Rear brake binding
- Thread starter ST1
- Start date
I am tracking this thread. I have an A6, and just ordered an OEM SMC PN 43290-MCS-G01. Did I order the correct part? Will it work on my A6? What's the difference? Thank you. /r Brad
I gave everything a good cleanI have removed the recently fitted bearings.
Took the bearing out of the freezer.
Installed the disc side first.
Using the bearing drift and small blows to keep the bearing alignment. Driven in to shoulder in the wheel.
Next is used one of the bearing drivers to support the inner race of the disc side bearing, just proud of the disc. Taping this into position and flipping the wheel over onto a solid piece of wood.The sleeve is then dropped in and and hub warmed up with the second bearing brought from the freezer. The sleeve is touching the two inner races.
The wheel is turned over again and the oil seal is attached and spacer.
The final drive flange is ready to be reattached. I have not changed these bearings I did notice a gap on the inner bearing spacer to the double wheel bearing.
Wheel installed onto bike giving one and a half turns with brake pistons pushed back and two full turns using my foot to turn in reverse.
The wheel does feel smoother, not sure about the flange bearings. Will continue rebuilding the front calipers.
Attachments
Last edited:
43290-MCS-G01 is the code for the rear caliper bracket.
I'll pinch @ST1's earlier picture
The SMC is part of the front left caliper bracket - which for the A6 is 06454-MCS-G03 (or G01 or G02)
The SMC - front left caliper bracket looks like this. The one on the left is for the 2008 and later models. The one on the right is the same as your A6 model.
Tell tale sign - note the hole just to the right of the rubber boot on the right photo. Note the longer bracket with the pin on the left hand (post 2008) model.
So what did you intend to order - the front bracket or the rear bracket.
If you intended to order the front bracket with the SMC. Oh dear. But the good news is that if your SMC is misbehaving, then there is a good chance that your rear bracket has been knocked out of line too. So I wouldn't send it back !!
Thank you for your reply. My bad, I guess I said "SMC" and meant rear bracket as that needs replacement. I have also replaced my "SMC" bracket. It sounds like I will be fine.43290-MCS-G01 is the code for the rear caliper bracket.
I'll pinch @ST1's earlier picture
The SMC is part of the front left caliper bracket - which for the A6 is 06454-MCS-G03 (or G01 or G02)
The SMC - front left caliper bracket looks like this. The one on the left is for the 2008 and later models. The one on the right is the same as your A6 model.
Tell tale sign - note the hole just to the right of the rubber boot on the right photo. Note the longer bracket with the pin on the left hand (post 2008) model.
So what did you intend to order - the front bracket or the rear bracket.
If you intended to order the front bracket with the SMC. Oh dear. But the good news is that if your SMC is misbehaving, then there is a good chance that your rear bracket has been knocked out of line too. So I wouldn't send it back !!
FYI; I am still sorting out my dragging front/rear brakes after an off the bike overhaul. I believe the manual states to use brake fluid when installing new piston seals, and silicone grease for the dust seals. I missed the silicone grease on the dust seals. After assembly, if installed properly, I believe the system brake fluid continues to lubricate the pistons seals, but not the dust seals. After installation, I believe the brake fluid from dust seal installation dissipates from the dust-seal-to-piston surfaces. I believe this can cause the pistons to stick, thus drag. This can result ultimately in wheel lockup. I removed the calipers, partially exposed the pistons with compressed air, and lubed the dust seals with silicone grease. I then pushed the pistons in and then out with compressed air a few times to distribute the silicone grease on the dust-seal-to-piston surfaces. In an attempt to further reduce any sticking pads, I have polished the pad-pins in an electric drill with 1500grit sandpaper. I widened the pad backer-plate pin holes to ensure no binding. I have also buffed all pad-tab, pin holes, and spring contact points with 1500 sandpaper as well. I fastened a .7mm gauge to a wooden dowel (well… chop stick) to allow me to check the clearance of the front calipers. Here’s some pix. 
This seems to have reduced the sticking and dragging. I believe I still have to eliminate those pesky micro-bubbles for a full cure. I look forward to reporting "All Clear!!!"
This seems to have reduced the sticking and dragging. I believe I still have to eliminate those pesky micro-bubbles for a full cure. I look forward to reporting "All Clear!!!"
Last edited:
Wrong, no silicone grease should be applied to dust seals, brake pins yes. see
Honda instructs you to use silicone grease on the dust seals, and dot 4 brake fluid on the other seals.
Like so many certified YouTube mechanics, anyone can make a video and often not follow correct procedures etc.
I didn’t care for all the digging around, and using that metal pick on the new seals and o rings.
A smooth chopstick would have been safer.
To me (just my opinion) he looks like an employee who was told to make a video, and knew a little bit about calipers, but could have done much better.
Their videos also show mounting tires with windex or dish soap, which can cause damage on aluminum rims over time, instead of proper tire paste.
Like so many certified YouTube mechanics, anyone can make a video and often not follow correct procedures etc.
I didn’t care for all the digging around, and using that metal pick on the new seals and o rings.
A smooth chopstick would have been safer.
To me (just my opinion) he looks like an employee who was told to make a video, and knew a little bit about calipers, but could have done much better.
Their videos also show mounting tires with windex or dish soap, which can cause damage on aluminum rims over time, instead of proper tire paste.
Last edited:
Finally!!! Back in service!!This is from the FSM;
I have unstraped the front and rear brake lever/ pedal.
The front brake pulls back to the handle bars.
The rear us firm.
There is one rotation of the front wheel without left hand caliper fitted.
I have checked the right front caliper for the correct clearance and is over0.7mm.
Will rebleed later today after help arrives.
The front brake pulls back to the handle bars.
The rear us firm.
There is one rotation of the front wheel without left hand caliper fitted.
I have checked the right front caliper for the correct clearance and is over0.7mm.
Will rebleed later today after help arrives.
I have completed another full brake bleed and the smc activates after a 1mm of travel then releases. The rear brake pedal is firm and rear wheel gives x 1 full turn after activating.
The left hand caliper is reattached and the brakes are dragging on front.
I have measured the caplper spacing fir the left hand caliper and it is tight.
The left hand caliper is reattached and the brakes are dragging on front.
I have measured the caplper spacing fir the left hand caliper and it is tight.
Now that’s funny 
Pictures were real blurry on my phone.
Pictures were real blurry on my phone.