Installing LED Headlights On A ST1100

[Rick Fisher]

Thanks - that's what I was wondering based on someone's experience.
And I'd say 100,000 miles is sufficient experience!

Based on the PIA (pain in ass) factor, they may not go back on.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Based on the PIA (pain in ass) factor, they may not go back on.

Once I cut the centers out, I could mount them with the headlight assembly in place on my non-ABSII ST1100 from the top.
But it doesn't sound like it's much of an issue either way with Paul's lengthy experience running without them.

 

[skinl19]

Once I cut the centers out, I could mount them with the headlight assembly in place on my non-ABSII ST1100 from the top.
But it doesn't sound like it's much of an issue either way with Paul's lengthy experience running without them.

Yes, I replaced my bulbs on a non-ABS 1100 just by removing the shield and plastic under it and reaching in. I cut the center of the boots and had no trouble reinstalling the second part of the bulb through the boot.

 

[skinl19]

I think the rubber boot is not necessary with the LEDs. The boot is necessary for the halogen bulb because water on a hot bulb will cause it to crack and fail.
I destroyed my boots many years ago when I was trying different LEDs in my failed search for something that would work.
I would guess that I have been running the last 100k miles without boots on. My bike sits outside all year long and is a bit ragged but loved.
Not a garage queen, but a workin mule.

When you say failed attempt at something that would work are you talking about the boots?

 

[spiderman302]

No. Several years ago I searched for H4 leds that would work in the ST. None were found.
So I contacted a OEM and told them how to fix their product to make something that would work.
The current versions of the H4 with the proper shield, correct led shape, correct focus was the result.
A long story, but now you can find good stuff from the rest of the OEMs....
I just turned the boat around and got it going in the right direction.
All the self proclaimed experts will still tell you that it will not work.......

 

[skinl19]

No. Several years ago I searched for H4 leds that would work in the ST. None were found.
So I contacted a OEM and told them how to fix their product to make something that would work.
The current versions of the H4 with the proper shield, correct led shape, correct focus was the result.
A long story, but now you can find good stuff from the rest of the OEMs....
I just turned the boat around and got it going in the right direction.
All the self proclaimed experts will still tell you that it will not work.......

Ah, I wondered. I was confused and thought maybe you were saying none of the LED's were any good. I had read the threads where you were going through the testing and I had installed a version of the H4 last summer based on your results.

 

[JJames]

I have done a LED upgrade on my ST1100. Did it by removing the windshield and the plastic cover over the headlight that gives access to the rear of the instrument cluster and the back of the headlight..... Pick your LED carefully and make sure they have a good cutoff line!

What do you mean with "cutoff line " Power cut - as in a fuse ?

 

[skinl19]

What do you mean with "cutoff line " Power cut - as in a fuse ?

I think he meant that the bulb is constructed to aimed properly and not a flood light or blinding oncoming traffic..

 

[Uncle Phil]

No. Several years ago I searched for H4 leds that would work in the ST. None were found.
So I contacted a OEM and told them how to fix their product to make something that would work.
The current versions of the H4 with the proper shield, correct led shape, correct focus was the result.
A long story, but now you can find good stuff from the rest of the OEMs....
I just turned the boat around and got it going in the right direction.
All the self proclaimed experts will still tell you that it will not work.......

And I thank you again for all of your work on this (and again for the free lunch when I was out your way)!

 

[JJames]

I think he meant that the bulb is constructed to aimed properly and not a flood light or blinding oncoming traffic..

OK ! I got the F2 's . For a moment I saw my beloved ST going down road like a Fire ball

 

[Uncle Phil]

OK ! I got the F2 's . For a moment I saw my beloved ST going down road like a Fire ball

BTW, you've got the prettiest color of all the ST1100 colors!
I love that blue but we never got it over here.

 

[Ron]

BTW, you've got the prettiest color of all the ST1100 colors!
I love that blue but we never got it over here.

Yes, I'd have a blue one myself. If I ever have one painted, it will be blue.

 

[JJames]

BTW, you've got the prettiest color of all the ST1100 colors!
I love that blue but we never got it over here.

Well Thanks !

