Portable m/c jump starters

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Conductor ampacity is based on avoiding insulation damage. Different insulation types have different temperature limitations. That's why there are multiple current ratings for a given gauge.

A starter motor requires much more than 40 amps, but normally for a much shorter duration, while house wiring is rated as it is for continuous loading. Continuous cranking will melt #10 wire.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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I'm confused, sorry.
The wire/cable is part of the equation. Your chart doesn't mention cable lengths. The longer the cable the greater the resistance. The more resistance the less current a given size can handle.

The connectors connected to the wire/cable are a different part. The connector has to handle the same current (at least)as the wire or there may be some risk involved. So can that SAE connector handle 700A? Just a guess on my part but I think not. But maybe it can short term. If it can't it would limit the current from the jump starter. Would it be enough? Maybe?
 

Tor

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Have carried an Antigravity for years. Have used it on my bikes, as well as my truck. Works great.
 

ST Gui

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The Scosche website offered a 25% discount coupon. Their price is $160 and the adapter kit is $25. So about $139 from them. The 300A version for $120 + quick connect kit for $25 would be cheaper. The power bank portion would also have less capacity. It's supposed to be able to start a 6-cyl car so a bike should be a problem.

There are a ton of these jump starters available and some of them are the same product with different branding. As Cruisman points out the Scosche line seems to be the only one with a quick connect/disconnect option. That's pretty handy given removing the seat and plastic and wedging the giant battery clamps on to small terminals.

These to require charging on a regular basis. I just check my three starters and one was down to 1 out of 4 bars and the other two 2 out of 4 bars after over six months of lying dormant. So I'll charge them every 6 months and see how that goes. Letting them run way down regularly shortens the life span.

OR – I could cut the battery clamps of the supplied cables of my jumpstarter and make my own battery pigtail with suitable connectors.
 

Willsmotorcycle

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Are you sure?? Like I said 1 post above, you connect the main plug (red/black lead) to your battery which would plug into the PBJ700 if you needed a jump. The quick connector kit also comes with the SAE adapter that you connect to the main plug and the end coming from the tender. Am I seeing this the wrong way?
No. The jumpstarter in question is rated at 700A. SAE connectors tend to top out at 15A. Now maybe there's a heavy duty higher rated SAE 2.0 version but I haven't heard of one.
Yes, I'm sure.

The difference between 700A and 15A is significant, melted wires, maybe fire significant. If you plan on jumping someone else's bike, have them pull the side cover and expose the battery, then use the jumper cables.

A trickle charge is low amps, when you put on a battery tender, 12v, 2 amps. My jumper is 12v, 1000 amps. You're gonna need a bigger wire.
 

Ryan_B

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Yes, I'm sure.

The difference between 700A and 15A is significant, melted wires, maybe fire significant. If you plan on jumping someone else's bike, have them pull the side cover and expose the battery, then use the jumper cables.

A trickle charge is low amps, when you put on a battery tender, 12v, 2 amps. My jumper is 12v, 1000 amps. You're gonna need a bigger wire.
This is all true! ;-)

I knew this, and wouldn't attempt it for jumper cables, but for some reason my brain blanked when I had an extra battery that I wanted to connect in and just decided to temporarily jumper it using the SAE connector that I trickle charge through. It instantly popped the fuse (I think it was a 15amp).

Thicker cables are needed, or you can get creative and relocate cables/terminals kind of similar to most newer cars now which have a positive terminal under the hood, but the battery is elsewhere.

Ryan
 

ST Gui

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Yes, I'm sure.
Then you're also confused. The quick connect leads (high capacity cables) from the battery are more than up to the challenge of starting the bike (or car) with the jumpstarter. When needed the SAE tender adapter (low capacity cables) then attach to the already installed quick connect leads (high capacity cable) for low current charging.

The small charging current flows through the SAE adapter then to the quick connect/disconnect cables to the battery.

When charging is done or when getting underway the SAE connector is removed and stowed leaving the "permanently" high capacity cables in place. The SAE adapter never sees 700A. You can't connect the jumpstarter to the SAE connector. It must be removed first.

I've started my car twice with a jump starter by the book:

pop the hood
connect the jump starter and turn it on
start the car
removed the jumpstarter and close the hood.

The cables didn't even get warm.
 

