Cutting out again

no, if you remove the switch the bike will definitely stop running. whit i suggest is to create a jumper connection instead of the switch. possibly the kick stand switch or the tip over / bank angle switches are faulty. or have bad connections and are switching off your engine intermittently. just my two cents worth :biggrin:
 
I may have missed it, but have you checked your speed sensor switch?
Stumbling and cutting out, then recovering is what they do when the are going bad.
 
I may have missed it, but have you checked your speed sensor switch?
Stumbling and cutting out, then recovering is what they do when the are going bad.
Speed sensor switch... nope .. where is that located and will a meter check it..

Also back in 2012 me and a friend drove from Nova Scotia to California (21days 18000 km) I left him in Cedar City as he went to the Hayabusa rally in Reno and I drove down to San Diego then border of Mexico... I tapped my foot then drove up the #1 to San Fransico then met him in Reno... . In San Fransico I F#÷/ked up and rear-ended a CRV going 10km an hour.. Duck Tape and drive back to NS. $7900 damage to my 07.. Glad I had insurance. I still have the bank angle sensor. I will put the old one back in tomorrow also... .. Glad i have the time
 
Maybe your switches are worn and intermittently cutting the engine, can't remember if you said you cleaned them but maybe open them up to see if they look tight inside.
 
I did some reading about the Speed Sensor. My speedometer never went bad, wrong readings
They don’t always turn the lights off and dip the speedo when they start to fail.
They don’t throw codes either.
They just vaguely feel like they cut out or miss for a brief moment etc.
Worth checking.
 
They don’t always turn the lights off and dip the speedo when they start to fail.
They don’t throw codes either.
They just vaguely feel like they cut out or miss for a brief moment etc.
Worth checking.
. I changed to my old Bank Angle Sensor hoping that was it but.. no. Today I went 75km before acting up.. crossed my fingers getting home. I drove with all the plastic off except for the headlights and turn signals. Idles perfect until abut 2500 and up, then the cutting out starts, just like I turned off the spark and fuel.. no back fire either
When I got home, in my driveway it still acted miserable. I took some measurements of my coil while it was acting bad.. later this evening I will take the same measurements while the engine is still cold..

Thanks for your reply Igofar
 
The fuel pump can act up too and cause intermittent issues like you are describing. Quite a few members here have had fuel pump issues on higher mileage ST's. Apparently you can use a Honda Accord pump as it is a much cheaper replacement.
 
The fuel pump can act up too and cause intermittent issues like you are describing. Quite a few members here have had fuel pump issues on higher mileage ST's. Apparently you can use a Honda Accord pump as it is a much cheaper replacement.
Been there.. 1st thing I bought from FortNine..
 
Man your ST is giving you a hard time. You're doing great at all your attempts to find the problem though, but you should be doing less wrenching and more riding.
Have you considered or already tried replacing the ECM to see if the inconsistencies continue? Not sure what else it could be.
Good luck from NB
 
Man your ST is giving you a hard time. You're doing great at all your attempts to find the problem though, but you should be doing less wrenching and more riding.
Have you considered or already tried replacing the ECM to see if the inconsistencies continue? Not sure what else it could be.
Good luck from NB
Last fall I done some searching for an ECM..I'm gonna start search again. Hopefully someone will wreck their ST
 
I have a spare ECM I could ship you, just ask that you pay the shipping. I was getting FI 25 or 26, I forget which now (Dreaded knock sensor false error). Bit the bullet, and bought a new ECM. Was not having any other issues.
 
I have a spare ECM I could ship you, just ask that you pay the shipping. I was getting FI 25 or 26, I forget which now (Dreaded knock sensor false error). Bit the bullet, and bought a new ECM. Was not having any other issues.
New ECM can be bought? Thanks for the offer. I'm pretty sure my Honda dealer will get my bike for testing.. very soon
 
New ECM can be bought? Thanks for the offer. I'm pretty sure my Honda dealer will get my bike for testing.. very soon
Not any longer, about 2 weeks after I bought mine they went unobtanium. Glad I bought when I did!
 
I have a spare ECM I could ship you, just ask that you pay the shipping. I was getting FI 25 or 26, I forget which now (Dreaded knock sensor false error). Bit the bullet, and bought a new ECM. Was not having any other issues.
So providing him with a damaged ECM would help him how? :rofl1:
 
So providing him with a damaged ECM would help him how? :rofl1:
The only issue mine had was the phantom knock sensor code. I figure if it rids him of the other issue, at least he knows he needs a new ECM.

Postage for testing with an "experienced" ECM VS $800+ US for a new ECM - If you can locate one...
 
New ECM can be bought? Thanks for the offer. I'm pretty sure my Honda dealer will get my bike for testing.. very soon

Taking the "trial" ECM from Josh would be a much, much less financial undertaking than dropping your bike off to your local dealership.
That would be a good way to rule out the ECM as the potential culprit.
Good luck.....
 
An ECU that is throwing those codes means the circuit board is breaking up and it usually throws the knock sensor codes etc.
The OP’s ECU may be at the threshold of the same damage, but has not yet started throwing codes etc.
I don’t agree that trying to trouble shoot a possible ECU issue with a known damaged one would solve anything.
Swapping out a known good one (loaner) would be a much better idea.
And much better than throwing parts at the issues or letting the dealership play “let’s try this” etc.
 
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