Jump starting current is off the chart for SAE connectors.I stumbled across an SAE connector with rubber boot
could you use a lithium jump pack or still not able to handle the current ?Jump starting current is off the chart for SAE connectors.
Still a no-go. Starting current is starting current no matter its source.could you use a lithium jump pack or still not able to handle the current ?
I think I used the wrong terminology ! I mean't one of those lithium packs that charge the dead battery and you disconnect before starting. I call them jump packs !!Still a no-go. Starting current is starting current no matter its source.
Guess I have never seen one of those. My Antigravity battery says not to leave it connected. Attach - start - remove.I think I used the wrong terminology ! I mean't one of those lithium packs that charge the dead battery and you disconnect before starting. I call them jump packs !!
The R/C thing is why I didn't think they'd work well for jumpstarting a bike. Good to know about the ~120A rating. My SAE connectors have caps and they're available separately so I thought that would be true for EC5s.They are widely used in the remote control hobby. Those kinds of outlets might have a bulkhead / firewall type connector. I just leave a pigtail like you would do with an SAE.
That could be handy for heated gear and such. SAEs are rated at about 15A so too light for jumpstarting.I stumbled across an SAE connector with rubber boot
I haven't seen one of those either. I have a GoGoo (??) very similar to the post 37. It says to connect and start within 30s and disconnect. If the battery is in reasonably good shape and you just left the key on during a lunch stop (this happened to a "friend" once) maybe a 29s charge could wake the battery enough to start. But using a connector that could stand the jump to hyperspace would be a better option. Little to no waiting I'd assume.I mean't one of those lithium packs that charge the dead battery and you disconnect before starting. I call them jump packs !!
Good habit anyway. I routinely carry two rings, each with a bike key and a trunk key. I often want luggage access while warming up.If you have an OEM setup and have to remove the bag, seat, and side panel, make sure that you have 2 keys. One key will be in the ignition switch and stay there to keep the newly started engine running. The other key will be used to lock the left side bag onto the ST.
Always a good idea regardless of circumstance. DAMHIKT.STraymond said:make sure that you have 2 keys
Think you'll find that is not OEM for police models.my st1300 Police has an aux terminal battery + connector under the right saddlebag, so it just requires taking off the right bag for charging or jump starting. I didn't realize until this thread that this is not a factory feature, but probably installed during the conversion to the PA.
I would doubt even then, too much liability. Most likely installed by the owner after PD use.Probably why it was installed during the PA conversion.
Thanks! I was going to ask about that.this is the location on my st1300 PA, 2009.
Probably not but a nice touch.Think you'll find that is not OEM for police models.
Possibly. But Long Beach Honda installs/installed oversize batteries with required a lot more hands on and massaging. That mod would mean getting bike back in service a whole lot quicker than waiting for a tow (an expression) to take it to the corp yard to get to the battery. I don't know that most PDs or SOs would do that on the street. Even if they did it would take longer than what this mod would allow.T_C said:I would doubt even then, too much liability.