Oil filter recommendations

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I got a question thats oil filter related. how long do you let a filter set around? I have a filter that is a year old that I was going to use tomorrow on the ST. always kept in the box, in a cabinet out in the garage. its a Fram PH6017A not sealed (shrink wrapped). after reading the posts here I'm leaning towards a Honda filter.
 
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I got a question thats oil filter related. how long do you let a filter set around? I have a filter that is a year old that I was going to use tomorrow on the ST. always kept in the box, in a cabinet out in the garage. its a Fram PH6017A not sealed (shrink wrapped). after reading the posts here I'm leaning towards a Honda filter.
Depends on the internal components, like what the filter material is made from. But overall, there's no real short term expiration for a quality filter.

.
 

rwthomas1

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I think I like this WIX one best, for the price, and free shipping. But I’m happy to pay a little more for the Mobil 1 filter at Walmart also. The Baldwin filters appear to be expensive.

Numerous sources online show $7-9 per filter for a B1402? Granted when I buy filters I buy 3 or 4 filters for several machines at once. Splits the shipping over many units, and I hate not having the filter I need on the shelf when I need it. Then again I also have cases of oil, etc. I wasn't even a Boy Scout....
 
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Send an oil sample of the used oil to Blackstone oil labs. Or if you have a Caterpillar tractor dealer close by will work too. Then measure the results with your maintenance program. In my many years of fleet maintenance. There are 4 key issues that you can not cut corners on. Lubricants. Lubricant filtration. Brake and wheel end components. Chassis and suspension parts.
 
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When I was doing fleet maintenance I did filter research, granted this was many years ago so the filter quality has changed since then. But the requirement haven't
The main comparisons that the engine manufactures looked at was element size by square inches, micron filtering size and sediment capacity.
With todays closed engine systems sediment capacity is not significant, the micron filtration is pretty much standard from major filter and engine manufacturers and meets the engine supplier. The amount of media has never been an issue with proper maintained engines.
The only real failure that I ran into with major manufacturers was filters that had contaminants in the box before installation. Some of the filters had the media folded over where the ends met, some used a strip of glue to seal the media together. they both work well. The size of the spring at the bottom is only used when the media can't pass enough oil to supply lube to the engine and lets unfiltered bypass oil in hopes that it saves it. Which is why it is called a bypass spring.
The engine manufacturer all wanted you to use their filter. They all were fine as well as most of the after market filters. (As in the really cheap ones. I did have Mighty try to sell me ones and almost ran them out with a blunt object)
All filters let a small micron oil pass through as the engine manufacturers deem the size isn't detrimental to the engine. To fine of an element will plug the filter earlier than others, but most filters have enough sediment capacity to be ok
So with all things considered if you use a major name with a quality oil chances are fairly high that you will be fine no matter what is used.
That said I am not a fan of reusable filter because of the chance of contaminates introduced into the system by the cleaning process.

AND FOR GODS SAKE, NEVER USE TOILET PAPER FILTERS. (I said that as a joke as using them would be a joke)
heh, heh..... I remember those drop in filters and many DID use TP in the 60's......
 

rwthomas1

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heh, heh..... I remember those drop in filters and many DID use TP in the 60's......
Correctly designed, the TP filters work just fine. Commercially available bypass filters simply use a "manufactured" version of a roll of TP. Its just a cellulose depth filter, running at zero pressure. Tons of info on bypass filtration online.
 
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Baldwin has always been an awesome filter. Years ago, as in the early 80s fleetguard was a horrid filter, but even then they were addressing that issue, I am sure that was fixed. As for them not covering warranty they have to prove that filter failure was the cause. although the first thing out of their mouth is no. Just like the other guys insurance company. Sometimes it takes a lot for them to change their mind which leads to class action law suits.
Remember- Brakes and steering-everything else is a option.
Have not seen a toilet paper filter correctly designed, isn't toilet paper supposed to break down quickly after use. Have seen engines fail from them though. And no the manufactured filters are nothing like toilet paper.
 

rwthomas1

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Baldwin has always been an awesome filter. Years ago, as in the early 80s fleetguard was a horrid filter, but even then they were addressing that issue, I am sure that was fixed. As for them not covering warranty they have to prove that filter failure was the cause. although the first thing out of their mouth is no. Just like the other guys insurance company. Sometimes it takes a lot for them to change their mind which leads to class action law suits.
Remember- Brakes and steering-everything else is a option.
Have not seen a toilet paper filter correctly designed, isn't toilet paper supposed to break down quickly after use. Have seen engines fail from them though. And no the manufactured filters are nothing like toilet paper.
Cellulose does not break down when exposed to oil. That's why cellulose is a common oil filtration media. I a friend with a tow business that ran Gulf Coast filters (the old ones used TP) for years, never a problem, but you have to have a brain and pay attention to filter element installation.
 
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That is why you get what is called a "oil filter" Although every one is entitled to use what they want. Toilet paper is not the correct filter media, Chances are his filter went into bypass mode and supplied oil to the engine anyway. As the filter media becomes saturated toilet paper beaks down. This is when the "old" filters failed and plugged oil passages. The "cellulose" in oil filters is coated to not breakdown in oil.
Generally the filters work with micron rating and store contaminants by directional changes which cause the stuff to drop out.
 
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The cellulose in oil filters is treated to not breakdown in oil flow which keeps the filtering consistent without entering bypass, can almost bet that tp went into bypass mode quickly and kept oil in system anyway. Knew people that swore by putting magnets on the fuel line and even saw about a dozen clothes line clips on one. Goes along with driving while your tailgate is down to increase gas mileage.
 

rwthomas1

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That is why you get what is called a "oil filter" Although every one is entitled to use what they want. Toilet paper is not the correct filter media, Chances are his filter went into bypass mode and supplied oil to the engine anyway. As the filter media becomes saturated toilet paper beaks down. This is when the "old" filters failed and plugged oil passages. The "cellulose" in oil filters is coated to not breakdown in oil.
Generally the filters work with micron rating and store contaminants by directional changes which cause the stuff to drop out.
I'm quite aware that bypass filters have moved away from rolled filter media, that looks like TP. The old Amsoil bypass filters looked exactly like rolled TP on the inside, and they were in fact cellulose. The problem with that wasn't the cellulose, it was that the filters had a habit of "channeling" and reducing effectiveness. The bypass filter designs all now appear to use the wound style of depth filter. I'm quite sure this works better, and the added benefit is that they can sell you a new filter element.

From your posts I'm not sure you even understand how a bypass filter works....

You can test the "breaking down" in oil theory yourself. Take a piece of cardboard, copy paper, newsprint, and TP and saturated them all with oil. You will find out they don't break down, no coating required.

Well, were gonna have a difference of opinion here, so lets leave it at that.
 
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heh, heh..... I remember those drop in filters and many DID use TP in the 60's......
Yup! My old 54 Chebby 2door model 210 post with a 216 inline 6 babbitt beater. Meaning babbitt connecting rods versus insert bearings. Had the old red A.C. Delco add on oil filter pot hanging on the intake manifold! Nasty, nasty job changing the oil and cleaning out that filter pot. Pretty high tech. at the time.
 
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I hesitate to ask this of the group for fear of being ostrich-sized:
is there any benefit (or harm) in using the Lucas Oil stabilizer (syn or dino)???

Rob
 

Andrew Shadow

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I hesitate to ask this of the group for fear of being ostrich-sized:
is there any benefit (or harm) in using the Lucas Oil stabilizer (syn or dino)???

Rob
Quality modern oils are highly refined and heavily engineered. There are lubrication engineers (I forget what they are called) who do nothing but research the chemistry needed to make the oils and their additives best suit the environment that they are intended to be used in. Adding additional chemicals that were not researched as part of the original formula may cause no harm, but they may also reduce the effectiveness of the additives that are already in the oil. Not all chemicals play well together, despite what the marketing claims may state.

There are circumstances where a specific additive is recommended and beneficial to deal with a particular problem. In general however, if you are using a quality oil of the correct service rating and viscosity for your application, and changing it and the filter (if applicable) at the intervals recommended, these additives add no value in my opinion. The additive is simply adding cost with little to no benefit, and maybe degrading what's there in some circumstances.

They are like most vitamin supplements- they do nothing other than create expensive urine. The difference is that in some circumstances the additive may actually diminish the effectiveness of the oil.
 
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I hesitate to ask this of the group for fear of being ostrich-sized:
is there any benefit (or harm) in using the Lucas Oil stabilizer (syn or dino)???

Rob
,
The short answer is... I would not advise using it in your ST. Reason is, it's a pretty thick viscosity product. I'm thinking too thick for the bikes requirements. The long answer is it is an excellent product. And there are places for the use of the peoduct. I use the synthetic version in my 26 year old F-150 V/8 5.4 2valve daily driver. TBut, I also use a top shelf synthetic oil and synthetic media oil filter. The truck started the dreaded timing chain slap/clicking at cold start. Problem went away with the oil stabilizer . But, I live in Phoenix with brutal temps.
There's lots of addativies out there. Most are mouse milk and snake oil. Lucas makes some very good products that work as adverrised. Then there are other products that work as advertised. Sea Foam being one.
Disclaimer. I have no affiliation with Lucas products.
 
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