Cutting out again

Contact Honda to ask about the ECM.
Maybe because they changed the ECM in 08 I believe , yours may be starting to fail? Strange symptoms....
Good luck....
 
I done a full recheck of the gas/air lines. All looks perfect. Took the gas tank off when doing it. I removed my yellow vacuum line and put the original ones back on. I redone the trottle body syn, all was good. .. small 19km drive then home. This weekend is calling for 20c, so big ride then
 
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Try listening for an air rush as you open the gas cap after riding for a while. If a vacuum is building up in the tank it could take a while before it caused a problem.
 
woodybelle said:
Try listening for an air rush as you open the gas cap after riding for a while. If a vacuum is building up in the tank it could take a while before it caused a problem.
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Someone else mentioned that. 19km isnt far enough but this weekend i will ride for an hour or 2, then stop and turn off the bike, open and listen.
I now drive now with my spare key in the gas tank waiting for*&&<_=$. I'll pull over turn the bike off then the open the cover..

Thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
 
woodybelle said:
Try listening for an air rush as you open the gas cap after riding for a while. If a vacuum is building up in the tank it could take a while before it caused a problem.
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Temp was 18 to 23c today
Another drive today. 1 key in ignition and the spare in the fuel cap. 1st 65km was great then it started I kept going and reached down and opened the gas cap it seamed to ease the problem some. Kept going and locked the cap... @ 115km it acted up again... mmm almost double from 65.. opened the cap and kept it open for 5km which made to difference. I relocked the gas cap.. after another 4km it settled down.. at 170km acted bad. Pull clutch in and coasted and slowly opened the throttle to 6k. I held it there and it bounced back and forth from 4k to 6k... drove with the problem ~85km. Got home kept it idling and pulled the plug wires 1 at a time then back on until all four was checked. All 4 made a big difference when i removed them.. so they are all firing.

I never get a FI fault code. Is there a way of checking stored codes?

Tomorrow I'm call the Stealership about checking my ECM.

Could a have a bad fuel pressure regulator, what is that symptom?

Picture of the lighthouse at Peggy's Cove20221106_130603.jpg
 
I have a ECM I can ship you, it ran fine except for the dreaded 25/26 code. Hold it a 4k+ for 10 seconds and on comes the FI light. I just can't remember which it had.

It came from a 03 ST1300A.
 
its always the same right ? Even after the new pump the issue feels exactly the same ?
a pressure regulator can cause that BUT don't forget the rest of primary fuel system. Vacuum to regulator. Rail return line . pressure line to rail. pump pick up tube , tank to tank venting, tank to atmosphere venting, pump wiring including any relays.
there is a blink code procedure in the manual but its a pretty archaic system ... definitely no PIDs here :confused:
 
thekaz said:
there is a blink code procedure in the manual but its a pretty archaic system ... definitely no PIDs here
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Sorry, help some of us along by what you mean.:shrug1:
What is PID?
proportional–integral–derivative controller is a control loop mechanism employing feedback that is widely used in industrial control systems.
OR
What is PID?
Pelvic inflammatory disease is an infection of a woman's reproductive organs. It is a complication often caused by some STDs, like chlamydia and gonorrhea. Other infections that are not sexually transmitted can also cause PID.
 
1st off thanks for all the comments. I tried to recover codes by starting bike, hold above 4k for 15 sec.. no codes

Ok.. 7 hrs so far.. rainy day here

So I did find 2 electrical things not correct

The IAT sensor has good 2.63 ohms tol 1-4
The electrical wire volts is bad
reading 4.95 v Tol 4.75 - 5.25V
replace ECM see picture


The PAIR SOLENOID VALVE
The manual says air should not flow from A Through B unless 12v is applied. I can blow air through A and it comes out of both B's. The ohms is 21 ohms..

Am I reading that right.... no air should pass from A though B when not connected to 12v..

And
Do I need a ECM with the voltage reading of 4.95v if the voltage is between 4.75 and 5.25v.
See attached.

And they say motorcycling is fun... it is
 

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I should also add. I called my local Honda dealer and they said they would follow the procedure, not just check the ECM.
I did call a bigger dealership in Dartmouth and they said the same thing
 
Your 4.95V looks good, no reason to condemn or suspect the ECM. The PAIR valve wording is confusing, maybe if you apply 12v you will not be able to blow from A to B, not sure there but I doubt that this will cause your issue. I am thinking like thekaz in post 67 that the fuel delivery system is suspect.
 
Wow you're not having any luck yet figuring out this issue!
Good idea to let Honda have a quick peek but not too long I hope, they are expensive.
The only engine cutting out comparison I can relate to with my bike is what I experienced a few months ago. I had done a throttle body sync ,put it all back together and tried to start the bike. The idle was real irratic and when I held the throttle on steady ,the rpm would bounce up and down real bad. I had a code though. It turned out one of my vacuum hoses on the T had fallen off where it attaches to the intake after I finished working in that area. Couldn't believe how bad the engine worked with just that one hose off. Hopefully it's a simple quick fix for you!
 
Kevcules said:
Wow you're not having any luck yet figuring out this issue!
Good idea to let Honda have a quick peek but not too long I hope, they are expensive.
The only engine cutting out comparison I can relate to with my bike is what I experienced a few months ago. I had done a throttle body sync ,put it all back together and tried to start the bike. The idle was real irratic and when I held the throttle on steady ,the rpm would bounce up and down real bad. I had a code though. It turned out one of my vacuum hoses on the T had fallen off where it attaches to the intake after I finished working in that area. Couldn't believe how bad the engine worked with just that one hose off. Hopefully it's a simple quick fix for you!
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I put the old vacuum lines back on idles perfect, I can Rev it with no problem. Right now I can hold it at any RPM with no cut out. But it will time to time on the road. Sunday it worked horrible from Halifax to hone about 85km . These are the plugs from yesterday
20221107_115423.jpg

Thanks for your comment. Winter is almost here so it may sit til spring
 
thekaz said:
its always the same right ? Even after the new pump the issue feels exactly the same ?
a pressure regulator can cause that BUT don't forget the rest of primary fuel system. Vacuum to regulator. Rail return line . pressure line to rail. pump pick up tube , tank to tank venting, tank to atmosphere venting, pump wiring including any relays.
there is a blink code procedure in the manual but its a pretty archaic system ... definitely no PIDs here :confused:
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply..

Yesterday/today I done another one over.
The PAIR solenoid valve worked just the opposite of what the manual said. I connected 12v to it and I heard the click. Couldn't air in A to B.

I did check the vacuum line connected to the pressure regulator. I took it off and checked for cracks and plugged. I had to remove #4 injector connector to remove the line there, but the #2 injector was not in my way. No dirt or debris. Return line from fuel rail is not plugged or crushed. I checked the pickup tube when I replaced the pump. Tank to tank vent hose is not plugged or crushed. The relay was an easy to check. The manual should how to connect 12v and check continuity. The wiring all looks good.. .
I removed the Evap canister and done other recheck of the inlet of each hose connection. Air in air out . Rechecked the lines leading to the bottom by oil filter. ....
I put it back together and went for 5km drive as it 6c here today with lots of wind. Tomorrow will be a longer drive . I hope to go atlease 100km. Gonna be 7c..

Again thanks for your help...
 
check the voltage drop of the relay cold then hot. poor/dirty contacts can cause voltage issues which in turn will cause pump issues. or just switch it with a spare......and really if you think you have all the basics of the fuel system go after a possible spark issue.....and dam it would be nice if there was a way to get a kv graph ??
 
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