ST Gui

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This is all true! ;-)
Well not all true. True if talking about using SAE wire to jumpstart a bike or car. Which skipcurt is not doing. Watch the video a few times and rewind as necessary. Apples and oranges.
 

Ryan_B

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Well not all true. True if talking about using SAE wire to jumpstart a bike or car. Which skipcurt is not doing. Watch the video a few times and rewind as necessary. Apples and oranges.
Ah, my apologies - I was referring to the wimpy battery tender connection, this is different. Sorry all to add confusion!

Ryan
 
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I stand by what I said earlier, 10 AWG wire will probably work for jump starting an ST. Yes it is usually rated at 30 amps, but as I mentioned using a short piece under 2' with care for jump starting should be fine. How long do you usually crank your bike? My ST always started right up - cranking for fewer than 5 seconds. My Suzi seems to start almost with the first rev of the crank (same with our Honda and Toyota cars). Pulling 90 amps or so through a piece of 10 wire for 10 seconds will be ok. Would I use #10 wire to jump my bike? No. If I had nothing else at hand, would I? Yes. The SAE connector for sure will not handle starting current, so that accesory should be used for its intended purpose.

When I made those pigtails (essentially what Scosche is selling without their adapter) I used welding cable. This is made up of very fine wires and has a lower resistance than solid wire or regular stranded wire. It is also very flexible. Look at the woven ground strap on your car - there are solid reasons why manufacturers used this material instead of a cable. My #6 wires should hold up for as long as I want to crank the engine. Note that doing that for more than 30 or 60 seconds may damage (overheat) your starter motor.

There are a lot of jump starters on the market. I have not tested nor even compared any of them to one another. However, some testing organizations HAVE done this, and it sounds like there are small differences between them. I suggest anyone read Consumer Reports article and the Wirecutter's reccomendations. The latter pointed out something I thought was a problem with the CR findings, and I went with their suggested jump starter.

Permanent connection to the battery? In my experience, these dodads are not where you want them when you need them. I plan to carry the jump starter in my bike OR my car for trips. For the few times I've jumped a car or bike in my lifetime, I'll connect the alligator clips (which is why I thought the Wirecutter had a convincing argument).
 

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Quite happy with my GB20


Plus: fully compatible with the BMS of their NLP LiFePO4 batteries (boost eyelet cable avail as accessory)
 

mello dude

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I'm a fan of Project Farm (YT)) and from the tests, Gooloo4000 was a good unit. I bought one from Amazon mostly for use on my 2nd car I might drive every 10 days or so.
It jumps the car instantanaously like there is no tomorrow, its a powerhouse unit.

--- Wonder if its too much to use on a bike?
 

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Anyone know if they can be used with SAE connectors?
Seems like many folks have this lead hanging from their bike so it would make sense to use versus having to take a cover off,
You can't connect the jumpstarter to the SAE connector.
Then you're also confused.
Why wife tells me this often... I was using your 700a quote for a bench mark, sorry I involved you. It does seem OP had a thought and it would probably end badly. Using the SAE battery tender connection on my bike with a 700a jump will certainly end badly. I'm not confused or incorrect. I am smiling while I type this, I'm not confrontational.
 
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It jumps the car instantanaously like there is no tomorrow, its a powerhouse unit.

--- Wonder if its too much to use on a bike?
Besides faster starting means less starter-motor heating, it's unlikely for two reasons:

A load of the rated voltage only draws the current it needs. Jumper cables don't "push" current into loads.

A motor, which tends to be a constant-power load, draws less current with more voltage (within its range).
 
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Just for giggles, I looked at @Larry Fine's link and then all the questions asked by folks who had or were buying the Scosche jump starters. One fella asked the question I was going to ask. Here is the Q and A. Note the answer came from Scosche, the seller.


What is the gauge of the wires that connect to the battery?

Answer:

The wires are 12GA. If you need further assistance, please contact Scosche Tech Support Team at 800-363-4490 Ext. 3.

Scosche Industries
Seller · January 14, 2023

I would suggest not cranking your engine for a minute or two.
 
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ST Gui

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The cable plug is the same standard one that my Type S jump-starter from Costco uses.
Maybe I will track down the male half of the battery quick connect kit and replace the battery clamps with it. It'll make a more compact package as well.
 

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I have a NOCO GB40. The cable and connector would be great for jump starting the bike. My only question is, do they have an adapter that would allow me to connect my Slime PowerSport compressor to it?
 
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