Cutting out again

New fuel regulator, new # 4 spark plug cap and wire installed today. Fired up no problem. Re-syn throttle body. Waiting for new headlight socket.



Bring on spring . Still have plenty of salt down...
 
To me... seems like the fuel pump isn't providing enough fuel when in higher revs... I don't know if you've already addressed that in this thread.

ah.. I see you did in Nov 22....hmmmm
 
My only other guess would be the coils but looks like you checked them... I'm bad when it comes to the electrical components so I don't know the acceptable ranges for those... seems like you've sure looked at everything... I would even try pulling one plug wire and running 3 cylinders to see if it has the same inconsistent behavior when reving to see if that would isolate a cylinder or side of the bike.
 
Done more checks
Started bike and @idol I pulled each plug cap 1 at a time and the bike acted the same, missed when pulled. See #2 and 3

#1, missed no sparks seen or felt on hand while pulling it out of the hole

#2, missed no spark felt on hand but I seen lots of spark from the bottom of the cap when I got near the top of the hole..

#3, missed spark felt on hand while pulling it out. No spark seen at the end of cap. I found 2 cracks on the cap cover.. see attached

#4, sane as #1.. looked normal.

My question is , Should I see sparks at the end of the cap while pulling it out. And cracked rubber is probably no good.. I ordered 2 new caps.. 47 plus tax
20230411_162118.jpg20230411_162059.jpg
 
I changed my spark plugs on a goldwing once and didn't know one broke... the bike rode normally until I tried to pass and then it was like I hit a rev limiter... then it was back to normal... but since the last thing I did was the plugs I knew it had to be something with that... cracked caps might be loosing spark sometimes so it's a good thing to replace.
 
Not sure if you could play around w/electrical tape and see if that confirms the issue. But, they should be replaced regardless.
 
A good test for cracked caps is to run the bike at night and lightly spray some water on them. If you see sparks, then that cap is compromised. Since you found a few cracks, I would change them all.
When I watched your fuel bars and heat bars on your dash, it seemed like they were flashing quickly. Maybe that's just the camera resolution?
Does the problem ever happen when you first start the engine or only at operating temperature? Electrical components don't like heat and thats when they are inconsistent in my experience.
Too bad you couldn't find a used ECM and rule that out. Cracked plug caps may very well be your issue. Change them all!
Good luck
 
Rob20111 said:
Mine stumbled too but only at 2-4000 rpm, and much worse in hot summer weather.
I replaced the pump, filter and strainer.
As the bike had sat a lot before I purchased it (10k km in 17 years) I wanted to rule out pump or filter damage from old fuel.
Later I also found small splits in two of the spark plug boots. Replaced all 4.

When purchased last year I immediately did the following.

Oil/filter
Air filter
Spark plugs
Starter valve sync
5 way T and new hoses
Thermostat and coolant (stuck open)
Brake and clutch fluid

Running good now.

Start by checking the simple easier things first before you buy a pump and filter.
Pay attention to ignition components, inspect visually and carefully for damage, test with an ohm meter, caps should be 5k ohms.
I also found corrosion on my right side coil where they mount to the frame, which I cleaned up.
If you need a pump I recommend the All Balls pump from FortNine.
Filter from Honda.
Click to expand...

Rob I went back over all the comments . I seen 1 of your caps looks exactly like mine (comment 14) cracked on top.. I ordered 2 today I already replaced 1 last fall which makes 3, tomorrow I will order 1 more to make 4 new caps... some glad I'm doing my own work.
 
gsforster said:
I have been reading your thread from post 1, and am wondering about possibility of and input intermittent when hot ie: crank sensor or cam sensor. I think the ecm on these is pretty archaic compared to todays bikes/cars, and it could be that a sensor is going slightly flakey when warm but the ecm does not have the ability to flag it and code for it.... just a thought.
Also just because a part (aftermarket fuel pump) is new does not mean its good. Really got to try getting a fuel pressure gauge on the line and ride it till it acts up. This really sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.
Click to expand...
I'm rereading all of my post and I missed this one goforster

Where can I find and test the cam/crank sensor
 
Tdinova said:
I'm rereading all of my post and I missed this one goforster

Where can I find and test the cam/crank sensor
Click to expand...
cam sensor is located near the front of the right cylinder head and reads signals from the intake cam. crank sensor is located on the front of the engine just above the clutch. both sensors are 2 wire, so they should be ac inductance type. looks like the yellow wire on the crank sensor and the yellow/white on the cam sensor. You could backprobe the connectors right at the sensors carefully and scope the signals. You will have to experiment with the time/division to get good patterns. If a signal drops out, you will see it if your scope settings are right.
 
gsforster said:
cam sensor is located near the front of the right cylinder head and reads signals from the intake cam. crank sensor is located on the front of the engine just above the clutch. both sensors are 2 wire, so they should be ac inductance type. looks like the yellow wire on the crank sensor and the yellow/white on the cam sensor. You could backprobe the connectors right at the sensors carefully and scope the signals. You will have to experiment with the time/division to get good patterns. If a signal drops out, you will see it if your scope settings are right.
Click to expand...
Thats for the reply... so an ohm meter will not pick a bad reading?
 
Tdinova said:
Thats for the reply... so an ohm meter will not pick a bad reading?
Click to expand...
I must admit I don't have the service manual in front of me, but I think it tells about using an ohm meter to check the sensors, and that test would be valid and conclusive if was acting up at that moment. A scope would allow signals to be graphed over time and can uncover intermittents due to heat etc. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose but when you find the "smoking gun" it is the most satisfying feeling ever. Obviously some automotive lab scopes are better than others and very costly, and maybe one can be borrowed from a tech. I see above you have some issues with secondary ignition leads/caps, and that you have ordered new ones. that is a good place to start also due to the cracking and age. Could be just that simple and it is easy. Those are wear items anyway and should be addressed before further tests.
 
I would have thought a sparkplug misfire would have been accompanied by a few backfires in the exhaust - at least it would be with carbs........
 
With the air box off look for the blue connector behind number #3 cylinder throttle body.

Attached is a quote from another member re testing.
 

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