Cutting out again

regarding your sensor voltage.
The ECM will do its best to keep the voltages going to sensors regardless of what the battery/alternator are doing. The manual says between 4.75v and 5.25V so your 4.95v is prefectly in the average.
the pair system on this bike is irrelevant unless there is a reed valve leak or something. technically you could perform the delete procedure "for testing purposes only" ;)
 
I have been reading your thread from post 1, and am wondering about possibility of and input intermittent when hot ie: crank sensor or cam sensor. I think the ecm on these is pretty archaic compared to todays bikes/cars, and it could be that a sensor is going slightly flakey when warm but the ecm does not have the ability to flag it and code for it.... just a thought.
Also just because a part (aftermarket fuel pump) is new does not mean its good. Really got to try getting a fuel pressure gauge on the line and ride it till it acts up. This really sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.
 
Just a thought;
Have you ever noticed your speedometer needle fluctuating?
An intermittent signal from a speed sensor that is just beginning to fail causes strange symptoms, but it often does not set a code until it becomes more than intermittent.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Just a thought;
Have you ever noticed your speedometer needle fluctuating?
An intermittent signal from a speed sensor that is just beginning to fail causes strange symptoms, but it often does not set a code until it becomes more than intermittent.
Click to expand...
Nope when it happens the speed needle stays constant. Lights stay on. It starts with a small hiccup then gradually reaches the big stumple. If I ease off the throttle it claims down, sometimes 4k is it when I going easy. If I open the throttle the rpm reaches 6k then bounce from 6k to 4k then 6k then 4k. . There is no back fire

Thank you for your comment
 
way over my head but maybe rpm limiter. Is this a separate sensor or part of the ecu? Does it do the same when in 3rd or 4th gear? Just re-read
post from @Andrew Shadow. sorry for the redundancy!
 
diferg said:
way over my head but maybe rpm limiter. Is this a separate sensor or part of the ecu? Does it do the same when in 3rd or 4th gear? Just re-read
post from @Andrew Shadow. sorry for the redundancy!
Click to expand...
Thanks for your comment.. it happens in all gears. My relay did not cone in yesterday. So OlSilver will sit all weekend
 
A lot of the nicer fuel injection pressure test kits will have an adapter fitting for banjo style fittings as used on the ST. They can be expensive and can be bought on amazon for a cheapo set, or if you ask really nice an auto mechanic may lend a fitting. Especially if you know one that rides lol. As an auto tech I usually dont lend out tools but I have when I know/feel the person is genuine YMMV. We really need to know what that fuel pressure is doing when the engine acts up so we have a diagnostic direction to go from.
Another option is to find a used fuel line and hack it up to put a tee in for a gauge.....
 
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Ok.. sitting here waiting for my fuel relay to come in. Should be here Mon Nov 14th. Took the plastic back off again to measure the ohms of the coil. The service manual has very little info on the coils, spark- your good, measure peak voltage 100v minimum. I have no adapter to measure it. Internet was helpful on what to measure on old bikes, nothing on the ST. So I duplicated their measurements. Both coils measure the same. I removed both coils
Coil 1-3
Primary Winding
Test 1 electrical connections 3.2 ohms
Secondary Winding
Test 2 meter leads in both sparkplug wires connected to coil 32.2 k ohms

Removed plug wires from coil 1-3
measured ohms of wire and caps

Removed plug wires from coil
measured ohms of wire and caps
Test 3 wire + cap # 1 5.4k ohms
Test 4 wire + cap # 3 5.5k ohms

Coil 2-4
Primary Winding
Test 5 electrical connections 2.9 ohms
Secondary Winding
Test 6 meter leads in both sparkplug wires connected to coil 32.2 5 k

Removed plug wires from coil 2-4
measured ohms of wire and caps

Removed plug wires from coil
measured ohms of wire and caps
Test 7 wire + cap # 2 5.25k ohms
Test 8 wire + cap # 4 5.5k ohms

20221113_143322.jpg
 
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Relay arrived , fired up.. one problem... +4c raining and snowing. It's calling for 5c and sunny tomorrow.. biking tomorrow
20221114_150441.jpg
 
On Tuesday Nov 15 +4c I drove 90 km then today Nov 17th another 90 km in steaming +6c another 90km .. looks promising but not convinced. Saturday will be my annual Christmas tree pictures, then oil-filter change. ..
 
