Installing LED Headlights On A ST1100

Rick Fisher said:
Now, I to am disappointed that Honda mad a unique part unique for there bike. But I do not like "Frankenstein work arounds" to make things work.
OEM products are generally the way to go.
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It is not unique to Honda. It is unique to North America due to the regulations for headlamps. There are several bikes from different manufacturers that use this same bulb configuration. All of the manufacturers must meet the same North American regulations.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I don't know if it is possible, but are you certain that your new LED bulbs are installed in the correct orientation. From memory, I was under the impression that @spiderman302 has often said that when installed correctly the wires existing the bulbs should be at the six o'clock position, as in the second photo in post # 7.
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Woha, scared the bewilikers out of me ya did! About crapped my pants! I think I'm ok as my light is upside down on the work bench in the picture, wide side goes up, so the leads actually exit out the bottom. Man don't scare me like that! I don't know if I could take that thing apart again!
 
Rick Fisher said:
These bikes have duel headlights. Working properly the stock lights are fine for me.
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I thought that too until I rode next to my brother's FJR in the dark for a few hours one night. Man my headlights looked like candles barely glowing down the road next to his. I honestly couldn't believe the difference. Hence the change out to the LED's.
 
Ned in Utah said:
Wow, what a chore, installing the F2 LED headlights in my 1994 ST1100! And they ain't cheap at close to $80 bucks for the pair.

I decided to take the headlight out so I could see what I was dealing with. I'd forgotten what a wonderful experience that is! Didn't count 'em, but there had to have been thirty screws, bolts and nuts, all different sizes of course that had to be removed to get the lense out. That brittle 28 year old plastic doesn't help matters. Man, some day I'd love to talk to Honda about fairings. I think a 4 piece modular design, bottom, left side, right side and nose piece with minimal attaching screws would work just fine!

After seeing what I was dealing with, I now understand the tab issue now. Why would Honda not use automotive type bulbs? When I replaced my Councours bulb on the road, I was able to get new one at Walmart. Instead of using an adapter ring, I opted to take my dremel tool and rework the tab slots. Could only do two as lower right tab sits right on the bulb retainer spring hinge. So I ended up cutting off the one tab and reworked the other two slots so the bulb would fit into the socket.

To get the bulb to sit flush in the socket I also had to remove the short 3/8 inch lip at the top of the socket. Now the bulb fits flush. I opted to trim the rubber dust covers as I wanted to ensure the thing got cooling air for the heat sink fans. I could never get the covers to fit around the new bulb decently with the wires coming out the top. It put pressure on the bulb and wanted to unseat them as the spring clip does not put that much pressure on the bulb to keep it in the socket.

At least I know what I'm up against now if I ever have to replace a bulb out on the road somewhere. I think I could do it, but it would still require removing windshield, two top panels and a bottom access panel to gain decent access.

Sure is bright! Now if it would just warm up enough so I could take it out at night and adjust the height.

Thanks everyone for your insights that helped me complete this. Let there be light!
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I bypassed all the problems and went with a European, not UK, headlamp. The lamps fit right in (either regular H4 or LED lamps). Like Uncle Phil, I was going to pull the old lamp housing out to install the lamps. Instead, I installed the lamps in the housing, pulled the old housing out and put it all back together.The shipping was more than the part but it arrived in 2 days, from the Netherlands. I think it was about $140 USD total.
 
Ned in Utah said:
Woha, scared the bewilikers out of me ya did! About crapped my pants! I think I'm ok as my light is upside down on the work bench in the picture, wide side goes up, so the leads actually exit out the bottom. Man don't scare me like that! I don't know if I could take that thing apart again!
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Glad to hear it.
I didn't look at your pictures. I only read your text and knew that it wasn't right.
 
The nice thing about these LED bulbs is that they put a lot more light on the sides of the road too.
It is a win win, more light down the road and more light on the sides of the road.
Something that Halogen bulbs were not very good at...
 
spiderman302 said:
The nice thing about these LED bulbs is that they put a lot more light on the sides of the road too.
It is a win win, more light down the road and more light on the sides of the road.
Something that Halogen bulbs were not very good at...
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That was the difference I really noticed - on high it was like flooding the roadside with light.
Which is great when you are out at 'bambi roaming' time! :biggrin:
 
I finally did my LED headlights upgrade, today, on my ST1100.
It went very well, thanks to all the explanations found on this site, and thanks again to @spiderman302 for all his work and time.
So, yeah, last year I bought the Katana F2 H4, from Amazon, as well as the adapter ring for the ST1100.

Up to now, I still had the original OEM Halogen 45w/45w on my 2000 ST1100.
What a difference ! It's unbelievable. Even in daylight I'll be much more visible.

My ST1100 is a non-ABS model (so no TCS module), wich means I have more place for my hands, after I removed the windshield and the 2 plastic parts at the base of the windshield.

20220719_170134.jpg

A good illustration here, of those famous "pins" for the aligment of the bulb.
On the right, we have the old Halogen bulb, with "pins" at noon, 4 and 8 o'clock.
On the left, the new LED, with "pins" at noon, 5 and 7 o'clock.
That is why, on the new LED, for the ST1100, we have to cut the 2 pins at 5 and 7 o'clock.
In place, we will add the adapter ring with the correct pin position.

