain it?
 
If you go back and look at the bunch of pics that STing posted on page 2 of this thread, you will see the handlebars and can plainly see how the bar END weights sit past the end of the handlebar grip area. You obviously can't see the inner weights, concealed inside the bars, but those are what you are seeing inside the ends of your bars, now that you have removed the end caps from those grips you don't like.
 
Yes... thank you. I apologize for not picking up on it sooner, i just wanted to be 100% sure before I dropped an extra $50+ on weights/etc. I'm VERY grateful for all the advice and tips from the people on this forum, you guys have been great... truly a blessing. I'm sorry if I've been a hassle to deal with. I'm trying not to.
 
I'm still looking for what the maximum height is that I can get away with in rise while still keeping the stock handlebar cover and stock lines/hoses. From what I understand, the flip-clip option will work and allow me to keep the stock cover, should I just do that method and just keep adding washers or something until I get the max height that the cover will still fit over? Or is there a purchasable set of risers with a fixed height that definitively will work and let me keep the cover/lines. I'd really like to be in a more sitting position when I'm riding to/from work every day. I apologize for getting this off my original topic by throwing in the talk about the grips. You guys covered that thoroughly, but I'm still looking for info on the risers.

God bless.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom