Spline Grease

Joined
Jul 3, 2021
Messages
723
Location
Louisiana
Bike
07 ST1300 ABS
In January I changed the tires on my bike to Pirelli Angel GT’s and set the pressure to 42 PSI on the rear tire. While doing this I greased the splines on my bike with STA-LUBE® HI TEMPERATURE DISC BRAKE WHEEL BEARING GREASE. I have 8723 miles on the tires and I am changing them now. I am posting a photo of the rear tire to show the amount or wear at this mileage, to show in a sense how I ride my bike and all with no passenger or heavy luggage. I am also posting photos of the splines to show what is apparently no obvious signs of wear and no dry contact spots.
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226DE2E0-5000-488C-8F1D-00AB06E32BFD.jpeg92EEBCBE-67DD-4B61-AD83-9F29B8E169AB.jpeg90A4644D-2F34-4C43-AF85-8E5B4B9E972A.jpeg
 
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Take some Q tips and clean the grease off the female splines and inspect them for damage, as you would not be able to see any shelving or damage with that mess in the picture.
Just curious, is there any reason you chose not to follow the service manuals recommendation for paste instead of grease?
 
That grease is so low in Moly I can't even find the moly content online. Good luck with that. When the grease runs out the sides (like your ring around the rear end shows) it will last less than a tire change interval.

You should find an actual "Lube" made for spline joints.

You do win the prize for worst tire wear. Not sure how that tire wore like that. The only time I've seen flat spots down the center so bad the person had slid the back tire when they locked up the rear. Also looks like the pressure was way low at times.

YMMV (for sure less than normal)
 
You sure got every mile out of those tires! :) Almost 9000 miles is pretty good longevity too.

Sta-Lube has a moly content of from 1-3%. Seems lower than what we're "supposed" to be using according to mother Honda.
Honda still says that Honda M-77 paste is what we "should" be using though. :)

Another thread on here also stated that they used grease on their splines with no visible wear. Let us know how you feel about it once you clean up the female spline and inspect it, before you smear another heavy layer of Sta Lube on them. :)
 
Guess I'm an anomaly for the grease. I can't speak for the grease the poster used on his splines, but the only spline destruction I've experienced was with the original Honda 60% (or was it 70%) Moly Paste. It dried out between tire changes, became a red powder that ended up on my wheel, and destroyed my final splines on my Valkyrie in under 10,000 miles. I replaced the final drive unit and have used grease since. I now have that same Valkyrie with 202,000 miles on it without issue.
 
That grease is so low in Moly I can't even find the moly content online. Good luck with that. When the grease runs out the sides (like your ring around the rear end shows) it will last less than a tire change interval.

You should find an actual "Lube" made for spline joints.

You do win the prize for worst tire wear. Not sure how that tire wore like that. The only time I've seen flat spots down the center so bad the person had slid the back tire when they locked up the rear. Also looks like the pressure was way low at times.

YMMV (for sure less than normal)

There are no flat spots on the tire. The tire pressure was 42 PSI.

The grease has been in there for almost 9K miles. There is an o-ring which keeps the grease/lube in there. The grease on the edge of the spline is a result of removing it from the bike. There is no obvious spline wear. I don’t think you read the post.

In all my years I have never seen spline wear as a result of using good quality grease on anything. The recommended moly lube dried out on my bike, so I decided to use grease instead.

I don’t want to cause problems for myself, I’m just posting what I found.
 
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There are no flat spots on the tire. The tire pressure was 42 PSI.

The grease has been in there for almost 9K miles. There is an o-ring which keeps the grease/lube in there. The grease on the edge of the spline is a result of removing it from the bike. There is no obvious spline wear. I don’t think you read the post.

In all my years I have never seen spline wear as a result of using good quality grease on anything. The recommended moly lube dried out on my bike, so I decided to use grease instead.
I've told of the experience of using conventional motor oil as recommended by Toyota all these years in my 17 year old car I bought brand new. A lot of people suggested my car would blow up if I did not use full synthetic motor oil. Long story short she is still purring along at 233K miles with only conventional oil in the crank case. Now I have to put in a disclaimer here....last 2 years all I could find is semi synthetic oil so I used that as it seems conventional oil is no longer availiable in my grade.
 
That grease is so low in Moly I can't even find the moly content online. Good luck with that. When the grease runs out the sides (like your ring around the rear end shows) it will last less than a tire change interval.

You should find an actual "Lube" made for spline joints.

You do win the prize for worst tire wear. Not sure how that tire wore like that. The only time I've seen flat spots down the center so bad the person had slid the back tire when they locked up the rear. Also looks like the pressure was way low at times.

YMMV (for sure less than normal)
Looks like somebody needs a different tire pressure gauge.
That tire looks like it was seriously under inflated.
I've run over 5 sets of Angel GT's on my ST, and had to remove the curb feeler nut from the bottom of the foot peg to keep from digging into the pavement.
I've also carved holes in the lower black cowlings on twisty roads with lots of off cambers, so I'm guessing I'm pretty hard on tires myself, and I've never seen these tires wear like that without other issues going on.
 
When I took the photo of the tire it was to show the amount of wear at almost 9K miles. It was not inflated or mounted at the time.

I have numerous tire pressure gauges. This is my favorite and most accurate one. Most people don’t know tire pressure gauges can be off by as much as +/- 3%. I find it amusing when people freak out on here because someone is running 40 or 44 PSI and not 42 PSI as recommended by Honda. https://www.ametekusg.com


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Guess I'm an anomaly for the grease. I can't speak for the grease the poster used on his splines, but the only spline destruction I've experienced was with the original Honda 60% (or was it 70%) Moly Paste. It dried out between tire changes, became a red powder that ended up on my wheel, and destroyed my final splines on my Valkyrie in under 10,000 miles. I replaced the final drive unit and have used grease since. I now have that same Valkyrie with 202,000 miles on it without issue.

Others have sent me PMs saying they do the same thing with the same results. But understandably they don’t want to post about it.
 
But understandably they don’t want to post publicly about doing foolish things that go against what the service manual states etc.
:rofl1:
 
They actually make alot of ehp hi tac greases. We use them regularly in our industry for gears, grid couplings. Some are so tacky if it gets on you...you seem to never get it off....sealing the gears from water, dirt is the best medicine....jme
 
But understandably they don’t want to post publicly about doing foolish things that go against what the service manual states etc.
:rofl1:
We do that all the time. Who changes sparkplugs at 8K miles? Or air filters at 12K? Or even valve inspections every 16K miles? The trick is Knowing your machine by setting a baseline for maintenance. At least that's what I do.
 
Who changes sparkplugs at 8K miles? Or air filters at 12K? Or even valve inspections every 16K miles?

That'd be me.

I keep a log (on Access) and record everything I've done. It lets me know when things are due to be serviced - by date and by mileage. I'm not one to play Russian Roulette with our safety. I'll inspect and if anything needs doing according to date or mileage, I do it.

Except - spark plugs have a tried and tested lifetime beyond which they could fail - eg crack, burn out, fail electrically. My superior knowledge of such things is non-existent. So they get changed on time. But 16k is the interval, not 8k.

And Oil / Filters. These tend to get changed before 8K. I can usually feel a difference before then.

And Air Filters. Always get inspected. Happy to clean them and use them a bit longer if the dust is dry and it will blow out with compressed air without doing any damage. But I note from my logs that I have only ever gone over 16K once - and changed it out at 21K with a clean up in between.

Valve Clearances. Engine noises niggle, so I tend to check them on or before time - but I usually wait until winter when I can take my time without it getting in the way of riding.

Tyres - 5000 miles. I never ride if they have reached the wear bars. I once mis-judged how much life was left before a 2000 mile tour. I monitored them when they were getting close to the limit, and thought that I would still make it home. In theory, the last half mm should have done 500 miles. After 50 it had gone. I left the bike in Scotland, caught the train and went back with the trailer. It cost more than the price of two sets of tyres to do that. I only get 5000 miles from a set on the 1300. So now if I have already done 3000 miles, I'll be thinking very hard before using them on a 1600 mile tour. It's cheaper and safer to switch them out.
 
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I once mis-judged how much life was left before a 2000 mile tour.
Exactly the issue...
Proper, preventive maintenance guarantees a safe, worry free trip, whilst a small neglect can cause a big spoil and a massive bill in the aftermath...
We ride 15K long distance touring motorcycles but folks haggle about discount oil filters and pattern brake pads... whiskey tango foxtrot... :rolleyes:
Either while howling down the 15th sharp hairpin on the Stelvio, or when slamming on the stoppers and swerving around a BD cager on his phone: I prefer the safety and confidence of my properly serviced ST... no compromise there... as in aviation safety and reliability stand and fall with the quality of maintenance performed...
 
the top of the photo looks as though there's a small flat patch, maybe it's just the way the sand / dirt makes it look but either way it's hard to even imagine trying to pull off a hard braking procedure on anything but excellent warm dry asphalt with that tire. I'd throw it in the garbage [estimate] 3,000 miles ago. I wouldn't extend my tire life over my own to save a few hundred bucks.
 
Exactly the issue...
Proper, preventive maintenance guarantees a safe, worry free trip, whilst a small neglect can cause a big spoil and a massive bill in the aftermath...

Agreed.

But there was not much wrong with what I did, or the preparation. If I remember correctly, BT020s have about 4.5mm of tread in the centre measure new to the top of the wear bars. I had just under half of that left, which should have had plenty of tread for a maximum 2000 miles. I had also checked the tyre depth and compared the mileage covered with the amount of wear, to work out what I had left. There was plenty. In theory.

In practice, the roughness of the Scottish roads and ignorance about the nature of dual compound tyres was what caught me out - the harder layer in the centre of the tread must have worn down to the softer layer before it reached the wear bars - judging by the rate that the last bit of tread disappeared. I wasn't prepared to ride beyond the legal limit.

The outcome was not much worse than if we had had an irrepairable puncture. Except it was Maundy Thursday and there was no way of getting a new tyre sorted out before the end of the long Easter weekend.

But a lesson learned. Now if we are going on a long trip, if the tyres have done anything more than 2500 miles, I just buy new. Its cheaper.
 
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If anyone is interested in the correct moly paste, either the stuff that Igofar uses or this will last most of us 10 years. No reason not to have a can and it will only be used on the rear end splines. I have no interest in this company but it did get me to 330,000 miles on my ST1300 rear splines. The only reason I changed mine at 330,000 was I replaced the rear wheel bearings and did a full rear rebuild. (I bought a low mile Ebay rear for $90 delivered)

 
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