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I use the tip of an headphone jack that I happend to have on hand, to gently push that little locking mechanism. The ring plate was then easy to remove.
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Here, the ring plate of the new LED, with the adapter ring, ready to be put in place.
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Tadam ! The infamous clip didn't give me too much trouble. I have to say that I did spent sometimes, last summer, to study how it worked.
Clipsing it and declipsing it while looking in a small camping mirror was not too easy at first.
But after a while, I could do it with my eyes shut, having memorized the gesture.
Turns out it is more easy with eyes shut than looking at what I'm doing. You gotta use "the force", luke.

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At this point, I only needed to put the rubber dust caps where they go, behind the headlights...

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... and then, simply insert the LED, with the good orientation, in his hole, and push it until it clicks.

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Finally, I used two tie-wraps to secure the new wires (and transformer) on each sides (attached to the frame parts that looks like goat horns).
So, it doesn't block the fan, and when I steer left and right, nothing comes in contact with the new wires or make them move.

20220719_185945.jpg

After I took this picture, I pushed a little bit more on the fan on the right (or left side if seated on the bike). It was not completely inserted.
 
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I also put in the F2 about a month ago. I have kept quiet about it , because being this far north , it dosent really get dark in the middle of summer - hard to see what effect they have had . But tok a little test ride last night and there is a big difference ,even if it isnt completely dark . And the white light does give the ST a more modern appearance . I dident put the the rubber gaitors back on , as I was conserned they might block cooling air for the fan /fins , but they probably don't.
I am a little puzzeled about the detent balls / holes on the F2. The holes did not line up , so both the F2's could be put in a true vertical position. The detent holes were in fact not the in the same position on the 2 bulbs i got either. So the right F2 is twisted a little one way off vertical center and the left one a little off center the other way . ChriSTian ,did you notice this ? . Not that I think it's going to be a problem . It's not dark enough for a proper light adjustment yet
 
@JJames , before I installed them, I took the time to look at :
1- the positions of the holes (one every 45 degrees),
2- how I could turn the LED light into the retaining plate ring and feel the clicks (barely perceptible with the rubber dust cover)
3- how the cable feeding the LED should be positioned when the "tabs" or 'pins" of the retaining plate have the main "pin" at "noon". My cable must be exiting the LED at the bottom, or at 6 o'clock.

Even after I had put one in place... I had a doubt, and I finally removed it, to have a second look, this time with the LED going thru the rubber dust cover.
4- How deep the led should go, and when I feel the click of the locking mecanism (barely perceptible) can the fan exits and clear the rubber enough to be able to work. Yes.

So, once everything was in place, I twisted the LED fan a bit, trying to feel the clicks (meaning I was deep enough and locked in place), and then, make sure the cable was at 6 o'clock, to be correctly oriented,

For some reason, I have the feeling that one of the LED is not exactly deep enough. Wasn't feeling the click for this one, and it looked like the fan was out a little bit more than the other... but not much. But it was late, time for supper... and... I wasn't exactly sure.
I gave it a try at night. Everything seem fine. But in a few days, when it will be cooler outside, I will remove the windshield again, and the 2 plastic parts, and will look at this one again. Just to be 100% sure it is OK.
 
Yes , I it's coming back to me now . I played around with them on the table too. I should mention mine uses H4 bulbs to start with ,so no adapter plates ( I bought them ,after reading to many threads here.LOL). Spiderman said the LED leads should be at the bottom . I took that as strait down. But ,I can't position the leads strait down - and I can't position them alike either. so I think one has the leads at about 6.30 and the other at 5.30 -or something like that. That said - the 2 pieces fit snug , so not sure the ball has to be in the detent hole. I'll have to wait for the dark and find a strait stretch of road se the beam pattern
 
JJames said:
Spiderman said the LED leads should be at the bottom .
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When in position on the motorcycle, they should be orientated so that the wiring harness comes out of the LED lamp assembly pointing straight down in the 6:00 O'clock position to get the best light pattern. Have a look at the pictures in post # 7.
 
JJames said:
... no adapter plates [...]
... Spiderman said the LED leads should be at the bottom . I took that as strait down. But ,I can't position the leads strait down - and I can't position them alike either.
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Yes... @JJames , They should be straight at 6 o'clock. So something is not as it should.
Could it be because you are not using the adaptor plate ?
That is an European model... maybe it is different than our American Model.
And you have an ABS II ST1100... so not much place in there, heh ?

I don't know if it could simplify your life, since now everything is in place, and it is just a question of playing with them to re-orient them... maybe you could try this....
under the headlamps, under the "nose" of the ST1100, I notice this cover.
20220719_154310.jpg

Two screws to remove, and it gives you a bit more place to fit your hand inside.
You can remove that cover, sit beside the front wheel, and check it with your hand, to see if you can re-align them.
 
Seems to me that F2 are made for a euro spec fit - they have the right "socket" pattern. As you said -the first time I changed the bulbs , it was a little work , but now -it's easy . ABS question , - there are 2, 6mm bolts holding that electric board "thing" , it is easy to move it out of the way.
I am confident enough to say ,that the F2 are in place in the light housing 100% correct . They only fit right one way - and you know if you have got it or not .
I'll have to take one more look , but I don't think the leads can go strait down ,with the detent ball resting in a hole. I noticed this already before they when in. They can be reoriented , but the ball will not be a hole at 6 o'clock. Maybe someone new was on the job the day my F2 's were made . will get to the bottom of this. Andrew -do they use H4 in Canada ?
 
JJames said:
Andrew -do they use H4 in Canada ?
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No, not as delivered by Honda in the ST1100 or 1300. We get the same odd ball bulb as in the US due to the headlamp housing configuration on the ST's.

The North American version of the Euopean H4 that automobiles are equipped with here is designated a 9003 bulb.
 
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