St1100 Full Restoration Rebuild

When you press the starter does the clock go out until you release the starter? If so more than likely you have an issue at the main relay. ( Red wire connector to the main relay). Check to see if that connector is melted. If it is splice a new section to the red wire and put a female spade connector on it. You can connect the wires back to the main relay without the connector just make sure you put the proper wires to the right terminals.
 
Ditto for the clock I'm afraid.

The bike didn't come with one but have acquired one from another source. It is untested though.

Will plug both the clock and headlamp in tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks for the tips.
 
Hello all,

Working headlamp bulbs fitted. LCD clock connected including the ground but still in the dark, literally.

There is no spark or sizzle either when both battery terminals are connected to their corresponding leads.

Think I can hear a quiet click from the front of the bike somewhere though when touch the positive lead to the battery's positive terminal.

So still nothing power wise up front. No time on the LCD clock. No back-light to speedo-tacho. No starter noise. No low beam or high beam.

Do I need a new relay?
 
If it were me, I would utilize a multi meter and test light and acquire a wiring diagram. First I would check the battery again and confirm what the voltage is across the two terminals. With the key on I would check if I was getting voltage at each fuse in the fuse block. There is a ground to the engine, there is also another ground in the wiring harness. That harness ground could be attached to the folding grab handle or to the bolt that holds the pannier rail on the left side. Confirm that those grounds are indeed making good connection.
confirm there is voltage at the red wire to the main relay.
sorry to say it’s trial and error
 
Umm, auto electrics are one of my least favourite and knowledgeable topics. I was hoping for a project free of electrical gremlins but no such luck.

Guess it's time to watch a few videos and get stuck in.

Thanks to Kiltman for the detailed instructions. I really appreciate it. The folding grab handle isn't with the bike so that must at least part of the problem as the harnless ground won't be secured.

Will start with that and go from there.

Will update when I know more.
 
Phil1164 said:
the harnless ground won't be secured.
Click to expand...
That was the location on my 97 ABSII, on my friends 98 it was at the left pannier rail. Troubleshooting motorcycle electrics can be a challenge, a test light can help you eliminate some problem circuits. With the alligator clip (that comes with most test lights) connected to ground, and the tip of the light touching the hot wires you can eliminate the good circuits fast and easy. Test the light on the battery first, double, triple check that you have properly secured the leads to the battery and that you have done it to the correct polarity. Make sure the kill switch is on. The most common problem area is the main relay, the next problem area is in the starter switch assembly at the handlebars. Do a search for each on the forum to guide you in troubleshooting those components.
 
Thanks very much Kiltman.

Will do all of the above.

Not sure if the pannier brackets are still attached. I won't be surprised if they're missing too. Lol That and the lift handle definitely being MIA certainly would explain the complete blackout.

Have got a test light so will start with the battery, engine and wiring harness grounds and fuses.

Fingers crossed I may be lucky and its just a matter of bolting the ground to a shiny bit of bare frame.
 
I've added ground leads for several circuits on STerling. Gang ground point at front-left subframe bolt. Long ground leads can cause similar problems as long positive leads.
 
kiltman said:
That was the location on my 97 ABSII, on my friends 98 it was at the left pannier rail.
Click to expand...
that may be a difference between ABS and non-ABS, because on my '97 non-ABS it seems like your friend's '98. Here's a picture of the connection and the wire-end that attaches to it.

IMG_3346_opt1.jpg
 
George said:
I've added ground leads for several circuits on STerling. Gang ground point at front-left subframe bolt. Long ground leads can cause similar problems as long positive leads.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry George but I don't understand any of this?
 
dwalby said:
that may be a difference between ABS and non-ABS, because on my '97 non-ABS it seems like your friend's '98. Here's a picture of the connection and the wire-end that attaches to it.

IMG_3346_opt1.jpg
Click to expand...
Hi Dwalby,

Thanks very much for the photo. It does help as the bike is in a garage without electricity and lighting, so am literally fumbling in the dark, as it were. Lol

The lift handle and plastic panel are definitely not present, let alone affixed to the bike. Have a feeling that the ground bolt will be AWOL too.

Having just read an article on wiring problems the original poster ended up putting the battery in backwards.

Thought that this was physically impossible but will have to check mine for the same when I get home, just in case.
 
Well the good news is the battery is in the correct way and in good charged condition.

The pannier mounting rails are nowhere to be seen. I'm not surprised in the slightest. The ground cable in the region of the lift handle wasn't attached and there was white corrosion on it and rust on the corresponding bolt hole on the frame itself. Both have been cleaned and its now bolted firmly in place.20220309_162838.jpg
 

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Phil1164 said:
Does anyone have any colour suggestions for the respray? Should I stick with a traditional colour or go crazy with Ninja green, etc?
Click to expand...

You mentioned earlier that if you could finish it in time, your father might recognize it. That's a great goal. I suggest the color might best be . . . the one your father's bike had.

I've been through the experience of caring for a parent with dementia and his recognition of the bike from his past is a real possibility if the timing works out. Good luck!

Shuey
 
Unfortunately this has had no visible impact upon the power supply issue. Still no sign of juice anywhere.

I've not got stuck in with the lightsaber as yet due to time but noticed that power supply to the solenoid (I think?) had its rubber boot pulled away so its been looked at recently. Please see far left centre of first picture.

I pulled out the green blade fuse and it came apart. Please see second picture.

As always, any advice is appreciated.Screenshot_20220309-173239_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20220309-173239_Gallery.jpg20220309_171153.jpg
 
kiltman said:
You say the rubber boot is off the main relay and its been looked at recently…..by you? The 30amp fuse has seen better days.
Click to expand...
Not by me.

Is that the main relay? I thought it was the solenoid for the starter.

Does anyone recognise the wire in this picture. Not sure where it belongs?

Screenshot_20220309-173239_Gallery.jpg
 
Sorry, wrong pic...

Correct picture below.

It connects into the white 2 pin plug in the picture. 20220309_163943.jpg
 
Houston, we have a problem!

Definitely found the problem or at least part of it.

There is no fusible link to the left of the battery. Well, I'm being my polite Canadian self when I say that. The truth being that there is no damn fuse board or its wiring either. It's completely stripped from the bike.
 
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