 

[Ned in Utah]

Wow, what a chore, installing the F2 LED headlights in my 1994 ST1100! And they ain't cheap at close to $80 bucks for the pair.

I decided to take the headlight out so I could see what I was dealing with. I'd forgotten what a wonderful experience that is! Didn't count 'em, but there had to have been thirty screws, bolts and nuts, all different sizes of course that had to be removed to get the lense out. That brittle 28 year old plastic doesn't help matters. Man, some day I'd love to talk to Honda about fairings. I think a 4 piece modular design, bottom, left side, right side and nose piece with minimal attaching screws would work just fine!

After seeing what I was dealing with, I now understand the tab issue now. Why would Honda not use automotive type bulbs? When I replaced my Councours bulb on the road, I was able to get new one at Walmart. Instead of using an adapter ring, I opted to take my dremel tool and rework the tab slots. Could only do two as lower right tab sits right on the bulb retainer spring hinge. So I ended up cutting off the one tab and reworked the other two slots so the bulb would fit into the socket.

To get the bulb to sit flush in the socket I also had to remove the short 3/8 inch lip at the top of the socket. Now the bulb fits flush. I opted to trim the rubber dust covers as I wanted to ensure the thing got cooling air for the heat sink fans. I could never get the covers to fit around the new bulb decently with the wires coming out the top. It put pressure on the bulb and wanted to unseat them as the spring clip does not put that much pressure on the bulb to keep it in the socket.

At least I know what I'm up against now if I ever have to replace a bulb out on the road somewhere. I think I could do it, but it would still require removing windshield, two top panels and a bottom access panel to gain decent access.

Sure is bright! Now if it would just warm up enough so I could take it out at night and adjust the height.

Thanks everyone for your insights that helped me complete this. Let there be light!

 

[Uncle Phil]

Even though taking out the headlight is a royal pain in the anatomy, I think it is still easier than trying to install the LEDs in place.
I found I had to also make some 'adjustments' to get everything situated like I wanted.
But the difference between the old bulbs and the LEDs is pretty amazing.
Thanks again to @spiderman302 for all his work to get the manufacturers to produce ones that work for us!

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Why would Honda not use automotive type bulbs?

If you look at the headlight assembly closely, there is an opening between the left-hand and right-hand reflector assemblies. i.e. They are not two completely separate reflectors. Under the North American regulations this lack of complete separation means that this is considered one reflector assembly, not two. If I remember the details correctly, there is some stipulation in the North American lighting regulations that limits the maximum wattage of two bulbs that are in the same reflector to 45 watts maximum each. This is why the tabs are located at different locations than the standard H4/9003 bulb. It is specifically to prevent regular automotive bulbs, which at the time were rated at 55/60 watts, from being installed. The only bulbs that will fit are the ones with the correctly located tabs, which were all limited to 45 watts.

I could never get the covers to fit around the new bulb decently with the wires coming out the top.

I don't know if it is possible, but are you certain that your new LED bulbs are installed in the correct orientation. From memory, I was under the impression that @spiderman302 has often said that when installed correctly the wires existing the bulbs should be at the six o'clock position, as in the second photo in post # 7.

 

[Rick Fisher]

Hey guys, haven't been here for awhile. But wanted to get caught up. I removed my LEDs that that the mechanic that I bought the bike from had "tried to install". I had to buy a headlight assembly on EBAY to get the clips my bike didn't have. With the clips installed, and the right bulb, I've corrected my headlight problems! I bought the bulbs from Honda. Pricey! I tried to get bulbs on Amazon. They sent me the wrong bulbs. They said they would fit, but it the same problem. Tabs in the wrong location.
These bikes have duel headlights. Working properly the stock lights are fine for me.

 

[Rick Fisher]

Now, I to am disappointed that Honda mad a unique part unique for there bike. But I do not like "Frankenstein work arounds" to make things work.
OEM products are generally the way to go.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Been running LEDS for quite a few miles with the bulb adapters and no issues in any four of my ST1100s.
The lighting difference is hard to imagine until you see it firsthand.
BTW, the bulb adapters have been around for years and used by many folks in the ST1100.

 

[Rick Fisher]

You have 4 ST's?