Just throwing an idea out there.

I know the knock sensor is normally the dreaded "code 26" when it is grounded out, but what is correct function if it does detect a knock? On a car, it adjusts a timing to try and protect the engine, I believe it retards the timing which reduces power/runs hot, etc.. Could you have an intermittent bad knock sensor and your ECU is trying to adjust? Just a thought that may have already been ruled out.

I would guess this is a sensor or wiring issue though. Every single time I have had an intermittent issue that presented with heat or water (rain) it was a bad sensor or connector. I had a Ford Expedition I got cheap from a dealership that would miss every so often (most noticeable on the highway). It did not have any stored or pending codes. I basically ran a garden hose on the engine/electronics until the miss became constant, which forced it to log a code. It turned out to be a cracked ignition coil that would function fine until hot.

Good luck!
Ryan
 
Ryan_B said:
Just throwing an idea out there.

I know the knock sensor is normally the dreaded "code 26" when it is grounded out, but what is correct function if it does detect a knock? On a car, it adjusts a timing to try and protect the engine, I believe it retards the timing which reduces power/runs hot, etc.. Could you have an intermittent bad knock sensor and your ECU is trying to adjust? Just a thought that may have already been ruled out.

I would guess this is a sensor or wiring issue though. Every single time I have had an intermittent issue that presented with heat or water (rain) it was a bad sensor or connector. I had a Ford Expedition I got cheap from a dealership that would miss every so often (most noticeable on the highway). It did not have any stored or pending codes. I basically ran a garden hose on the engine/electronics until the miss became constant, which forced it to log a code. It turned out to be a cracked ignition coil that would function fine until hot.

Good luck!
Ryan
Click to expand...

YUP, ignition coils are certainly one electrical component that have a known temperature-dependent failure mode and oddly, they work better when cold <usually :rolleyes: >.
 
Ryan_B said:
Just throwing an idea out there.

I know the knock sensor is normally the dreaded "code 26" when it is grounded out, but what is correct function if it does detect a knock? On a car, it adjusts a timing to try and protect the engine, I believe it retards the timing which reduces power/runs hot, etc.. Could you have an intermittent bad knock sensor and your ECU is trying to adjust? Just a thought that may have already been ruled out.

I would guess this is a sensor or wiring issue though. Every single time I have had an intermittent issue that presented with heat or water (rain) it was a bad sensor or connector. I had a Ford Expedition I got cheap from a dealership that would miss every so often (most noticeable on the highway). It did not have any stored or pending codes. I basically ran a garden hose on the engine/electronics until the miss became constant, which forced it to log a code. It turned out to be a cracked ignition coil that would function fine until hot.

Good luck!
Ryan
Click to expand...

Thanks for your comment. I have no FI codes but never looked directly at that part. I'm soon laying 'Ol Silver to rest very soon for winter. I'll mark it down for next spring inspection if needed.

And again thanks for your comment.
 
if this was an old points and rotor type ignition i would suggest replacing the capacitor. o_O Please dont forget to let us know what the results are! (next spring if necessary.)
 
diferg said:
if this was an old points and rotor type ignition i would suggest replacing the capacitor. o_O Please dont forget to let us know what the results are! (next spring if necessary.)
Click to expand...
Not old 2007 ST1300. I had it since new. Winterized last Friday and I will update next spring. I installed the new fuel pump relay 8 days ago and went for 2 , 90km drives amazing and looks promising, .. but I need 1000km for a good call. Salt arrived last Friday so......

Thanks for your reply.
 
Tdinova said:
I'm gonna replace the fuel pressure regulator and gasket. Valve will be here next week but the gasket is on back order til atleast May 20th .

Any one have a source,
Click to expand...

GASKET SET ... 6010-MCS-003
???

I found a couple places that can ship in 2-4 days for about $5.00 USD for gasket (no shipping) , but they are in the U.S. , vs Nova Scotia...

PartZilla and Honda of Houston (in Texas)
 
Today I cleaned and lubed kill switch. Yesterday I changed all vacuum lines. 5 and 3T all cleaned. Ordered new sprk cap and wire
 

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